getting rid of a/c

hbomb · 01-22-2006, 09:38 PM

I have a 88' gt and am in the process of cleaning up the engine bay and replacing alot of parts with show quality parts. I got a alternator, idler, power steerig bracket kit and I am also getting rid of the air conditioning. I noticed that there is a black metal tube that goes over the lower manifold which branches off into the manifold. The rest goes into the firewall. Has anyone removed there a/c system completely? How do I go about removing the uneccessary hoses? I'm removing the heat exchanger too. What do I need to remove with this?

Jeff Chambers · 01-23-2006, 08:05 AM

Those black tubes running along the lower manifold on the passenger's side are your heater core hoses. You can pull them out if you don't want heat any more. The one that screws in to the lower intake can come out and the hole plugged with an NPT plug. The one going to the water pump can be pulled off too then. The hose stub on the water pump can be removed and the water pump body tapped for an NPT plug as well. Some people will just put a large rubber vacuum cap over the WP stub, but I've seen those crack and break over time so be very careful if you go this route. When you pull the AC condenser box from behind the dashboard, the two firewall fittings will come out with the box. You can make a nice aluminum block-off plate to cover the hole in the firewall and rivet it in place.

hbomb · 01-23-2006, 02:18 PM

Thanks for the help. I think I might keep the heater core just incase I wake up on a cold morning and find my windows frosted. Is there a book out there that shows you custom modifications like removing the a/c? Cause when I was removing the upper manifold, some tiny hoses came off and I have no idea where they go. I'm thinking that they might plug into the bottom of the lower manifold. I was hoping that I could find a book out there that shows where this lines go. Thanks for all the help that you have given me so far. When I get ready to install the damper I hope it won't be too much of a hinderance if I ask you for some tips when the time comes.

mpj76 · 01-23-2006, 04:23 PM

Sorry to hijack thread, but if the manifold is plugged, what do you do about the sensor thats screwed into the pipe? The small black hoses are vacuum lines. Probably PCV and evaporative emmisions canister.

Jeff Chambers · 01-23-2006, 09:38 PM

I actually relocated the ECT to the themostat housing, but if you want to keep it in the same location, then just use a 1/2MNPT to 3/8FNPT reducer and the ECT will screw right in.

hbomb · 01-25-2006, 12:01 AM

Not to keep bothering you, but is there a book that shows all these modifications. I would still like to keep the heater and when I start pulling hoses out when I remove the a/c, I don't want to pull the wrong ones. And off subject, but since you helped me already on the harmonic balancer......if i already have the timing pointer off and the old damper off, how do I make sure I have the new balancer orientated correctly before sliding it on....meaning, how do I know where the weight is supposed to be located. I'm thinking that it goes in the same direction as the weight on the flywheel. But I want to be more precise than just eyeballing it. I still have a little bit of a grease mark left on the crankshaft that shows the keyway. I was also thinking that I could eyeball using that. Any tips or any other way that is much simpler? Thanks. Sorry for going off the subject.

Jeff Chambers · 01-25-2006, 10:00 PM

No book that I know of, but the internet is a wealth of information. If you want to keep the heater, then don't remove the tubes and don't pull out the condenser box from behind the dash. All other A/C components under the hood can go. As far as the damper goes, it will only go on one way....lined up with the crank key. That positions the imbalance where it needs to be.

hbomb · 01-25-2006, 10:32 PM

Thanks for the help Jeff. When I get it done I'll have to post pics.

Jeff Chambers · 01-26-2006, 08:11 AM

Don't forget to put some rtv in the crank keyway in the balancer. Otherwise you'll wind up with an oil leak past the key.

Ieatcamaros · 01-26-2006, 10:35 PM

Jeff, don't you mean to put the silicone on after the balancer is on the crank? I.E. put the balacer on, put some rtv on the keyway, and then put the washer and bolt in. In the end, it is a very slight oil leak anyway.

Jeff Chambers · 01-27-2006, 08:20 AM

Nope, I always pack the keyway of the balancer and a very light coat on the close-fit surface of the balancer bore so that when it is installed the leak path is sealed. Nothing worse than being pulled out of the water box because of a fluid drip. Besides, who wants that oily mess under the hood anyways?

hbomb · 01-27-2006, 05:47 PM

That's a good tip. While it's on my mind, when you stated that you used an npt plug for the lower manifold what size did you use? Also, where would you recommend getting a bolt kit at?

hbomb · 03-04-2006, 09:07 AM

I know this post is really old, but how did you relocate the ect into the thermostat housing?

Jeff Chambers · 03-05-2006, 08:15 AM

Drill the housing and tap it for the proper NPT thread.

Coupe50h · 03-06-2006, 12:22 AM

good thread, because i have the explorer intake, which has no place for the heater hard lines, my sensor is rigged in there with some hose clamps and a piece of the heater tube, i would like something better than that though.

hbomb · 03-12-2006, 06:45 PM

I just found a reducer since I really don't want to drill and tap into my chrome water neck. Another problem I ran into though. Since I pulled out the a/c and all the pipes that go with it, what do I do about the 2 hoses that go into the throttle body spacer?

01-22-2006, 09:38 PM	#1
hbomb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 47	getting rid of a/c I have a 88' gt and am in the process of cleaning up the engine bay and replacing alot of parts with show quality parts. I got a alternator, idler, power steerig bracket kit and I am also getting rid of the air conditioning. I noticed that there is a black metal tube that goes over the lower manifold which branches off into the manifold. The rest goes into the firewall. Has anyone removed there a/c system completely? How do I go about removing the uneccessary hoses? I'm removing the heat exchanger too. What do I need to remove with this?

01-23-2006, 08:05 AM	#2
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Re: getting rid of a/c Those black tubes running along the lower manifold on the passenger's side are your heater core hoses. You can pull them out if you don't want heat any more. The one that screws in to the lower intake can come out and the hole plugged with an NPT plug. The one going to the water pump can be pulled off too then. The hose stub on the water pump can be removed and the water pump body tapped for an NPT plug as well. Some people will just put a large rubber vacuum cap over the WP stub, but I've seen those crack and break over time so be very careful if you go this route. When you pull the AC condenser box from behind the dashboard, the two firewall fittings will come out with the box. You can make a nice aluminum block-off plate to cover the hole in the firewall and rivet it in place. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

01-23-2006, 02:18 PM	#3
hbomb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 47	Re: getting rid of a/c Thanks for the help. I think I might keep the heater core just incase I wake up on a cold morning and find my windows frosted. Is there a book out there that shows you custom modifications like removing the a/c? Cause when I was removing the upper manifold, some tiny hoses came off and I have no idea where they go. I'm thinking that they might plug into the bottom of the lower manifold. I was hoping that I could find a book out there that shows where this lines go. Thanks for all the help that you have given me so far. When I get ready to install the damper I hope it won't be too much of a hinderance if I ask you for some tips when the time comes.

01-23-2006, 04:23 PM	#4
mpj76 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 158	Re: getting rid of a/c Sorry to hijack thread, but if the manifold is plugged, what do you do about the sensor thats screwed into the pipe? The small black hoses are vacuum lines. Probably PCV and evaporative emmisions canister. __________________ 91 Coupe: FMS 1 5/8 unqual shorty's, BBK off road X-pipe, Super Duty T5, Pro 5.0 short shifter, 2.73 rear, G3 alt, MSD coil, dist, no smog pump, oil cooler, 195K miles, 14 deg timing, 23 mpg city/29 mpg highway @ 65 mph.

01-23-2006, 09:38 PM	#5
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Re: getting rid of a/c I actually relocated the ECT to the themostat housing, but if you want to keep it in the same location, then just use a 1/2MNPT to 3/8FNPT reducer and the ECT will screw right in. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

01-25-2006, 12:01 AM	#6
hbomb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 47	Re: getting rid of a/c Not to keep bothering you, but is there a book that shows all these modifications. I would still like to keep the heater and when I start pulling hoses out when I remove the a/c, I don't want to pull the wrong ones. And off subject, but since you helped me already on the harmonic balancer......if i already have the timing pointer off and the old damper off, how do I make sure I have the new balancer orientated correctly before sliding it on....meaning, how do I know where the weight is supposed to be located. I'm thinking that it goes in the same direction as the weight on the flywheel. But I want to be more precise than just eyeballing it. I still have a little bit of a grease mark left on the crankshaft that shows the keyway. I was also thinking that I could eyeball using that. Any tips or any other way that is much simpler? Thanks. Sorry for going off the subject.

01-25-2006, 10:00 PM	#7
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Re: getting rid of a/c No book that I know of, but the internet is a wealth of information. If you want to keep the heater, then don't remove the tubes and don't pull out the condenser box from behind the dash. All other A/C components under the hood can go. As far as the damper goes, it will only go on one way....lined up with the crank key. That positions the imbalance where it needs to be. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

01-25-2006, 10:32 PM	#8
hbomb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 47	Re: getting rid of a/c Thanks for the help Jeff. When I get it done I'll have to post pics.

01-26-2006, 08:11 AM	#9
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Re: getting rid of a/c Don't forget to put some rtv in the crank keyway in the balancer. Otherwise you'll wind up with an oil leak past the key. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

01-26-2006, 10:35 PM	#10
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Re: getting rid of a/c Jeff, don't you mean to put the silicone on after the balancer is on the crank? I.E. put the balacer on, put some rtv on the keyway, and then put the washer and bolt in. In the end, it is a very slight oil leak anyway. __________________ The sig says it all.

01-27-2006, 08:20 AM	#11
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Re: getting rid of a/c Nope, I always pack the keyway of the balancer and a very light coat on the close-fit surface of the balancer bore so that when it is installed the leak path is sealed. Nothing worse than being pulled out of the water box because of a fluid drip. Besides, who wants that oily mess under the hood anyways? __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

01-27-2006, 05:47 PM	#12
hbomb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 47	Re: getting rid of a/c That's a good tip. While it's on my mind, when you stated that you used an npt plug for the lower manifold what size did you use? Also, where would you recommend getting a bolt kit at?

03-04-2006, 09:07 AM	#13
hbomb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 47	Re: getting rid of a/c I know this post is really old, but how did you relocate the ect into the thermostat housing?

03-05-2006, 08:15 AM	#14
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Re: getting rid of a/c Drill the housing and tap it for the proper NPT thread. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

03-06-2006, 12:22 AM	#15
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	Re: getting rid of a/c good thread, because i have the explorer intake, which has no place for the heater hard lines, my sensor is rigged in there with some hose clamps and a piece of the heater tube, i would like something better than that though. __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

03-12-2006, 06:45 PM	#16
hbomb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 47	Re: getting rid of a/c I just found a reducer since I really don't want to drill and tap into my chrome water neck. Another problem I ran into though. Since I pulled out the a/c and all the pipes that go with it, what do I do about the 2 hoses that go into the throttle body spacer? Last edited by hbomb; 03-12-2006 at 10:27 PM..