When should I change my timing chain?

thiagoGT88 · 11-04-2002, 07:54 PM

When should I change my timing chain? It's a 88 GT 5.0

brooksgnm · 11-05-2002, 04:59 PM

Well that all depends, is it a bone stock daily driver, high or low miles, going to get a cam? Basically if it's just a daily driver don't worry too much about it until the motor goes south, but if you are going to modify at all, put it in when you do a cam swap. Don't be surprised if your old one has quite a bit of slack in it, it's not all that uncommon.

Maroon 5.0 LX · 11-05-2002, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by thiagoGT88
When should I change my timing chain? It's a 88 GT 5.0

Unless you're running the heck out of your engine, you'll probably never need a timing chain. Under normal use, very seldom does a timing chain go bad.

PKRWUD · 11-05-2002, 05:42 PM

I'm sorry, guys, but I totally disagree. A timing chain has measurable wear after less than 5k miles. Stock or built, babied or trashed, any 5.0 will have a noticible improvement by changing the timing set at 100k miles. I've always done my vehicles at 75k miles, or any time the gears are exposed (kinda like installing a new clutch every time the tranny is out).

An engine may run for 300k miles or more on the original chain and gears, but why? It could go that long on the original plugs, too, but again, why?

Easy, cheap job, with good results.

I say change it no later than 100k miles.

Take care,
ÅChris

Chevyguy · 11-06-2002, 11:53 AM

My stang has 135,000 miles and when I changed the oil pan gasket last month I stuck my finger up and felt the slack on the timing chain. Fairly decent amount of slack, nice to see the factory chain is a double roller, not the scary link chain my chevy had. Not sure if I want to tear into it just to change the chain, though as Chris said, that amount of stretch can effect the timing, and cam timing too (duh)

If I did expose the chain, I would be too tempted to do a cam swap as well. I know everyone says just keep the stocker, but heck MORE POWER is GOOD

PKRWUD · 11-06-2002, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Chevyguy
If I did expose the chain, I would be too tempted to do a cam swap as well.

It's a vicious circle, isn't it!

Take care,
ÅChris

Falcons Talon · 11-06-2002, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by brooksgnm
if it's just a daily driver don't worry too much about it until the motor goes south

Or a water pump stud breaks off in the block!!!

jim_howard_pdx · 11-07-2002, 03:10 AM

Most tech bulletins say to replace your timing chain a minimum of every 100,000 miles.

I bought a Cloyes true roller street set up. It allows you to run the cam straight up, 4 degrees advanced (more low torque) or 4 degrees retarded ( more horsepower at high rpms). $59.00.

Now I just replace the chain anytime the timing cover comes off. Chains run $17.95.

On any chain there is the side from the crank to the cam, it should have NO SLACK to very minimal slack, on the back side there will often be about 1/2 inch of slack. This is normal.

If the chain breaks, the valves stay open, the pistons collide, things bend and break.......NO FUN.

$17.95 every 100,000 miles is like an oil change.....

Just something to think about.....

jim_howard_pdx · 11-07-2002, 03:14 AM

Camshafts...... yummmmy

I have two in my garage. What are you looking for? One is good for about .08 hp per cubic inch, the other is good for .09 hp per cubic inch. One is the HO/351W pattern and the other is a 289/302 pattern.

Use the 351W pattern on any new cams you buy. Smoother power production, less crank stress. All very good things.

briand · 11-07-2002, 01:36 PM

i would also recommend the timing chain change at 100,000 miles. very easy job and the result is a motor that feels more respnsonsive and also peace of mind

USMC302 · 11-07-2002, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Or a water pump stud breaks off in the block!!!

\
I hate it when that happens,I've had it happen in 2 of 7 mustangs I've had. The water pump bolts are just real weak from Ford and when they rust, well, game over. Thank God for easy outs! I have changed timing chains when I do cam swaps everytime.

Speaking of changes, what kind of fluid should be used in a gear oil change? What is recommended?

Chevyguy · 11-07-2002, 02:11 PM

Jim one word of advice, the chain and gears are really supposed to be replaced together, as they tend to form wear patterns between the teeth and the chain.

Frequent chain changing is not really a bad thing. Many racers use the cheapo stock chains on their Chevys and just replace them every few runs, the cheapo Cloyes double row non true roller chain and gears costs a Whopping $17.00 for a Chevy SB and even has 3 keyways.

Hmm I just changed my WP thank god no bolts broke, the few real long ones must be the ones that break eh?? Steel bolts in a Aluminum cover = stuck bolts I guess

ChunkFunky · 11-08-2002, 03:33 PM

I started to replace my water pump out in my driveway.. a seemingly simple job.. but my problem was my longest bolt seized inside the water pump ... so it was actulay freee from teh block, but the only way I could get the water pump off would be to take off all teh brackets for EVERYTHING and spin the whole pump off... I ended up sedning it to a local mechanic who spent a hour with a torch basicaly cutting the water pump off the bolt... that aluminun sucks...
-as

11-04-2002, 07:54 PM	#1
thiagoGT88 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: New York Posts: 23	When should I change my timing chain? When should I change my timing chain? It's a 88 GT 5.0 Last edited by thiagoGT88; 11-04-2002 at 10:56 PM..

11-05-2002, 04:59 PM	#2
brooksgnm Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Union, Ohio, USA Posts: 582	Well that all depends, is it a bone stock daily driver, high or low miles, going to get a cam? Basically if it's just a daily driver don't worry too much about it until the motor goes south, but if you are going to modify at all, put it in when you do a cam swap. Don't be surprised if your old one has quite a bit of slack in it, it's not all that uncommon. __________________ 85 GT/SVO project underway!

11-05-2002, 05:42 PM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I'm sorry, guys, but I totally disagree. A timing chain has measurable wear after less than 5k miles. Stock or built, babied or trashed, any 5.0 will have a noticible improvement by changing the timing set at 100k miles. I've always done my vehicles at 75k miles, or any time the gears are exposed (kinda like installing a new clutch every time the tranny is out). An engine may run for 300k miles or more on the original chain and gears, but why? It could go that long on the original plugs, too, but again, why? Easy, cheap job, with good results. I say change it no later than 100k miles. Take care, ÅChris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

11-06-2002, 11:53 AM	#5
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	My stang has 135,000 miles and when I changed the oil pan gasket last month I stuck my finger up and felt the slack on the timing chain. Fairly decent amount of slack, nice to see the factory chain is a double roller, not the scary link chain my chevy had. Not sure if I want to tear into it just to change the chain, though as Chris said, that amount of stretch can effect the timing, and cam timing too (duh) If I did expose the chain, I would be too tempted to do a cam swap as well. I know everyone says just keep the stocker, but heck MORE POWER is GOOD __________________ 2001 Crown Vic Maurader Airbox/MAF, DR chip Edel IAS shocks Single exhaust :wtf: 93 P-71 Vic interceptor Backup car now 90 5.0 LX Notch SOLD 74 Chevy Laguna type S-3 454 under construction Currently apart undergoing bodywork.

11-07-2002, 03:10 AM	#8
jim_howard_pdx Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 247	Most tech bulletins say to replace your timing chain a minimum of every 100,000 miles. I bought a Cloyes true roller street set up. It allows you to run the cam straight up, 4 degrees advanced (more low torque) or 4 degrees retarded ( more horsepower at high rpms). $59.00. Now I just replace the chain anytime the timing cover comes off. Chains run $17.95. On any chain there is the side from the crank to the cam, it should have NO SLACK to very minimal slack, on the back side there will often be about 1/2 inch of slack. This is normal. If the chain breaks, the valves stay open, the pistons collide, things bend and break.......NO FUN. $17.95 every 100,000 miles is like an oil change..... Just something to think about..... __________________ 1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi

11-07-2002, 03:14 AM	#9
jim_howard_pdx Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 247	Camshafts...... yummmmy I have two in my garage. What are you looking for? One is good for about .08 hp per cubic inch, the other is good for .09 hp per cubic inch. One is the HO/351W pattern and the other is a 289/302 pattern. Use the 351W pattern on any new cams you buy. Smoother power production, less crank stress. All very good things. __________________ 1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi

11-07-2002, 01:36 PM	#10
briand Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Jackson, LA Posts: 264	i would also recommend the timing chain change at 100,000 miles. very easy job and the result is a motor that feels more respnsonsive and also peace of mind __________________ GT-40X heads(58cc), Cobra upper and lower, 75 mm Bullet, Moroso fenderwell induction, FRPP 65mm TB, 24# injectors, black magic electric fan, phenolic spacer, 1.7 crane cobra roller rockers, crane 2031, BBK 1 5/8 equal length hearders, 2.5 inch off road pipe, 2.5 flowmaster catback, FMS 3.55 gears, T5-Z transmission, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, svo heavy duty clutch, mcleod bullet proff bellhousing, BBK adjustable cluth quadrant, hurst billet shifter, lakewood subframes, BBK strut tower brace, BBK 2pt lower cross bar, FMS 190 lph fuel pump, crane ps91 coil, FMS street pulleys, and 300+ race wires. All thanks goes to my wife sheri, jason, jeff, robby, my dad and all others you helped contribute. most importantly GOD!!!

11-07-2002, 02:11 PM	#12
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	Jim one word of advice, the chain and gears are really supposed to be replaced together, as they tend to form wear patterns between the teeth and the chain. Frequent chain changing is not really a bad thing. Many racers use the cheapo stock chains on their Chevys and just replace them every few runs, the cheapo Cloyes double row non true roller chain and gears costs a Whopping $17.00 for a Chevy SB and even has 3 keyways. Hmm I just changed my WP thank god no bolts broke, the few real long ones must be the ones that break eh?? Steel bolts in a Aluminum cover = stuck bolts I guess __________________ 2001 Crown Vic Maurader Airbox/MAF, DR chip Edel IAS shocks Single exhaust :wtf: 93 P-71 Vic interceptor Backup car now 90 5.0 LX Notch SOLD 74 Chevy Laguna type S-3 454 under construction Currently apart undergoing bodywork.

11-08-2002, 03:33 PM	#13
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	I started to replace my water pump out in my driveway.. a seemingly simple job.. but my problem was my longest bolt seized inside the water pump ... so it was actulay freee from teh block, but the only way I could get the water pump off would be to take off all teh brackets for EVERYTHING and spin the whole pump off... I ended up sedning it to a local mechanic who spent a hour with a torch basicaly cutting the water pump off the bolt... that aluminun sucks... -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

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