Won't Crank until cool? :(

[HoodStrype]

Hey guys I've had this problem since October and I'm at my wit's end...

After driving my stang for about 20 or 30 minutes, once it's turned off, it will crank but not turn over again. After a few hours, it will crank. Twice it wouldn't crank and after 5 min it cranked again. WTF??? Usually, after about 20-30 minutes of driving it will start to hesitate somewhat. It's died on me a couple of times as well. I'll try to list everything I've tried:

I've changed the
*distributor
*dizzy cap
*rotar
*battery
*alternator
*tps
*Idle air bypass
*plugs
*control module
*coil twice
*starter solonoid
*unhooked and rehooked up msd 6al (still died or wouldn't start with or without it)
*checked timing 3 times (13*)
*checked for spark after coil (I think it was mostly successful)
*Fuel Pump always primes
*installed Fuel Pressure Guage on rail... getting 39psi at idle
*fixed all vacuum lines (still a high pitched noise coming from lower intake)

I have no idea what to do next. I've spent all of my money on this thing and I can't even drive it. Plus my clutch just went out last week so I can't drive it again to fix the problem... ugh.

Also, I think it was coincidence, but it didn't start this problem until I put a 1" spacer between the u/l intake.

I'm so lost now, any help would have me driving my car for the first time since I bought it last July- thanks

[mpj76]

Are you getting fuel AND spark IMMEDIATELY AFTER the problem starts? Seems like its electrical and only acts up after a bump in the road jars something loose or the expansion of metal from heat moves something slightly to cause an electrical problem. Sounds like its affecting every cylinder at the same time. Make sure you're getting power to the injectors and check that fuel is actually getting sprayed into the cylinders. Just because you can hear your pump priming the system doesn't mean fuel is squirting.

[Ieatcamaros]

What's the condition of the ground strap from the firewall to the back of the head?

[Rev]

Sounds like heat soak to the starter motor to me, maybe on a weak starter motor. Also as the starter motor ages a little, the first signs of weakness for me is the slow hot start. That's usually when I go back to AutoZone for my 10th or more lifetime replacement (LOL) for the starter motor. A fresh one always cranks fast, cold or hot.

Rev

[Hozer 88GTConv]

any codes?

[HoodStrype]

I don't know the condition of the Ground Strap, but I did add another ground from the head to the swaybar hookup (even though no swaybar)

The fuel pressure is reading 39 when it won't start, but I'll check the voltage to the injectors tomorrow, problem is it might not matter since I can't recreate the problem right now w/o replacing the clutch. I can't replace it til it warms up outside.

The starter sounds fine, it doesn't bog down or anything. This is really starting to worry me.

Does anyone know if the Computer or the Ignition Switch could cause this? The new ground I put on, does it matter that the swaybar isn't there? I've replaced a few wires around the solonoid but that didn't help. I just hate knowing I dumped so much money in this car and I can't drive it- the wife's gonna kill me guys!!!

Thanks for your help so far, every bit of help could get me going. The clutch position sensor (deal connected to clutch pedal) is disconnected and I just push it in to start it... could that be it? But then it wouldn't turn over would it?

[HoodStrype]

Oh, and no codes... I think I'll buy a scanner tomorrow

[Ieatcamaros]

I doubt the neutral safety switch is your issue since it turns over. You're right in that case. I don't think the ignition switch is faulty either, however, once I had some issues that were really weird and it turned out to be the switch. My car would always start but sometimes it would buck and hesitate in a sense. It didn't matter if the motor was cold or hot. My power windows were acting strange, the dome light would only work sometimes, and the the "key in the igniton switch" bell would only chime at certain times. So the only thing I could think would cause all that was the ignition switch. It's only $10 and pretty simple to change. You might need a pair of vise grips or an easy out. You'll see what I mean when you take the cover off the steering column and look at the switch. As far as the computer is concerned, I guess it could cause that but I doubt that too. I ain't much on fuel injection, I am a carb kinda guy. One thing, you might want to do a continuity check on all you wires leading up to the ignition module on the distributor. And one more thing, check the condition of the ground for you pick up coil and ignition module. I've seen that before too.

[1989GT]

I had a similar problem with my 89 a few years back, it turned out to be the computer . But I got another one really cheap from a friend so it all worked out. I spent a lot of time chasing wires though. I think what happened is some how one of the wires going to the starter relay broke and grounded out shorting part of the computer. But it did the same thing wouldn't start when warm but when it cooled it would start fine. I also had bucking/hesitation but only at higher rpms.

[HoodStrype]

Thanks Guys! And 1989GT you are the 2nd person with the exact identical problem I have. I have to change out the clutch here in the next couple of weeks and I'll buy the $100 computer, heck it's old and couldn't hurt wether that's it or not. I'll let ya'll know!