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07-10-2003, 11:09 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 4
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Smog Pump Deletion
What other items do I need to remove, besides for the smog pump itself, for the car to run correctly? I just installed gt-40 heads, b-303 cam, injectors, intakes, fuel pump, throttle body, mass air meter and others and am looking to get rid of the smog pump. I currently have bbk headers with off-road pipe. Will the check engine light come on?
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07-10-2003, 12:55 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin, CA
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The smog pump doesnt have any sensors in it... nor are there any in the system as a whole.... though you need to PLUG the back of the heads ... and any vacum lines connected to it's parts... and you might wanna crimp the tube on teh H pipe.. it wouldnt HURT really.. but might make some popping noises and might smell up your car
-as
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'89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit |
07-11-2003, 09:26 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: NJ
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Do I need to change the configuration of the belt in order to accomodate the missing smog pump?
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07-11-2003, 09:59 AM | #4 |
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Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
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Yeah, you will need to get a different belt and reroute it. Check out this attached picture.
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Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites |
07-13-2003, 02:42 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: EDMONTON, Alberta, Canada
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You don't actualy have to remove the pump entirely, you could however remove all of the plumbing associated with it and then 'gut' the pump, turning it into nothing more than an extra idler arm... it worked for me....
The plugs for the heads can be bought at your local ford dealership.
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-1988 MUSTANG COBRA GT (Canadian...eh!) -1987 Mustang LX coupe (2.3L) -1978 Harley Davidson FLH -2008 Harley Davidson Nightster 1200 -2008 Harley Davidson Night Rod Special -1997 Jaguar XK8 Convertable |
07-13-2003, 03:39 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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On this same note, what about cutting the pipes on the back of the heads and welding them shut? Is this a bad idea, because the dealership is gonna charge an arm and a leg for the plugs and I have a welding machine at the house. I am penny pinchin right now, and anything to help is great.
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
07-13-2003, 05:37 PM | #7 |
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The plugs for the heads are 6-7$ each at napa..
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07-14-2003, 11:05 AM | #8 |
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Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
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To plug the heads you can go to the hardware store and find a bolt about 3/4 of an inch long that is the right size and threads and use that. The hole is threaded. It's a standard size. Find someone's old set of heads and clean out the hole and see for yourself, just find a bolt that will fit it.
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Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites |
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