Stall converter and AFRs

Fox Body · 07-11-2003, 02:58 AM

Just need some quick guidance:

I'm planning on putting some AFRs and a 3-3200 stall converter on the '79.

I was told by AFR that I would most likely have to notch the pistons for enough valve clearance if I wanted to use the 185s. So, what I'm looking at now are the AFR 165 heads. How much of a difference would that make on my car.. any ideas? How much of a diff between using 185s or 165s in terms of 1/4 mile times? I would not have to notch the pistons for the 165s. I don't want to have the pistons removed. If I can approach 12s (13.0-13.3) with the 165s and torque converter, then fine. Best I've run with this car was 13.6 on Nitto drag radials launching at a measly 1500 rpm. Check my sig. Stock heads, and bolt-ons.

I just don't know if I want to go through removing the pistons for notching b/c then I'd just end up rebuilding the bottom end (new rings, bearings, etc) and a new cam and I don't know if I wanna spend that much right now. I'm sure if I did, I'd have a solid high 12-sec car. Depends on price, but I don't really see it happening....

So, what do you guys think about the 165s? And, anyone know of a reputable stall converter (brand) I should be looking at? I want to put one in really soon.

LX XLR8R · 07-11-2003, 10:48 AM

i got 185s and got a 4k stall.. not running yet but soon..i got mine from Dynamic when i got my C-4..great company to work with!

82 GT · 07-11-2003, 10:35 PM

Are you sure you really need a stall speed that high with a stock cam? The amount of stall speed normally depends on the characteristics of the cam. You want a stall speed that will be where the power band of the cam begins. Too much stall can be a bad thing because it will generate excessive heat and your throttle response will feel "mushy"
I'm going to be running a TCI 2500 stall converter with the Comp 274 XE cam.(which was recommended by Comp Cams)
You might want to make some phone calls for more technical assistance on converter selection but I would say you don't need any more than 2000 stall speed with a stock cam.
Make sure you measure the flywheel bolt pattern before you order one. There's two different patterns.
I hope this helps a little bit.

Fox Body · 07-12-2003, 08:21 PM

Thanks a lot for your reply 82GT. I like to throw ideas out here and do research b4 I jump on something. I don't exactly have a stock cam. In any case, I'm definitely gonna make a few phone calls and get some advice. I will note the flywheel bolt pattern. But a 2000 stall ain't gonna be enough, not for this car. Gotta look into it. Thanks again, I really appreciate the insight you've given. Later.

82 GT · 07-13-2003, 04:41 AM

Sorry guy, I assumed you had a stock cam because I read your signature and didn't see a cam listed.
What cam do you have(or will have)?

Stang Runner · 07-14-2003, 01:35 PM

Should be a cake walk to get in the 12's with the 165 on there

dragstang86 · 07-14-2003, 08:07 PM

look at my sig....i went a 12.57 with a head wind and that was before i put on my long tube headers and i still have a stock maf sensor and stock injectors with a restrictive unported cobra intake

07-11-2003, 02:58 AM	#1
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Stall converter and AFRs Just need some quick guidance: I'm planning on putting some AFRs and a 3-3200 stall converter on the '79. I was told by AFR that I would most likely have to notch the pistons for enough valve clearance if I wanted to use the 185s. So, what I'm looking at now are the AFR 165 heads. How much of a difference would that make on my car.. any ideas? How much of a diff between using 185s or 165s in terms of 1/4 mile times? I would not have to notch the pistons for the 165s. I don't want to have the pistons removed. If I can approach 12s (13.0-13.3) with the 165s and torque converter, then fine. Best I've run with this car was 13.6 on Nitto drag radials launching at a measly 1500 rpm. Check my sig. Stock heads, and bolt-ons. I just don't know if I want to go through removing the pistons for notching b/c then I'd just end up rebuilding the bottom end (new rings, bearings, etc) and a new cam and I don't know if I wanna spend that much right now. I'm sure if I did, I'd have a solid high 12-sec car. Depends on price, but I don't really see it happening.... So, what do you guys think about the 165s? And, anyone know of a reputable stall converter (brand) I should be looking at? I want to put one in really soon. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

07-11-2003, 10:48 AM	#2
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	i got 185s and got a 4k stall.. not running yet but soon..i got mine from Dynamic when i got my C-4..great company to work with! __________________ 95 undecided cubes, AFR 185s,undecided cam, undecided intake, and a 150 hit 89 "turbonotch" 2.3T You might want to hold on..i saw this on a cartoon once

07-11-2003, 10:35 PM	#3
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Are you sure you really need a stall speed that high with a stock cam? The amount of stall speed normally depends on the characteristics of the cam. You want a stall speed that will be where the power band of the cam begins. Too much stall can be a bad thing because it will generate excessive heat and your throttle response will feel "mushy" I'm going to be running a TCI 2500 stall converter with the Comp 274 XE cam.(which was recommended by Comp Cams) You might want to make some phone calls for more technical assistance on converter selection but I would say you don't need any more than 2000 stall speed with a stock cam. Make sure you measure the flywheel bolt pattern before you order one. There's two different patterns. I hope this helps a little bit. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

07-12-2003, 08:21 PM	#4
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Thanks a lot for your reply 82GT. I like to throw ideas out here and do research b4 I jump on something. I don't exactly have a stock cam. In any case, I'm definitely gonna make a few phone calls and get some advice. I will note the flywheel bolt pattern. But a 2000 stall ain't gonna be enough, not for this car. Gotta look into it. Thanks again, I really appreciate the insight you've given. Later. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

07-13-2003, 04:41 AM	#5
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Sorry guy, I assumed you had a stock cam because I read your signature and didn't see a cam listed. What cam do you have(or will have)? __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

07-14-2003, 01:35 PM	#6
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	Should be a cake walk to get in the 12's with the 165 on there __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

07-14-2003, 08:07 PM	#7
dragstang86 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: baltimore, md Posts: 220	look at my sig....i went a 12.57 with a head wind and that was before i put on my long tube headers and i still have a stock maf sensor and stock injectors with a restrictive unported cobra intake __________________ 90 LX Hatchback 306, AFR 165's 58cc, E303, 1.6 roller rockers, 70mm throttle body, cobra intake, bbk fenderwell, bbk longtubes, x-pipe, flowmasters, pullies, msd 6a, crane ps-92, stock MAF sensor, electric fan, No AC, No air pump, flaming river quick ratio rack C-4, 3500 stall, 373's, aluminum driveshaft SSM Lift bars, , sub frame connectors, strut tower brace 12.57 @105.12mph w/ 1.686 60ft before bbk longtubes (with equal shorties) ----------------------------------------- 86 tube chassis coupe - the trailor queen