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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 233
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![]() Would there be any gains to be had in porting out the stock MAF and making it have a decent size opening?? Wondering if anyone has tried this and whether it was worth while or not.
Will the MAF operate properly or will it screw the MAF completely and put me further behind then I'd be starting?? Just asking since I can't afford a larger MAF at the current time, and am searching for some cheaper alternatives to get some extra power from the engine.
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1989 Mustang LX Notch 5.0L, T-5, 1969 351W heads, cut & welded stock plenum, F-303 cam, Mac 1 5/8 full length headers, Cat'd H-pipe, 3.73 gears, Underdrives, SSM lift bars, E-Fan, 3G Alt, Custom Chip, Autometer gauges, Weld Draglite wheels , M/T ET Street Radials Best 1/4: 13.33@101.53MPH |
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#2 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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![]() IMHO, it's not really worth it. The meter in my old GT vert was bored out, and I never noticed much of a difference.
-Josh, aka the tireburner
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
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#3 |
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,001
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![]() Recalibration *may be* required if porting is done. However, I've heard through some channels that the maximum the stock MAF body can be ported is 61mm. That's it, and by looking at a LOT of stock MAFs in my time, I believe it. The custom Pro-Flo's are only ~$200, and they're 77mm if I remember correctly. Why not save the time and effort and go that way? FWIW, the Pro-Flo meters are calibrated slightly lean in order to maximize HP, or it's been so in the past. Granatelli's aren't bad either.
You could just get a Cobra (1993) MAF and call it done, too. ![]()
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Capri306, Moderator The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri 1987 5.0L Mustang LX Notchback 1993 5.8L Eddie Bauer Bronco ![]() |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 54
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![]() Boring the stock MAF was an option back when the only aftermarket meter was the $500+ Pro-M 77mm air meter. Porting quickly went out of vogue when cheaper $179-$200 Pro-M's and C&L's became avaiable.
I *did* see an article long ago where a bored out MAF beat out a Pro-M & C&L in a drag test, though. What boring out the stock MAF will do is lean out your mixture, as the MAF is now flowing MORE air than the EEC KNOWS. The EEC thinks it's a 55mm channel, when it is now a 60 or 61mm channel flowing air. I wouldn't bother. FWIW, I went FROM a 75mm Bullet MAF to a stock MAF on my car (GT40 alum heads/Cobra intake/65m TB/full exhaust) and lost only 4rwhp on the dyno. Not a big difference...
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Nelson 1990 Mustang LX 5.0 http://fiveoh.homestead.com |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 38
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![]() Hi sorry not really I reply but a question. Didn't want to start yet another new thread on MAF etc. so I thought I asked my question here.....was thinking about getting a bigger MAF and was wondering is it worth it on a almost stock 92 5.0 and if I did that should I go to a bigger Throttle body? What can I expect out of buying a throttle body or MAF and if I buy C&L or whatever make is it calibrated for my EEC already?
Thanks. |
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