Oil pan gasket change tips needed

Chevyguy · 09-20-2001, 01:52 PM

Well now that my valve covers and PS pump are no longer bathing the engine in oil, I am noticing a few smaller leaks.

Looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking near the back, some oil drips on the front Drivers side cat. This does not look like the rear main seal, ( I did not change it when I had the flywheel off, DUH

the only dry area appeared to be behind the bellhousing)

According to my Chiltons book this will be quite the procedure with the engine in the car. Any comments or Gotchas you guys can provide would be great. One obvioius one is the oil pump, I gotta unbolt it, should I just get a new one?? My pressure is ok but insurance is always good.

TIA

------------------
Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

2FastLX · 09-20-2001, 02:06 PM

You probably should just pull the engine out. If you're trying to get rid of an oil problem it would be nice to be able to clean everything up so any other leaks will be more noticable, and pulling the engine would make that part of the job easy.

And a new pump isn't going to hurt anything

------------------
Gunning for 12's!

Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

Chevyguy · 09-20-2001, 04:12 PM

Actually it's pretty clean now, I cleaned it to death after replacing the PS pump and valve cover gaskets, the whole top of the motor is clean, but the oil pan rear drivers side corner is wet now. The leakage rate dropped dramatically, after 2000 miles the oil level is still above the add/full mark, approx 1/2 quart low or so (5 quarts brings it well above the add/full mark)

I was hoping not to pull the motor out, but maybe I would waste more time trying to get the pan out in the car, the book says I have to move the rack out of the way, yuck.

I pulled the oil pan on my Chevy with the motor installed, and did it on my buddys 56 Big block bel air. Not too worried about jacking up the motor BTDT it's clearing the rack and crossmember

------------------
Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

John · 09-20-2001, 04:46 PM

I just did my oilpump 2 wks ago w/engine in the car, on my back even. It was kinda tedious but none the less its not that bad. The starter didnt have to come out and the rack is only 3 bolts (2 to hold it and 1 for steering shaft then pry it gently but firmly out, and let it hang around down there. You'll have to pull the plennum to jack high enough to remove the pan, which you would have to do to pull motor I beleive. Make sure you get a rubber one peice o p gasket ( I didnt and it was a PITA to get the rubber gaskets and cork gaskets to stay in the notches and slide pan up too) . anything you need help with, its still fresh in my mind. John

------------------
89 Notch: ASP Pullies,
K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trans. cooler,FMS 3 core , FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl, cold air kit, hooker shorties(jet hot coated), O/R H-Pipe, ASP solid mounts, Energy Sus. Trans. Mnt. BBK 70mm TB, MSD 6al, Dual elec. fans, 5.0 Firepower Kit, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Flowmasters, 73 mm MAF, cobra intake and crower #512 cam,

Rick 91GT · 09-21-2001, 08:51 AM

It is easiest to me just to pull the motor but that is a good bit of work. I would suggest getting the THICK 1 piece Felpro gasket, it is re-enforced adn will not leak. It's the best gasket I have found just ask for the THICK ONE.

I tne dto change anyhting while it is apart, like the Pilot Bearing, rear seal, just because it is too much work to take it all back out to change. If you take the oil pump down as cheap as they are, I would replace it get a nice Chrome-Moly pump shaft aslo.

------------------
Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!
[b]12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree

Chevyguy · 09-21-2001, 03:00 PM

Hey guys good tips so far, thick Felpro one piece gasket, and the hardened oil pump shaft, that skinny shaft is kinda scary to me. Does the dist have to be removed to get the shaft out, or does it just fall out??
Also the Plenum removal trick sounds good, better off taking it off first instead of struggling for a few hours not being able to get the pan out.

------------------
Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

09-20-2001, 01:52 PM	#1
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	Oil pan gasket change tips needed Well now that my valve covers and PS pump are no longer bathing the engine in oil, I am noticing a few smaller leaks. Looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking near the back, some oil drips on the front Drivers side cat. This does not look like the rear main seal, ( I did not change it when I had the flywheel off, DUH the only dry area appeared to be behind the bellhousing) According to my Chiltons book this will be quite the procedure with the engine in the car. Any comments or Gotchas you guys can provide would be great. One obvioius one is the oil pump, I gotta unbolt it, should I just get a new one?? My pressure is ok but insurance is always good. TIA ------------------ Frank W 90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links 88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks 74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage <A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

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09-20-2001, 02:06 PM	#2
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	You probably should just pull the engine out. If you're trying to get rid of an oil problem it would be nice to be able to clean everything up so any other leaks will be more noticable, and pulling the engine would make that part of the job easy. And a new pump isn't going to hurt anything ------------------ Gunning for 12's! Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

09-20-2001, 04:12 PM	#3
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	Actually it's pretty clean now, I cleaned it to death after replacing the PS pump and valve cover gaskets, the whole top of the motor is clean, but the oil pan rear drivers side corner is wet now. The leakage rate dropped dramatically, after 2000 miles the oil level is still above the add/full mark, approx 1/2 quart low or so (5 quarts brings it well above the add/full mark) I was hoping not to pull the motor out, but maybe I would waste more time trying to get the pan out in the car, the book says I have to move the rack out of the way, yuck. I pulled the oil pan on my Chevy with the motor installed, and did it on my buddys 56 Big block bel air. Not too worried about jacking up the motor BTDT it's clearing the rack and crossmember ------------------ Frank W 90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links 88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks 74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage <A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

09-20-2001, 04:46 PM	#4
John Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Ft.Myers, FL. Posts: 150	I just did my oilpump 2 wks ago w/engine in the car, on my back even. It was kinda tedious but none the less its not that bad. The starter didnt have to come out and the rack is only 3 bolts (2 to hold it and 1 for steering shaft then pry it gently but firmly out, and let it hang around down there. You'll have to pull the plennum to jack high enough to remove the pan, which you would have to do to pull motor I beleive. Make sure you get a rubber one peice o p gasket ( I didnt and it was a PITA to get the rubber gaskets and cork gaskets to stay in the notches and slide pan up too) . anything you need help with, its still fresh in my mind. John ------------------ 89 Notch: ASP Pullies, K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trans. cooler,FMS 3 core , FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl, cold air kit, hooker shorties(jet hot coated), O/R H-Pipe, ASP solid mounts, Energy Sus. Trans. Mnt. BBK 70mm TB, MSD 6al, Dual elec. fans, 5.0 Firepower Kit, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Flowmasters, 73 mm MAF, cobra intake and crower #512 cam,

09-21-2001, 08:51 AM	#5
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	It is easiest to me just to pull the motor but that is a good bit of work. I would suggest getting the THICK 1 piece Felpro gasket, it is re-enforced adn will not leak. It's the best gasket I have found just ask for the THICK ONE. I tne dto change anyhting while it is apart, like the Pilot Bearing, rear seal, just because it is too much work to take it all back out to change. If you take the oil pump down as cheap as they are, I would replace it get a nice Chrome-Moly pump shaft aslo. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! [b]12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree

09-21-2001, 03:00 PM	#6
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	Hey guys good tips so far, thick Felpro one piece gasket, and the hardened oil pump shaft, that skinny shaft is kinda scary to me. Does the dist have to be removed to get the shaft out, or does it just fall out?? Also the Plenum removal trick sounds good, better off taking it off first instead of struggling for a few hours not being able to get the pan out. ------------------ Frank W 90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links 88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks 74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage <A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.