Help aluminum headed motor has no power

wrathchild · 09-28-2001, 01:18 AM

I recently built a 306 with srp 10:1 pistons, twisted wedge heads, track heat intake, stage 1 cam, 70 mm TB, 76 mm mas, 30 lb injectors and a 255 lph pump. I also put a new clutch in while i was in the process.

So i get it in the car and start it up but, it wouldnt idle. Soi worked with it and got it to idle so i could set my timing and set my fuel pressure. I set the timing to 16* btdc and set the fuel pressure at 35 psi. Now the car pops alot. it will idle and rev ok but as soon as i try to move the car it starts to pop. I did have it not popping at all but I readjusted rockers. Before i readjusted the rockers it would let me give it gas but, had absolutely no power.

Can anyone PLEASE help me here i have tried everything. I dont have any disconnected vacuum lines. The only thing i can think of is on the bottom of the upper intake it has a connection that has three vacuum tubes coming out. 2 small ones and one big one. I connected the big on to a hose that come off the fire wall from where all the vacuum lines run to. The 2 small ones i couldnt find any vacuum lines for so i capped them.

I really need help.

1989_351W · 09-28-2001, 07:45 AM

Sounds to me like a timing problem, but not sure. try 12 degrees and work from there.

------------------
Michael Wigton
1989 351 Windsor
1964 1/2 Convertible

Rick 91GT · 09-28-2001, 08:01 AM

Are you sure the rockers are adjusted correctly? That will make it feel like there is no power if they are too tight, I ended up 1/4 turn on my rockers to get them set right. Are you sure it was at TDC when you installed the distributor, it could be a tooth off.

Make sure you have the right firing order, I know that is something simple bu that will do it, and bump your fuel up to 38psi it slounds like the popping is a lean pop coming out the MAS.

------------------
Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!
[b]12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree

myred86gt · 09-28-2001, 11:07 AM

sounds like retarded timing to me. ford
hydraulic lifters(roller or not) like to
be preloaded 1/4 of their travel. looser
lifter preload gives you a smidge better
bottom end and throttle response. this
may sound dumb but have you plugged back
in your spout connector jumper? good luck!

wrathchild · 09-28-2001, 01:18 PM

At the vacuum tree on the firewall are all 5 of the outlets used. If you are standing infront of the car the second one from the left is not used at the moment.

wrathchild · 09-28-2001, 01:20 PM

I do not have fuel pressure with key on and motor not running. What should i look for to cure this?

PKRWUD · 09-28-2001, 01:37 PM

Ground the lower right lead in the Self Test Connector. This will turn the fuel pump on.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

wrathchild · 09-28-2001, 01:42 PM

PKRWUD you lost me. Are these in the tank?

PKRWUD · 09-28-2001, 02:02 PM

The Self Test Connector is under your hood. It's the house shaped connector that you use to pull codes. Look at the end of it, where the electrical connectors are, and think of it as a house. You want to run a jumper wire from the lower, right side connector to ground.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

John · 09-28-2001, 09:28 PM

The vacume lines on the intake are brake booster (big one), fuel press. regulator (small one towards passenger side), and emissions BS (small one on drivers side), I believe. Also isnt the stock fuel pressure w/ vacume line disconnected 43 psi? John

------------------
89 Notch: ASP Pullies,
K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trans. cooler,FMS 3 core , FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl, cold air kit, hooker shorties(jet hot coated), O/R H-Pipe, ASP solid mounts, Energy Sus. Trans. Mnt. BBK 70mm TB, MSD 6al, Dual elec. fans, 5.0 Firepower Kit, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Flowmasters, 73 mm MAF, cobra intake and crower #512 cam,

wrathchild · 09-29-2001, 03:04 AM

ok i got all the vacuum lines right now. Got the car idling and running. It feels stronger than my stock motor at ahlf throttl but, At WOT it boggs bad. It even popped once on me in 3rd gear at WOT.

I have no fuel pressure with key on and motor off. I have no fuel pressure after i run the motor and shut the key off. I DO have fuel pressure while the car is running.
The gauge is good. I checked it on a friends car. This same problem persist with the stock regulator and the kirban adjustable so, i am assuming that the regulaotr is good. The only thing i can think of is the pump. Should a 255 lph pump be loud? It is quieter than my stock pump. Also i didnt put the pump in. A friend did while i was working on the motor.

[This message has been edited by wrathchild (edited 09-29-2001).]

PKRWUD · 09-29-2001, 04:41 AM

It could be leaky injectors, but I think it's definately pump related. It could also be a cracked fuel line inside the tank. You need to drop the tank and check things out. First off, though, you should clamp off the fuel line coming from the tank while the engine is running, and immediately have someone shut off the engine. Does the fuel pressure remain now? if so, it's an in-tank problem.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

wrathchild · 09-29-2001, 12:01 PM

Thanks man i will try that. I am going out right now to drop the tank.

wrathchild · 09-30-2001, 03:39 AM

Well it turns out it was the fuel pump. WEll not the pump itself but, the house attached to the pump. I let some moron of a friend put it in and he must have use a torque gun cause the clamp was so tight the rubber of the hose was coming throught the clamp.

PKRWUD · 10-01-2001, 11:40 PM

You have a house attached to your fuel pump??? Must be a big tank!

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

wrathchild · 10-02-2001, 12:28 AM

haha typo.
i meant hose.

NewAge 5.0 · 10-02-2001, 03:20 PM

My car pops sometimes too.. seemingly like when its cold like its not getting up to temp. runs strongs though just pops sometimes.. any help here is greatful too

------------------
SOLD THE 87GT, .. GT40, 70mmTB, 75mmBullet, 24lbinjectors, cold air induction, Edelbrok 6025 Rpm's, Inch phonolic spacer, tall FMSvalve covers, an SFI balancer, Canton 7quart, the shortblock... Lunati 51025 (224/232 .535/. 544 @112 deg) Ross lightweight pistons (10:1) Eagle H-Beams, Total Seal plasma Moly Rings, Clevite bearings, ARP throughout, FMS main Girdle&Studs, Forged Crank, of course HV-OilPump and hardened FMS shaft, Dual Friction centerforce, T5, and 4.10's Longtubes and 2.25 tail pi

09-28-2001, 01:18 AM	#1
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	Help aluminum headed motor has no power I recently built a 306 with srp 10:1 pistons, twisted wedge heads, track heat intake, stage 1 cam, 70 mm TB, 76 mm mas, 30 lb injectors and a 255 lph pump. I also put a new clutch in while i was in the process. So i get it in the car and start it up but, it wouldnt idle. Soi worked with it and got it to idle so i could set my timing and set my fuel pressure. I set the timing to 16* btdc and set the fuel pressure at 35 psi. Now the car pops alot. it will idle and rev ok but as soon as i try to move the car it starts to pop. I did have it not popping at all but I readjusted rockers. Before i readjusted the rockers it would let me give it gas but, had absolutely no power. Can anyone PLEASE help me here i have tried everything. I dont have any disconnected vacuum lines. The only thing i can think of is on the bottom of the upper intake it has a connection that has three vacuum tubes coming out. 2 small ones and one big one. I connected the big on to a hose that come off the fire wall from where all the vacuum lines run to. The 2 small ones i couldnt find any vacuum lines for so i capped them. I really need help.

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09-28-2001, 07:45 AM	#2
1989_351W Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Spring Lake NC 28390 Posts: 44	Sounds to me like a timing problem, but not sure. try 12 degrees and work from there. ------------------ Michael Wigton 1989 351 Windsor 1964 1/2 Convertible

09-28-2001, 08:01 AM	#3
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Are you sure the rockers are adjusted correctly? That will make it feel like there is no power if they are too tight, I ended up 1/4 turn on my rockers to get them set right. Are you sure it was at TDC when you installed the distributor, it could be a tooth off. Make sure you have the right firing order, I know that is something simple bu that will do it, and bump your fuel up to 38psi it slounds like the popping is a lean pop coming out the MAS. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! [b]12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree

09-28-2001, 11:07 AM	#4
myred86gt Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 17	sounds like retarded timing to me. ford hydraulic lifters(roller or not) like to be preloaded 1/4 of their travel. looser lifter preload gives you a smidge better bottom end and throttle response. this may sound dumb but have you plugged back in your spout connector jumper? good luck!

09-28-2001, 01:18 PM	#5
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	At the vacuum tree on the firewall are all 5 of the outlets used. If you are standing infront of the car the second one from the left is not used at the moment.

09-28-2001, 01:20 PM	#6
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	I do not have fuel pressure with key on and motor not running. What should i look for to cure this?

09-28-2001, 01:37 PM	#7
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Ground the lower right lead in the Self Test Connector. This will turn the fuel pump on. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-28-2001, 01:42 PM	#8
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	PKRWUD you lost me. Are these in the tank?

09-28-2001, 02:02 PM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	The Self Test Connector is under your hood. It's the house shaped connector that you use to pull codes. Look at the end of it, where the electrical connectors are, and think of it as a house. You want to run a jumper wire from the lower, right side connector to ground. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-28-2001, 09:28 PM	#10
John Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Ft.Myers, FL. Posts: 150	The vacume lines on the intake are brake booster (big one), fuel press. regulator (small one towards passenger side), and emissions BS (small one on drivers side), I believe. Also isnt the stock fuel pressure w/ vacume line disconnected 43 psi? John ------------------ 89 Notch: ASP Pullies, K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trans. cooler,FMS 3 core , FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl, cold air kit, hooker shorties(jet hot coated), O/R H-Pipe, ASP solid mounts, Energy Sus. Trans. Mnt. BBK 70mm TB, MSD 6al, Dual elec. fans, 5.0 Firepower Kit, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Flowmasters, 73 mm MAF, cobra intake and crower #512 cam,

09-29-2001, 03:04 AM	#11
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	ok i got all the vacuum lines right now. Got the car idling and running. It feels stronger than my stock motor at ahlf throttl but, At WOT it boggs bad. It even popped once on me in 3rd gear at WOT. I have no fuel pressure with key on and motor off. I have no fuel pressure after i run the motor and shut the key off. I DO have fuel pressure while the car is running. The gauge is good. I checked it on a friends car. This same problem persist with the stock regulator and the kirban adjustable so, i am assuming that the regulaotr is good. The only thing i can think of is the pump. Should a 255 lph pump be loud? It is quieter than my stock pump. Also i didnt put the pump in. A friend did while i was working on the motor. [This message has been edited by wrathchild (edited 09-29-2001).]

09-29-2001, 04:41 AM	#12
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	It could be leaky injectors, but I think it's definately pump related. It could also be a cracked fuel line inside the tank. You need to drop the tank and check things out. First off, though, you should clamp off the fuel line coming from the tank while the engine is running, and immediately have someone shut off the engine. Does the fuel pressure remain now? if so, it's an in-tank problem. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-29-2001, 12:01 PM	#13
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	Thanks man i will try that. I am going out right now to drop the tank.

09-30-2001, 03:39 AM	#14
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	Well it turns out it was the fuel pump. WEll not the pump itself but, the house attached to the pump. I let some moron of a friend put it in and he must have use a torque gun cause the clamp was so tight the rubber of the hose was coming throught the clamp.

10-01-2001, 11:40 PM	#15
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	You have a house attached to your fuel pump??? Must be a big tank! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

10-02-2001, 12:28 AM	#16
wrathchild Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: altoona pa usa Posts: 49	haha typo. i meant hose.

10-02-2001, 03:20 PM	#17
NewAge 5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Sanford NC USA Posts: 155	My car pops sometimes too.. seemingly like when its cold like its not getting up to temp. runs strongs though just pops sometimes.. any help here is greatful too ------------------ SOLD THE 87GT, .. GT40, 70mmTB, 75mmBullet, 24lbinjectors, cold air induction, Edelbrok 6025 Rpm's, Inch phonolic spacer, tall FMSvalve covers, an SFI balancer, Canton 7quart, the shortblock... Lunati 51025 (224/232 .535/. 544 @112 deg) Ross lightweight pistons (10:1) Eagle H-Beams, Total Seal plasma Moly Rings, Clevite bearings, ARP throughout, FMS main Girdle&Studs, Forged Crank, of course HV-OilPump and hardened FMS shaft, Dual Friction centerforce, T5, and 4.10's Longtubes and 2.25 tail pi