#1 Rod Bearing

tarmon8r · 12-31-2005, 07:08 PM

Has anyone had oiling issues with their #1 Rod bearing on a 393/351W stroker?
I keep eating the #1 rod bearing. This is the second one. see 1st pic First one took some crank with it, see last pic. Had the crank turned 10/10. Got new bearing and replaced the rod, it was to far out of round to fix. Had less than 5000 miles. I spoke with Tim at Coast High Performance. I sent him my orginal rod, which also was from CHP, and he matched me up with another rod since my rod was a few years old. However, since my motor was internally balanced and an older rod, they only had "lighter" weight rods instock. After some deliberation between Tim and my machinist, it was decided to "weld on the end cap" to get the rod to match my weight requirements. see pic. When I reassembled the motor, I double checked the clearances. Spot on. 0.0015
I checked all rod and Mains. Proper torque sequences. ARP Mains 88# w/moly. Rod bolts 63# w/moly as specified by the manufacturer.

Well, after I did all this, the motor started up easily and idled great. ran great. And slowly, the idle got worse. The motor would get harder and harder to start. Then a tranny bearing went. Got that taken care of, put the tranny back in, and the damn thing would not start at all. I did everything. Decided to pull the motor and put the 302 back in just to get it out of my garage so I can do the other things I need to do. This project has taken over year since the first bearing incident, then the tranny, and now after inspection again of the #1 Rod bearing I need some help. It does not appear to gotten to the crank yet. I WILL be taking the crank back to the machinist to get it mic'd for roundness and see what he says. As far as anything else I dont expect much help from him.

Ieatcamaros · 12-31-2005, 07:36 PM

I haven't had any trouble with any of my 351's in the past. Never had a stroker. I am surprised that it was decided to weld on the end cap to get the weight right. I probably would not have welded on mine. I'd be too afraid it would warp the cap. I know you said the oil clearance was right, but you probably checked it on the bottom (the lowest point of the radius in the cap). Did you check it in various places? The pics don't do much justice. From what I can see, it was definitely starving for oil. What bearing did you use?

Gearhead999 · 01-01-2006, 12:39 AM

Is the oil coming through the crank and getting to #1 bearing?? How about the pump?? Good shape??

Weld the rod cap on !!!!!! You have got to be kidding....right. The heat, etc has to be a problem all over that procedure.

What about end play??

If everything checks OK. Pull the oil pan, pull the oil pump out, pressurize some motor oil in a cylinder. Take the pressurized oil and direct it to the port that goes to the oil pump and pump the pressurized oil up into the engine and see what's going on.

You have an oil problem....and for some reason you're not getting enough oil to #1.

tarmon8r · 01-01-2006, 03:04 PM

I was reassured from CHP and my machinist that welding was not going to hamper the integrity of the cap since it is forged. They said it wasnt going to "look pretty" however performance wasnt going to be an issue. I really dont believe the welding is an issue because I had the problem originally.
I replaced the oil pump after the first incident. I wasnt going to risk it. Oil pressure is good. The motor was prelubed prior to starting. And pre-lubed again after it sat for a bit during the tranny fix.
The pics are the size the allowed by MW.
If it was end play, why would it affect just the #1 rod bearing. No other bearings are showing any issues.
I am beginning to think it might have something to do with the front "cam bearing" and restricting oil to the rod bearing. Does anyone have a quick link to an oiling diagram for a SBF? Thanks in advance.

Gearhead999 · 01-02-2006, 04:07 PM

Lubrication as read out of Ford Shop Manual

From the filter, the oil flows into the main oil gallery which is located to the right side of the camshaft. The oil gallery supplies oil to each individual main bearing, through drilled passages in the block. Passages are drilled from each main bearing to each camshaft bearing. Number 1 main bearing feeds No. 1 camshaft bearing, and No. 2 main bearing feeds No. 2 camshaft bearing, etc. The oil then flows through notches or grooves in the main bearings to lubricate the crankshaft journals. The timing chain and sprockets are lubricated by oil forced through a drilled passage leading to the oil pump intermediate shaft. Oil flows from the passage through a groove cut into the thrust plate and passes around the camshaft. It then flows through two grooves cut into the socket and is deflected onto the timing chain.

The crankshaft is drilled from the main bearings to the connecting rod bearings.

Oil passage are drilled from the main oil gallery to each valve lifter oil gallery.

The rest talks about the oil going up the valve train

12-31-2005, 07:36 PM	#2
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Re: #1 Rod Bearing I haven't had any trouble with any of my 351's in the past. Never had a stroker. I am surprised that it was decided to weld on the end cap to get the weight right. I probably would not have welded on mine. I'd be too afraid it would warp the cap. I know you said the oil clearance was right, but you probably checked it on the bottom (the lowest point of the radius in the cap). Did you check it in various places? The pics don't do much justice. From what I can see, it was definitely starving for oil. What bearing did you use? __________________ The sig says it all.

01-01-2006, 12:39 AM	#3
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	Re: #1 Rod Bearing Is the oil coming through the crank and getting to #1 bearing?? How about the pump?? Good shape?? Weld the rod cap on !!!!!! You have got to be kidding....right. The heat, etc has to be a problem all over that procedure. What about end play?? If everything checks OK. Pull the oil pan, pull the oil pump out, pressurize some motor oil in a cylinder. Take the pressurized oil and direct it to the port that goes to the oil pump and pump the pressurized oil up into the engine and see what's going on. You have an oil problem....and for some reason you're not getting enough oil to #1. __________________ "Support our Troops" Dave 1968 Cougar 2004 Thunderbird 2007 F150 Harley-Davidson, SuperCrew 1986 LTD 1997 Ranger 1992 Honda Civic

01-01-2006, 03:04 PM	#4
tarmon8r Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: manassas, va Posts: 186	Re: #1 Rod Bearing I was reassured from CHP and my machinist that welding was not going to hamper the integrity of the cap since it is forged. They said it wasnt going to "look pretty" however performance wasnt going to be an issue. I really dont believe the welding is an issue because I had the problem originally. I replaced the oil pump after the first incident. I wasnt going to risk it. Oil pressure is good. The motor was prelubed prior to starting. And pre-lubed again after it sat for a bit during the tranny fix. The pics are the size the allowed by MW. If it was end play, why would it affect just the #1 rod bearing. No other bearings are showing any issues. I am beginning to think it might have something to do with the front "cam bearing" and restricting oil to the rod bearing. Does anyone have a quick link to an oiling diagram for a SBF? Thanks in advance. __________________ 1983 mustang, 393 cubic inch stroker small block, victor jr heads and intake, gold race 1.6 roller rockers. comp cam 304, 244@ .050. .576" hydralic retro roller cam,lunati rods. block was o-ringed,10:1 forged pistons, speed pro fit fit rings, clevite bearings,msd distributor and igniton,be cool huge radiator, black lite electric fan, march underdrive pulleys, mildon deep sump oil pan, mac 1 3.4" long tube headers, 3" dr gas x-pipe and mac exhaust,ARP bolts. car weighs 2900 lbs w/out driver, sub frames, weld wheels, mickey thompson sportsman pro 26 x 10.5 x 15's,#8 fuel line steel braided

01-02-2006, 04:07 PM	#5
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	Re: #1 Rod Bearing Lubrication as read out of Ford Shop Manual From the filter, the oil flows into the main oil gallery which is located to the right side of the camshaft. The oil gallery supplies oil to each individual main bearing, through drilled passages in the block. Passages are drilled from each main bearing to each camshaft bearing. Number 1 main bearing feeds No. 1 camshaft bearing, and No. 2 main bearing feeds No. 2 camshaft bearing, etc. The oil then flows through notches or grooves in the main bearings to lubricate the crankshaft journals. The timing chain and sprockets are lubricated by oil forced through a drilled passage leading to the oil pump intermediate shaft. Oil flows from the passage through a groove cut into the thrust plate and passes around the camshaft. It then flows through two grooves cut into the socket and is deflected onto the timing chain. The crankshaft is drilled from the main bearings to the connecting rod bearings. Oil passage are drilled from the main oil gallery to each valve lifter oil gallery. The rest talks about the oil going up the valve train __________________ "Support our Troops" Dave 1968 Cougar 2004 Thunderbird 2007 F150 Harley-Davidson, SuperCrew 1986 LTD 1997 Ranger 1992 Honda Civic

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