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12-06-2002, 11:40 AM | #1 |
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Location: Massachusetts
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Best way to remove salt from car
I have to drive my car off and on this winter and I was wondering what would be the best way to remove all the sand and salt that will problably get all over it. Is it ok just to hose it all of? Because I heard that salt eats away at the metal more when the car is wet. Also, if I drive my car through one New England winter, will it hurt my car that much? Next year I will buy a beater, but I cannot afford it right now.
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1991 Mustang GT Conv: 58,000 original miles, 2nd owner. Engine: FMS 65mm tb/spacer, C&L 73mm maf, MAC cai. Drivetrain: Built AOD w/ Edge 2800rpm lockup converter, hardened 3-4 inner shaft, Trans-Go shift kit, B&M supercooler, FMS 3.73 gears & aluminum d/s, rebuilt traction lock. Exhaust: BBK unequal length shorty headers, BBK o/r h-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers. Chassis/suspension/brakes: Kenny Brown supersubs. The rest is stock. |
12-06-2002, 01:12 PM | #2 | |
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Re: Best way to remove salt from car
Quote:
-as
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'89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit |
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12-06-2002, 01:49 PM | #3 |
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The best way....hmmm
Move away from the snow!!!!!
Just kidding I personally havn't had to deal with it, but I think you are overlooking something. Even if you hose the exterior of your car off, what about the under carriage and the inside of the wheel wells? You will have to pay extra attention to these areas because I would think they see the most amount of salt. Sorry I couldn't be much help, but I just thought I'd point that out. Take care, Keith |
12-06-2002, 02:43 PM | #4 |
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Location: Massachusetts
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I live in the Springfield area. I do not think one winter of snow and salt will hurt a stang that much at all. Salt hurts all types of cars. As long as we take care of our cars, I'd say were set. I have a friend who drove his stang through every winter during the 5 years he has owned it so far and it is still in great shape. The undercarriage is clean and the paint is glossy.
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1991 Mustang GT Conv: 58,000 original miles, 2nd owner. Engine: FMS 65mm tb/spacer, C&L 73mm maf, MAC cai. Drivetrain: Built AOD w/ Edge 2800rpm lockup converter, hardened 3-4 inner shaft, Trans-Go shift kit, B&M supercooler, FMS 3.73 gears & aluminum d/s, rebuilt traction lock. Exhaust: BBK unequal length shorty headers, BBK o/r h-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers. Chassis/suspension/brakes: Kenny Brown supersubs. The rest is stock. |
12-06-2002, 03:58 PM | #5 |
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Location: Near Boston, MA
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Just for reference, I've gone through 5 winters with my V6, and haven't had any corrosion issues. Just be sure to take it to a good carwash with an undercarriage wash option every week or so, and you'll be o.k.
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'94 Cobra '95 V6 |
12-06-2002, 04:05 PM | #6 |
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This is what I do and I drive my car all year round and park it outside with no rust (well I cleaned up what was there when I got it and no more has formed)
1. spray paint the bottom 2. Rubberize it 3. Here's the killer: Douse the underside with tire silicone (the kind that comes in the pump bottle). It will make this thick heavy film form on the bottom of the car and it's great for keeping the water and salt off. Plus...you can squirt it everywhere. I have this stuff inside the fenders, inside the doors. Not a spot of rust
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
12-06-2002, 04:12 PM | #7 |
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Location: Massachusetts
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I was told by a friend that owns a body works shop here in MA that undercoatings are not a good idea because the rubber will slowly blend into the outer-layer of the metal underneath and will eventually even cause even more rust. This person is very well known and owns a very reputable body shop. He said its better to paint the undercarriage rather than undercoating it with rubber.
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1991 Mustang GT Conv: 58,000 original miles, 2nd owner. Engine: FMS 65mm tb/spacer, C&L 73mm maf, MAC cai. Drivetrain: Built AOD w/ Edge 2800rpm lockup converter, hardened 3-4 inner shaft, Trans-Go shift kit, B&M supercooler, FMS 3.73 gears & aluminum d/s, rebuilt traction lock. Exhaust: BBK unequal length shorty headers, BBK o/r h-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers. Chassis/suspension/brakes: Kenny Brown supersubs. The rest is stock. |
12-06-2002, 11:43 PM | #8 |
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Location: Fall River, MA
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I've always taken a weekly trip to the local high pressure wash for an undercarriage lashing with EVERY vehicle I've ever owned. Seems to work...
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'02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford! |
12-07-2002, 12:15 AM | #9 |
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Location: Massachusetts
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I've read that salt will not hurt your car if it is dry out. Its when its raining or snowing out and the car gets wet then the salt hits.... Thats what kills it.
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1991 Mustang GT Conv: 58,000 original miles, 2nd owner. Engine: FMS 65mm tb/spacer, C&L 73mm maf, MAC cai. Drivetrain: Built AOD w/ Edge 2800rpm lockup converter, hardened 3-4 inner shaft, Trans-Go shift kit, B&M supercooler, FMS 3.73 gears & aluminum d/s, rebuilt traction lock. Exhaust: BBK unequal length shorty headers, BBK o/r h-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers. Chassis/suspension/brakes: Kenny Brown supersubs. The rest is stock. |
12-07-2002, 08:20 AM | #10 |
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Location: Springfield, Ma, usa
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Chris, just take it to the "Golden Nozel" down the street and get the complete undercarriage wash every now and then. Espically with-in few days of a good storm, or driving after a good salting. If you take care of it properly this winter I don't think you'll have any problems, since you will be buying a beater for next season and that stang will only see this one winter. Once it starts getting warmer I can show you what I was tought at the shop, and have learned over the years about keeping the undercarriage clean.
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NewEngland Auto www.baystategearheads.com -91 Mustang Coupe, ex 4cyl (sold) -99 F150, 3" lift, 35" Procomps, Magnaflow exhaust |
12-07-2002, 12:31 PM | #11 |
Get down.....
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the BEST way is to wash the car with warm or hot water or rinse the car with warm or hot water if you can, but just rinsing it down and keeping the salt from embedding in certain areas would be the best. Body moldings hold the most debris, so make sure you really get under them.
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Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------ |
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