T-5= click, bang! smash! click click pop!....

Coupe50h · 09-09-2004, 04:17 PM

Man i get tired of these things, im ready to learn how to rebuild myself.
It is definately the input shaft, cuz i can wiggle it around, and it made a clicking noise through all gears, but it started in second gear, then got worse, and the car still drove home fine in all gears?
i pulled it out, and just want to know if a rebuild kit will come with the right parts to fix an input shaft? or should i take it to someone? my last one lost all gears but 4th, so this one not as bad.

any help would be great...thnx...

88fivepointoh · 09-09-2004, 08:22 PM

if the input shaft is gone, the trans is hurt, the fillings alone are in the bearings and gearing. I would get a tremec or a cobra trans. I hate the stock t-5s good to a point but once you start rebiulding there never the same. I have my 85's t-5 done 100 miles later totally shot, all gears.. what junk. 1200 bucks later. I would definetly buy a new one..

tmoss · 09-10-2004, 07:14 AM

Hanlon Motorsports sells the best video on how to rebuild yourself. Cost is about $20-25 and the complete rebuild kit is about $160-170 but you'll also have to buy an input shaft IF it's hurt. I suggest you buy the video, tear down the trans and see what's hurt. If the input shaft was broken you couldn't drive it.

crazypete · 09-10-2004, 09:01 AM

My input shaft retainer broke once. Made the car sound like it was going in reverse. Drove it around for 2 more weeks before the shaft decided to break on the highway. Not fun at all.

Dont those gears each need a preload? I'm pretty sure you cant just stack everything up. You might end up with something that works just as crappy as when you took it out, only in different forms of crappiness.

I say....buy something bulletproof. Something that is way overkill for your combo and then never worry about it ever again.

88fivepointoh · 09-10-2004, 02:52 PM

I agree with crazypete.. The rebiuld will be junk with problems.. A solid unit is best.

LX5liter · 09-11-2004, 09:31 AM

They aren't that bad to re-build. The critical measurments are countershaft endplay and mainshaft endplay/pre-load. Not to hard to do. I haven't seen the Hanlon video, but I'm sure it would make things a lot easier for someone whos doing a rebuild for the first time.

Coupe50h · 09-11-2004, 06:03 PM

Well guys, it came apart today, turns out, the input shaft is fine, the guy said the slack in it, was from the shims, or lack of, and that he could fix it.
But the second gear chipped some teeth, and then eventually destroyed the cluster, so im out 420$ in parts, thats because we are replacing 2nd, AND 3rd with hardened gears, replacing synchros while its apart, and all seals, then the labor will be about another 130$ but im fine with that, he said my t-5 did not have hardened gears, and that they went to hardened in 92 or something like that, but anyways thanks for the replies, also, it turns out i do have a steel bearing retainer, thats good to know

late.

tmoss · 09-12-2004, 09:06 PM

What they did in 92 is use a better mix of steel. GEars wouldn't last long if they were not hardened.

09-09-2004, 04:17 PM	#1
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	T-5= click, bang! smash! click click pop!.... Man i get tired of these things, im ready to learn how to rebuild myself. It is definately the input shaft, cuz i can wiggle it around, and it made a clicking noise through all gears, but it started in second gear, then got worse, and the car still drove home fine in all gears? i pulled it out, and just want to know if a rebuild kit will come with the right parts to fix an input shaft? or should i take it to someone? my last one lost all gears but 4th, so this one not as bad. any help would be great...thnx... __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

09-10-2004, 07:14 AM	#3
tmoss Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Saint Louis, MO Posts: 634	Hanlon Motorsports sells the best video on how to rebuild yourself. Cost is about $20-25 and the complete rebuild kit is about $160-170 but you'll also have to buy an input shaft IF it's hurt. I suggest you buy the video, tear down the trans and see what's hurt. If the input shaft was broken you couldn't drive it. __________________ Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/

09-10-2004, 09:01 AM	#4
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	My input shaft retainer broke once. Made the car sound like it was going in reverse. Drove it around for 2 more weeks before the shaft decided to break on the highway. Not fun at all. Dont those gears each need a preload? I'm pretty sure you cant just stack everything up. You might end up with something that works just as crappy as when you took it out, only in different forms of crappiness. I say....buy something bulletproof. Something that is way overkill for your combo and then never worry about it ever again. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

09-11-2004, 09:31 AM	#6
LX5liter dude5l Join Date: May 2001 Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada Posts: 603	They aren't that bad to re-build. The critical measurments are countershaft endplay and mainshaft endplay/pre-load. Not to hard to do. I haven't seen the Hanlon video, but I'm sure it would make things a lot easier for someone whos doing a rebuild for the first time. __________________ Good luck! Brad R. 1992 L.X. 5.0 coupe MODS: A few little bolt ons New Best time ...11.60 @ 128 mph @ 2000+ ft altitude. Rice Haters Club member #39 Users rides #2542

09-11-2004, 06:03 PM	#7
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	Well guys, it came apart today, turns out, the input shaft is fine, the guy said the slack in it, was from the shims, or lack of, and that he could fix it. But the second gear chipped some teeth, and then eventually destroyed the cluster, so im out 420$ in parts, thats because we are replacing 2nd, AND 3rd with hardened gears, replacing synchros while its apart, and all seals, then the labor will be about another 130$ but im fine with that, he said my t-5 did not have hardened gears, and that they went to hardened in 92 or something like that, but anyways thanks for the replies, also, it turns out i do have a steel bearing retainer, thats good to know late. __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

09-09-2004, 08:22 PM	#2
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	if the input shaft is gone, the trans is hurt, the fillings alone are in the bearings and gearing. I would get a tremec or a cobra trans. I hate the stock t-5s good to a point but once you start rebiulding there never the same. I have my 85's t-5 done 100 miles later totally shot, all gears.. what junk. 1200 bucks later. I would definetly buy a new one..

09-10-2004, 02:52 PM	#5
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	I agree with crazypete.. The rebiuld will be junk with problems.. A solid unit is best.

09-12-2004, 09:06 PM	#8
tmoss Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Saint Louis, MO Posts: 634	What they did in 92 is use a better mix of steel. GEars wouldn't last long if they were not hardened. __________________ Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/