Checking pushrod length.

[rwhite65]

I have read up on this procedure and will be doing it soon here in the next few days. Is there anyway to compensate for the Hydraulic/roller lifter? Unless I can find a buddy with one, I do not have a Roller lifter that I can do the modification to, to make it a solid one for the procedure.

thanks,
Ryan

[rwhite65]

Found a friend with some lifters for this, thanx

[rwhite65]

Ok, I checked my pushrod length tonight and I came up with the correct length of 6.549 in my setup. I cant remember what stock 5.0l pushrods are suppose to be, but I think around 6.270? My stock ones measured 6.248.

Does this seem like a large jump for swapping to after market heads, or does this seem ok? This is the first time I have done this.

When the compressed thickness of the Fel pro 9333PT head gasket is figured in, I need roughly a 6.596 length.

thanks,
Ryan

[~The Jester~]

Doesn't seem like a large jump at all bro. For as IMPORTANT as valve train geometry is, I'm glad to see your putting the effort in. Sounds like you have her figured out!

[rwhite65]

I am gonna check it one more time. The length difference inst bothering me as much as the way the rocker sits on the stud was. I am not hitting anything and there is clearance, but I don't like the way the rocker was sitting. Seems the pushord end of the rocker was kicked way up when I thought I was getting my best mark. I can't seem to find anything on the net about the rocker sitting up like that effecting valvetrain geometry at all.

Just gonna double check, then I will order my pushrods.

[rwhite65]

I decided to post some pics, after looking at it, it doesn't look as bad as I thought. Although I will say there is minimum clearance between the rocker and the lock nut, but if I don't hear anything from any of you gurus I am prolly gonna just order the pushrods tom.
Ryan

[Rev]

What I personally would like to know is how the rocker roller contacts the valve stem with a solid roller lifter in place? The contact area on the valve stem should be mostly in the middle of the valve stem. That's where I want mine in a "mock up" situation. Valve train geomettry is very important IMHO.

Rev

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by Rev

What I personally would like to know is how the rocker roller contacts the valve stem with a solid roller lifter in place? The contact area on the valve stem should be mostly in the middle of the valve stem. That's where I want mine in a "mock up" situation. Valve train geomettry is very important IMHO.

Rev

In the middle, with a nice little "straight line" across the valve stem.

[andy669]

Did you check the lift with a dial indicator? If the lift is right on the money, and you have the contact patch you like, then its good to go.

Andy

[rwhite65]

Andy669-
I did not check the lift with a dial indicator, now I have to go research how to do that Can you explain that a little more possibly?
thanks,
Ryan

[andy669]

You might have to bolt a small steel plate to the head via one of the valve cover bolt holes to give the magnetic base a solid place to sit. Make sure your dial indicator has enough throw to measure the full amount of lift at the retainer. An indicator with a 1" throw is real common. Try to set it up so it is as close to straight with the valve as possible. Set it up on a flat spot on the retainer with the valve fully closed. You will have to put 5 or 6 turns of preload in the indicator so when the valve drops down you will continue reading all the way. Then when you slowly rotate the engine, just count the number of revolutions until you reach max lift.

IMO, with stud mount rockers, this is every bit as important as checking the contact patch. Because of the angle of the pushrod, the angle of the valve, and the angle of the stud, moving the rocker up and down on the stud changes the fulcrum point and can really screw with the lift.

I think its entirely possible to have a decent contact patch and still lose 30 or 40 thou in max lift. And getting that lift back might not make the contact any worse.

Let us know what you find out.

Andy

[rwhite65]

Sorry I didn’t respond sooner. My computer crashed this morning, should of expected that after 5 years of excellent service. Anyway, I am back for now using my laptop.

I am going to run to harbor tool and freight and pick up the dial indicator. I read last night on carcraft.com, about how to adjust pushrods, and it was contradictory to everything else I have read. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ushrod_length/

The weather sucks here, so I have basically just stopped the process here until I feel I have learned this process successfully and am confident that I put the valvetrain together as best as possible.

Anyway, thanks for the advice, every little bit helps.

Ryan

[rwhite65]

Big Props to Andy!! That little trick was what I needed to set my mind at rest. Just for craps and giggles, I also tested the "stock" length pushrods and if that had been the length I went with I would have been losing around 20 thou in lift.

MY first initial estimate was too long though. A few tips to make the test go way better, especially when the car is cold from sitting in a cold shop, vs the air being all warm around it from the shop heater. After coloring the tip, blow on it for a while. The dang ink wasn't drying during the previous tests and I was smudging it all over the place. Dry ink, leaves such a nice mark! On the adjustable pushrod, a little white paint (or white out) on the top (near the rocker) and the bottom (near the Lifter) made minor adjustments so much easier.

Off to the local speed shop to buy parts....heck yeah! Thanks to all for your help!
Ryan

[~The Jester~]

Andy's right with the dial indicator. I looked at you last pic and was like OH NO!!! Then I realized the valve was open. DOH!

Looks good so far. Another little trick I picked up, color the valve stem (where the rocker arm rides) with a sharpie marker. The rocker arm will wear away the ink where it rides. Then you take it all apart, and have an actual visual of your pattern.

[Rev]

Originally Posted by ~The Jester~

Another little trick I picked up, color the valve stem (where the rocker arm rides) with a sharpie marker. The rocker arm will wear away the ink where it rides. Then you take it all apart, and have an actual visual of your pattern.

That's the way I do it too.

Rev