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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() Okay, about every 2 weeks or so the car won't start after I've driven it and it has cooled down (hasn't happened while hot yet at least). Tonight is the 3rd time it's happened, after between 5-30mins it will fire right up, didn't have a test light but the coil wasn't firing, went to find an old coil (couldn't), went back and she fired right up.
Again it has never happened the first time I start it for the day. Ignition module??
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() What did you do to make sure the coil wasn't firing? I would keep trying to swap it out, if that doesn't work, you should try pulling codes when it happens to see if there is anything we can point at.
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#3 |
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Milan, OH
Posts: 2,699
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![]() TFI module is probably the culprit.
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Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!" |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() Checked the coil with a screw driver close to ground and no spark, didn't have a test light , but when I'm working on the car say to check compression I usually unplug the wire to the coil and I have to put a rubber cap on the coil terminal because it'll arc to the fender so definetly no spark.
I changed the module on friday and it has aready happened 3 times since. I am going to try a coil the next time it does it, probably tomorrow ![]() I got a new (rebuilt) distributor a couple of months ago because on the dyno at high RPM the graph got a little sqiggly, but I am almost sure the first time this problem occured was before that, then it was a few weeks before it happened agian, dist. swapped in between, and it has gotten progressivly worse, but I suppose it could very well be the new dist.?
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() Well distributor was warranted so I changed it out yesterday, so I hope that's the end of it. Still haven't tried a coil but I'm gonna get one to carry with me so I can try it if it happens again, as I can try it without mounting it so if it doesn't work I'll take it back.
We'll see
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 92
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![]() Okay, here is something to check. My car did the no start thing a couple of years back. But once it didn't start that was it. There is a temperature sensor on the passenger side of the lower intake right behind the thermostat, on the hard line for the coolant to go to the heater core. It tells the computer if the engine is hot or cold. The next time your car doesn't start hold the pedal on the floor like it is flooded and see what happens. If the car starts then that could be your problem. I actually removed the hard line with the sensor in it. Once I put the sensor back in the car was fine. Hope this helps.
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Black 1990 LX DSS Racing Super Pro Bullit 331, AFR 185, Anderson B31 Cam, 1.6 DSS rockers, Cobra Intake w/ 2 phenolic spacer, Aluminum DS, 3.73 gears, Tremec 3550, Lakewood SFI Bellhousing, MSD Digital 6+, Spintech Side Exhaust, |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() Swapped dist. no probs yet
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() Are you using a different TFI module on it or the one from the bad dist?
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() New TFI, pretty sure we got it.
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() Good call yet again Jeff.
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() Nope, it was the distributor.
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
|
![]() What makes you think it was the dizzy? Did you put the old TFI module on the new dist?
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() It was the dist. because we had the afore mentioned problem and now it stalls at low RPM, like it is missing bad on a couple of cylinders gradually letting RPM rise until it warms up with the current dist. then it runs fine. But the first problem is gone and the new TFI didn't fix it.
So I'm swapping in another until I get a good one (if they have one)
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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