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Old 05-05-2003, 11:23 PM   #1
drtbiker
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Default TFI Module?? is there anyway to test it?

Ok guys i am fighting issues with somthing. I messed with everything and i am starting to lean towards the tfi module.
symptoms:
Hard start
Runs great when car is cold
under stress the car barely moves
bad idle jumping up and down
Inconsistant times at track
car will start better with 3/4 to full throttle better

thanks
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Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive
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Old 05-05-2003, 11:32 PM   #2
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borrow someone elses and if it goes away thats it
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Old 05-05-2003, 11:45 PM   #3
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Most car part locations have a tester that works on the TFI module. Auto Zone carries a tester for $40 that will test 20+ sensors and modules for all makes and models.
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Old 05-06-2003, 12:57 AM   #4
drtbiker
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what is the tester that autozone sells called?
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD!
mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again

SOME ADVICE
Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive
New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system

Fastest time to date: 12.8@113
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Old 05-06-2003, 05:49 AM   #5
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I will check when I get home and post it.
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:10 AM   #6
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You bring your TFI to Auto Zone and they test it for you for Free. Two problems though. First you need to find someone there that can actually do the test, depends on the store

Second, the TFI fails due to heat soaking. A cold module may test fine off the car, but will fail while running.

Good rule of thumb, if it's a original unit, replace it. There was a reacall on these units due to stalling etc..

The Wells unit Auto Zone sells is about as good as a Motorcraft one, the expensive aftermarket units don't really do anything more for you , they just cost more. I paid $40 or so for my unit.
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:24 AM   #7
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How is the holley one? That is what i was looking into because i feel the need to order some more parts from summit =).....

thanks raini
that is what i figured how can u test somthing that doesnt work when it gets hot. I figure spend the 50 dollars because if it isnt it know it will be it in the future.

Also do mass aircomputers get effected if the car is throwing a code? I am a little new with the mass air thing
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD!
mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again

SOME ADVICE
Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive
New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system

Fastest time to date: 12.8@113
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Old 05-07-2003, 07:43 AM   #8
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Well, if your still interested in testing the thick film ignition unit, you can take a peek in the Chiltons manual, (2-8)
they give a diagram of the pins and the resistance you should see between the various pins.
I would think that if the system were seeing troubles from high temp's the values would probably be a slight bit more "out of spec" than usual.
So if you or a buddy have a DMM handy and a chiltons handy, just find section 2-8 and you'll be 1/2 way there.
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Old 05-07-2003, 01:07 PM   #9
drtbiker
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well i ordered a holley tfi module we'll see what happens after the install. Fritzdakat where at in chicago are u from?

later
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD!
mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again

SOME ADVICE
Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive
New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system

Fastest time to date: 12.8@113
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Old 05-09-2003, 10:54 AM   #10
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Just "a bit" south of you in Franklin Park. I just use "Chicago" as a general point of reference. *LOL*

Being up in Mt. Prospect, if you need some electrical test equipment, you should check out Tri-state electronics (on NW highway, west of 83), they usualy have some decent meters for the "budget minded" as well as a full range of high end gear, and if electronics isnt quite your thing, they have all sorts of books on "how to" for the hobbiest.
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Old 05-10-2003, 09:13 PM   #11
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CHEVYGUY, you said your aftermarket TFI did nothing for you? I bought one (Performance distributors Dyna MOD) put it on a 93 Tbird and got 4 rwhp. that was just with the TFI and their coil. did you do a dyno run with your new one?
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Old 05-11-2003, 09:44 AM   #12
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Default Re: TFI Module?? is there anyway to test it?

Quote:
Originally posted by drtbiker
Ok guys i am fighting issues with somthing. I messed with everything and i am starting to lean towards the tfi module.
symptoms:
Hard start
Runs great when car is cold
under stress the car barely moves
bad idle jumping up and down
Inconsistant times at track
car will start better with 3/4 to full throttle better

thanks
Does it start O.K. after it has sat overnight? It almost sounds like a fuel problem, or a MAF problem. What codes have you pulled up? If you haven't pulled any yet start there.
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Old 05-11-2003, 03:23 PM   #13
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I also bought the holley TFI from summit and I experience the same issues when hot its hard to start and you have to open the throttle 3/4 to full throttle then it starts ok.. sometimes also it lopes at idle. seems a millions times better after a jet performance ship though.. keep me posted.
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Old 05-11-2003, 04:32 PM   #14
drtbiker
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i got mine and installed it... it seams alright but i have to mess with the timing... another question will the car run if it is a tooth off. The only reason why i ask this is i have to retard the timing to get the car run good... like 18 degrees that is messed up
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD!
mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again

SOME ADVICE
Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive
New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system

Fastest time to date: 12.8@113
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Old 01-14-2004, 05:00 PM   #15
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Default Ignition problem

My car has been hard to start lately. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Sometimes when I stick the key in the ignition, nothing happens for a few seconds, and then I'll hear the chime sounds. And other times when I stick the key in the chime sounds start right away. Could this be related to my ignition switch?

Also sometimes, I would be driving at any speed and the engine would just die, it did this last night on the highway, I was driving about 70mph when the engine just died, luckly it's a 5speed, so I put the car in neutral, and after about 5 tries, the engine finally starts back up. What could this be. It engine cranks fine and it's getting fuel because I can smell it flooding when I try to start the engine.
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Old 01-14-2004, 06:37 PM   #16
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Default Re: Ignition problem

Quote:
Originally posted by NitroNixon
My car has been hard to start lately. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Sometimes when I stick the key in the ignition, nothing happens for a few seconds, and then I'll hear the chime sounds. And other times when I stick the key in the chime sounds start right away. Could this be related to my ignition switch?

Also sometimes, I would be driving at any speed and the engine would just die, it did this last night on the highway, I was driving about 70mph when the engine just died, luckly it's a 5speed, so I put the car in neutral, and after about 5 tries, the engine finally starts back up. What could this be. It engine cranks fine and it's getting fuel because I can smell it flooding when I try to start the engine.
Sounds like your ignition switch is bad. They'll do some wierd things.
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MODS: A few little bolt ons
New Best time ...11.60 @ 128 mph @ 2000+ ft altitude.


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Old 01-15-2004, 02:22 AM   #17
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A bad ground will also cause your problem. Check the battery post ground first then the one behind the drivers head and then the one at the starter solenoid.
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