Head springs......

Shotgun28 · 01-02-2001, 01:03 AM

I was thinking that with 90,000 miles on my baby that while I save for some new heads that perhaps getting some new springs may liven her up a bit, does anyone have any ideas, thoughts or cost est. of doing this and how hard it is to do yourself. Would it be worth it, new heads next year.....Thanks in advance.

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91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit, March underdrive pulley's Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

Jeff Chambers · 01-02-2001, 07:29 AM

You can go ahead and pull the heads yourself, but I'd recommend letting a good engine shop do the spring install. This way, they can check the springs for proper seat and lift pressures, plus check the valve seats for unusual wear. Its a good time to have the valve job freshened as well. You'll also sleep better know a shop has reassembled the locks and that its not very likely that you're going to drop a valve into a cylinder somewhere down the road. Seen it happen and its not pretty. For a stock cam, I think you'll look for somewhere around 100-120 lbs seat pressure with 280-300 lbs at .500" lift. For regular street duty with occasional strip duty, you'll be fine with single springs with internal damper. I'd just go with the FRPP GT-40 spring kit.

If you're going to have the engine that far down for fresh springs, then its also a great time to replace the lifters and change out the cam.

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Jeff Chambers
Trophy Stock #3
11.97 Seconds / 114.5 MPH
http://www.kellnet.com/chambers

01-02-2001, 01:03 AM	#1
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	Head springs...... I was thinking that with 90,000 miles on my baby that while I save for some new heads that perhaps getting some new springs may liven her up a bit, does anyone have any ideas, thoughts or cost est. of doing this and how hard it is to do yourself. Would it be worth it, new heads next year.....Thanks in advance. ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit, March underdrive pulley's Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

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01-02-2001, 07:29 AM	#2
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	You can go ahead and pull the heads yourself, but I'd recommend letting a good engine shop do the spring install. This way, they can check the springs for proper seat and lift pressures, plus check the valve seats for unusual wear. Its a good time to have the valve job freshened as well. You'll also sleep better know a shop has reassembled the locks and that its not very likely that you're going to drop a valve into a cylinder somewhere down the road. Seen it happen and its not pretty. For a stock cam, I think you'll look for somewhere around 100-120 lbs seat pressure with 280-300 lbs at .500" lift. For regular street duty with occasional strip duty, you'll be fine with single springs with internal damper. I'd just go with the FRPP GT-40 spring kit. If you're going to have the engine that far down for fresh springs, then its also a great time to replace the lifters and change out the cam. ------------------ Jeff Chambers Trophy Stock #3 11.97 Seconds / 114.5 MPH http://www.kellnet.com/chambers