Comp Cams says my cam is too small

[82 GT]

It's been mentioned by a few people that there is a possibility that my cam is not enough for my 3700 converter.
I filled out the online cam help for on Comp Cams website and gave them detailed info about my setup.
They said my 274XE cam is too not enough and I should step up to the 294XE cam.

The specs are 294*/306* .554/.558

What do you guys think?

[Dark Knight]

What does the converter actually stall at?

The specs are 294*/306* .554/.558
Is this what they say you need, or what you have now?

[82 GT]

That's what they say I need. My converter foot brakes at around 3000K or so.
My cam now is: 274/286 .519/.523 110LSA

[Dark Knight]

They're probably right, thats a small cam for a 351. Better for a mild 302. You can always get recomendations from other cam companies too. Lazer cams has a form too.. try it and see what they say
http://www.lazercams.com/

Might just go with a custom one from Ed Curtis too.
http://www.flowtechinduction.com/

[Dark_5.0]

Originally Posted by Dark Knight

Might just go with a custom one from Ed Curtis too.
http://www.flowtechinduction.com/

This is the route you want to go.

Ed Curtis knows his stuff. I just installed my custom Flowtech Induction cam and all I have to say is "wow"!!!

He offers excellent technical support and is known for extracting more HP than anyone else.

Its the best $325.00 you can spend IMO.

[~The Jester~]

Call Kip at Cam Motion in "LOOSE-I-ANNA" ( www.cammotion.com ) get a custom cam built, and DONE.

That boy know's what he's doing.

The longer I do this, the more I find that even though I live in Ohio, I'm ordering ALOT of custom stuff from "dahn sauth!"

You know about my tranny and what a big Pro Motion fan I am, but those guys are actually building my clutch conversion kit for me. I'll own the first cable operated clutch in a Fairlane.

Kip builds ALL (WITHOUT exception!!!) our cams, and he's NEVER done us wrong.

[82 GT]

Jester...PM sent!

[HeadDoctor]

How do they figure your cam is to small?

Did you give them flow numbers from the heads?
Sounds to me like they're trying to sell you another cam - Go and try the one you got before you shoot yourself in the foot.
We've got plenty of stangs running around here (Hot-Lanta) with the same stuff you got and they run fine -I don't know where you are but get your ride going before you change directions, or add and subtract what you already got!!!

Denny @ JDS Induction Products

[82 GT]

My ride is already running.

Go here for my complete story:http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/all...all_53118.html

[HeadDoctor]

OK - Import Slayer
I read all that stuff - Where did your 6 MPH go? Correct

Converter Tech - What size 8 inch 9 inch or 10 inch or etc. Not enough info

Sounds to me like the converter is slipping to much who built it? Do you have a trans-break?
There's a vast differnence in converters - I've see 2 & 3 tenths from one to another, especially when you change from a 10 to an 8 or visa versa. The only real way to see where the converter stalls at is to use the Trans-Break and mat the pedel. Do this a couple of times to see if it will go there consistently.

Why is it that all you guys always want to blame your motor when it probably isen't the motor at all. If the chassis can't put the power to the asphalt, it doesn't matter what the motor does!

Anyway I like your logo - unfortunately I have to work on Bowtie Products too - a guy has to pay the bills some way - do they still make Chryslers?

Denny@JDS Induction Products - HeadDoctor out

My E-Mail is dennyschmidt19@comcast.net

[Dark Knight]

Wait and see what happens when you run it when it's cooler. I lost 4mph easily between summer and winter here so I wouldnt be suprised to see you pick the MPH back up.

[82 GT]

HEAD DOCTOR....I have a 9.5 inch Edge racing converter. If you know about converters then you know they're good.
I'm turning about 5200-5300 rpms through the traps. I think it was about the same rpms with the old converter too....give or take a 100 rpms.

[HeadDoctor]

Import Slayer
Well If you had told us all the facts to begin with then the question "My cam is to small" might be valid.

What happens when you try to shift the motor at a higher rpm?
Where did you install the cam advanced or retarded from straight up?
Did you call the converter folks and tell them what happend?
Did you ask the converter folks what a 8-inch will do - They can get 8-incher's that tight - at least JW & Art Car can.

However Dark Night is right all cars lose speed and ET during the summer and get it back in the fall, spring and winter, the CUP-Guys hate it because they have to change the whole engine program for the summer months.

If you really want to change the cam here's my suggestion - Lunati 242-252 @ 050 .544 x .560 hydrolic roller - There's also a Wolverine Blue Racer very similar.
I don't have my Comp Book here near this computer so I can't compare the numbers.
Ok - I looked in the comp web pages and the comparable stick to the ones above in flat tappet are the EX284H & EX294H The 294 is 250 @ .050 a bit much for the street but I think you can live with it. You're probably asking yourself what does this guy know about cams anyway? Right! Well I worked for Reed Cams for 8 yrs as the head tech guy and ran the head dept. JDS is a cyl-head Co. I started in 1980.

Next - Which is easer to change the stick or the converter?
Don't throw rocks at your Blue pump - Holley makes a Hop-Up kit for them - Remember thats all we had for years. Sometimes they get weak and you have to get a rebuild kit.
Call some other converter MFG like ATI, TCI, JW, Coan discuss the problem with them see if you can get an 8-Incher that will respond the way your other one did. If I thought you could handle it I'de recomend a 7-Incher. Think about the Inertia it takes to turn that converter and all the oil inside of it. Best have a very good tranny cooler!!!
There's no substitute for information and knowledge so get it wherever you can and from reputable sources. Remember the blind can't lead the blind!

Denn@JDS Induction Products HeadDoctor out

[82 GT]

I shift at 6K I don't shift any higher because that's where the cam specs say it makes it's peak power.....any more and it's only abuse.
Don't get me wrong, it WILL spin up to 6500 but I don't think it's making anymore power up there...do you?
The cam is installed "straigh up". I didn't call Edge converters because I want to eliminate all possible problems before I call them.
I just just wait until I race friday night in the cool weather and see what happens then.
Do you want me to post my old and new time slips with the old converter and new converter?

[Dark_5.0]

Its real easy to get too much cam when you are running stock heads. Especially with an auto.

Thats why I say go with a custom cam.

It seems to me you have spent quite a bit on several cams over the last couple years and now you may switch again.

Why not bolt on some good heads so your 351 wont run like a 302.

I thought my ported and polished stock heads were really good. I bolted on a true 50 RWHP when I went to aftermarket heads and that was on a 302.

Just something to think about.

[HeadDoctor]

Import Slayer

Yes every tidbit of info is necessary
Ok - Here's the deal - when you advance the cam it brings the low and mid-range power lower, when you retard the cam it goes higher. You need to actually find out where the engine noses over, so shift it higher with each pass untill you are sure where the nose-over point is - write that in your log-book. Next try to identify exactly how much RPM Gain there is in the shift transition. From this info you can extrapolate where to move the lever.
Next - There is a direct correlation between the tire DIA and the Gear-Ratio and you have to know that info, in order to determine the correct shift points verses the car-speed with regards to track-position down the 1/4 mile. See - IF the converter is correct and the shift RPM is correct then you might have to take gear out of the car in order to get it to move down the track faster - considering the POWER-CURV controlled by the cam.
Next - You got a C-4 first gear is 2.46 times the rear gear (4.10)= 10.086 I like to see something in the neighborhood of 8.5 to 9.5. - Get a Moroso Calculator so you can calculate the speed verses the RPM verses the tire OD - Reevaluate this combo after you go to the track on Friday or Saturday

What I'm trying to teach you is to have all the tools you need in the area of info before you buy anything or change anything that costs a lot of money and time. Calculate the expected results of every change you make before you make it - math is your friend use it correctly and you will always be ahead of the rest of the pack. There are several "Automotive Math" books available from Amazon look for SA Design and others. Is there a speed shop near you that sells books pick out the ones that interest you most then look for the best deal and get um. (See Barnes & Noble - Berders etc)

You want to know about cams - look on the ISKY web-site to see if they have the cam books listed - get them - read them. Lunati also has excellent cam info - Edelbrock also has some good tech articals. These guys are in the business to help you go-fast they want you to KNOW stuff it makes them look good when you GO-FAST. Then you want to tell all your friends about it - this sells more parts for them - I say keep it to yourself - That knowledge gives you a competitive edge!!!

Denny@JDS Induction Products HeadDoctor out

[82 GT]

No...this is the same cam I put in it when I built it. I would LOVE to bolt on a nice set of aftermarket heads but I don't have the funds for them now.
My setup, right now, should be running 12's......ported stock heads or not!

[Dark_5.0]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

No...this is the same cam I put in it when I built it. I would LOVE to bolt on a nice set of aftermarket heads but I don't have the funds for them now.
My setup, right now, should be running 12's......ported stock heads or not!

I agree.

I hope you figure it out.