Help this goober, with installing his new heads.

Shotgun28 · 01-30-2001, 02:27 PM

Like in previous posts I have said that I got my new GT40 P heads, and have asked about gaskets, etc. But I guess what I will really need to know is how to install them. I will print this out and use as an extra guidance along with my Haynes/Chilton's. Regarding the pushrods, and using my guides, etc, does everything have to be removed, or can you leave the pushrods in there, blah,blah. I have never done this before, and will be putting in my new intake at the same time. Thanks in advance, any info would be very appreciated.

------------------
91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

1989GT · 01-30-2001, 02:54 PM

Okay this is probably gonna get pretty long. Okay I'm not sure how much you've already done so I'll start off in the begining. Drain the coolant, disconnect hoses. Label and disconnect all vac. lines etc. from the upper intake. Take the bolts out of the upper. Pull the upper intake. Take off the valve covers, disconnect the fuel lines, take out the lower intake. Now take off the rocker arms and push rods and keep them together. Label them cyl. 1 I\E. I pushed my push rods thru a piece of card board and put the rocker arm next to it. Now pull the alt.\ac\powersteering pump. off and lay them aside. I just took off the bolts and layed them in the side of the engine compartment with everything still attached. Take the headers off.(remember they attach to the h-pipe too) Then take the head bolts out. Pull the heads. Remember those heads are heavy.

Clean everything really well. Install in reverse order. Remember to use oil on the upper head bolts and a thread sealant on the bottom head bolts. Follow all torque sequences. Have fun and take your time.

------------------
89GT,T-5Z, D.S.S. 306 shortblock w\main support, B-303 cam, Cobra intake, GT40P heads, 1.72rr, MAC "P" headers, MAC off-road H-Pipe, MAC true-fit w\tips, 373's...and the list goes on!
Throttle Junkie Powered by Ford!
12.824 @ 107.05 MPH
PVT Blankenship leaving for BCT 14MAR01
MOS 67 Romeo

exgmguy · 01-30-2001, 03:30 PM

If I could add to that...

Use a scotchbrite type pad on a drill motor to clean the deck surfaces. Have someone hold a running shopvac close to suck up debris. Then wipe everything down with brake cleaner.

Also remember to change your oil before starting the car. When you pull the lower intake coolant will drain into the oil pan.

Antifreeze kills bearing surfaces.

NO SLO PK · 01-30-2001, 04:38 PM

If I can also suggest:

New head bolts (as in ARP) are good insurance. I've gotten burned everytime I tried to re-use the stock bolts - they stretch and then the head gaskets wouldn't hold.

Engine assembly grease on the ends of the pushrods and valve tips is good protection for initial start-up.

If you want to go the extra step, chase the threads in the block with a tap before you set the new heads in place.

It's kinda coincidental that I'm putting on a set of Edelbrocks this weekend.

------------------
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

Josh91 · 01-30-2001, 05:20 PM

When I did my head/cam swap, I did every single thing that the above 3 posts mentioned and mine turned out great. They are all giving excellent advice.

------------------
1991 Mustang GT - Cobra Intake, FMS 65mm TB, C&L 73mm MAF, GT-40P heads, Crane 2031 cam, Crane 1.7rr, Built AOD, Art Carr 2400 non-lockup converter, Transgo shift kit, BBK chrome cold air, FMS 'P' headers, Pacesetter off-road H, BBK aluminum pulleys, 2-C Flows w/ dumps, 4.10's, Steeda STB, for now...

The Original GT-40P Tech Page

01-30-2001, 02:27 PM	#1
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	Help this goober, with installing his new heads. Like in previous posts I have said that I got my new GT40 P heads, and have asked about gaskets, etc. But I guess what I will really need to know is how to install them. I will print this out and use as an extra guidance along with my Haynes/Chilton's. Regarding the pushrods, and using my guides, etc, does everything have to be removed, or can you leave the pushrods in there, blah,blah. I have never done this before, and will be putting in my new intake at the same time. Thanks in advance, any info would be very appreciated. ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

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01-30-2001, 02:54 PM	#2
1989GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Cincinnati,OH Posts: 1,511	Okay this is probably gonna get pretty long. Okay I'm not sure how much you've already done so I'll start off in the begining. Drain the coolant, disconnect hoses. Label and disconnect all vac. lines etc. from the upper intake. Take the bolts out of the upper. Pull the upper intake. Take off the valve covers, disconnect the fuel lines, take out the lower intake. Now take off the rocker arms and push rods and keep them together. Label them cyl. 1 I\E. I pushed my push rods thru a piece of card board and put the rocker arm next to it. Now pull the alt.\ac\powersteering pump. off and lay them aside. I just took off the bolts and layed them in the side of the engine compartment with everything still attached. Take the headers off.(remember they attach to the h-pipe too) Then take the head bolts out. Pull the heads. Remember those heads are heavy. Clean everything really well. Install in reverse order. Remember to use oil on the upper head bolts and a thread sealant on the bottom head bolts. Follow all torque sequences. Have fun and take your time. ------------------ 89GT,T-5Z, D.S.S. 306 shortblock w\main support, B-303 cam, Cobra intake, GT40P heads, 1.72rr, MAC "P" headers, MAC off-road H-Pipe, MAC true-fit w\tips, 373's...and the list goes on! Throttle Junkie Powered by Ford! 12.824 @ 107.05 MPH PVT Blankenship leaving for BCT 14MAR01 MOS 67 Romeo

01-30-2001, 03:30 PM	#3
exgmguy Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Utica, Michigan Posts: 2,631	If I could add to that... Use a scotchbrite type pad on a drill motor to clean the deck surfaces. Have someone hold a running shopvac close to suck up debris. Then wipe everything down with brake cleaner. Also remember to change your oil before starting the car. When you pull the lower intake coolant will drain into the oil pan. Antifreeze kills bearing surfaces.

01-30-2001, 04:38 PM	#4
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	If I can also suggest: New head bolts (as in ARP) are good insurance. I've gotten burned everytime I tried to re-use the stock bolts - they stretch and then the head gaskets wouldn't hold. Engine assembly grease on the ends of the pushrods and valve tips is good protection for initial start-up. If you want to go the extra step, chase the threads in the block with a tap before you set the new heads in place. It's kinda coincidental that I'm putting on a set of Edelbrocks this weekend. ------------------ '91 LX Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

01-30-2001, 05:20 PM	#5
Josh91 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Salina, KS Posts: 83	When I did my head/cam swap, I did every single thing that the above 3 posts mentioned and mine turned out great. They are all giving excellent advice. ------------------ 1991 Mustang GT - Cobra Intake, FMS 65mm TB, C&L 73mm MAF, GT-40P heads, Crane 2031 cam, Crane 1.7rr, Built AOD, Art Carr 2400 non-lockup converter, Transgo shift kit, BBK chrome cold air, FMS 'P' headers, Pacesetter off-road H, BBK aluminum pulleys, 2-C Flows w/ dumps, 4.10's, Steeda STB, for now... The Original GT-40P Tech Page