Lifting the front wheels..

NOTCH306 · 05-31-2005, 08:08 PM

I have a 1990 notchback with a 306 on nitrous and it made 325 hp and 370 ft lbs of torque at the wheels and i wondering what i need to do or if i can bring the front wheels of the ground. I don't care if it is even an inch i just want to pull them up. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Brian

88workcar · 05-31-2005, 09:41 PM

90/10s nothing else

Dark_5.0 · 06-01-2005, 09:35 AM

Its a little more complex than 90/10's.

Auto or 5 speed?

Do you run slicks?

Do you have sub frame connectors?

What gears are you running?

USMC302 · 06-01-2005, 10:59 AM

Weight transfer, you could do it with a stock stang if the suspension is setup right. Battery in thr trunk? Remove front steel bumber mounts, remove, smog, remove a/c, 90/10's on the front, some good traction out back, subframes, fiberglass hood. 5-speed=launch hard, pop clutch, auto=trans brake? Good luck.

06-01-2005, 01:26 PM

Slicks & drag suspension. But as the others said, you'll definitely need subframe connectors to help the car from twisting when launching at 5,000-6,000rpms.

mustangII460 · 06-01-2005, 03:52 PM

A jack or ramps.

NOTCH306 · 06-01-2005, 05:50 PM

I have a T-56 six speed, sub frame connectors, 3:73 gears, smog delete, a/c delete, power steering delete, fiber glass hood, and slicks on the way.

NOTCH306 · 06-01-2005, 05:51 PM

and the battery is in the trunk also.

06-01-2005, 07:57 PM

Now just get some 90/10s front struts & 50/50 shocks in back & full on drag springs...& there's a chance you could see a little air under the front left tire...

NOTCH306 · 06-02-2005, 08:26 PM

alright i'll get some of those. Thanks guys

88workcar · 06-02-2005, 11:44 PM

What did I say?

tmoss · 06-03-2005, 07:32 AM

Suspension, suspension, suspension. To really do it right, you have to relocate the body mount of the upper control arm about 1-1.5" lower to give the car an isntant center that it can work on. The stock Mustang suspension has NO instant center, and adding replacement control arms does not change that.

NOTCH306 · 06-03-2005, 10:44 AM

i believe that s-box or stang-box or what that that one company sellls that replaces the factory upper control mounts allows you to lower the upper attachment point

06-03-2005, 12:00 PM

I've never heard of relocating the upper control arms to a lower position for better suspension geometry?? Does anyone know the name of this company, or better yet, have a link?

tmoss · 06-03-2005, 12:39 PM

Here is a graphic that will help you see. The blue line is the modified line creating the instant center - the upper red line is the original line creatred by the orientation of the upper control arm centers.

andy669 · 06-03-2005, 10:49 PM

Where the IC needs to be it totally dependent on the weight bias. Moving the UCA body mounting point down will actually help to keep the front end down.

Right now the Strange adjustable shocks and struts are the best pieces out there, for the money. I run AFCO rears, but they are $370 each. Get some decent shocks and struts, and move as much weight to the rear as you can. Get a slick and run minimal tire pressure. Choose a lauch rpm that wont bog and wont spin the tires. Get your car to dead hook and it will lift the front tires. It might not be fast that way, but it should pick the fronts up.

Andy

~The Jester~ · 06-04-2005, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andy669

Where the IC needs to be it totally dependent on the weight bias. Moving the UCA body mounting point down will actually help to keep the front end down.

Yeah, what he said! Lowering the front control arms actually makes the front wheels have to travel FARTHER to get off the ground.

Get the suspension tuned up for starters. Rear control arms would be my first stop. Stockers just flex waaaaay too much. Some good slicks, and well thought out launch RPM, and sidestep the clutch.

Keep 2 things in mind. Yanking the wheels sure looks cool, but it's not the fastest way down the track. Going "up" is wasted motion, the best times/speed come from going "forward". The other thing to remember, when launching a car hard enough to hang the hoops, you WILL find the weak spot in your driveline!

tmoss · 06-04-2005, 07:38 AM

My comment was "how to do it right", not how to put on a show. But his question was about putting on a show. Lowering control arms does not correlate to how far the wheels have to travel, it's about how the suspension acts on transferring weight from an instant center and center of gravity.

andy669 · 06-04-2005, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmoss

My comment was "how to do it right", not how to put on a show. But his question was about putting on a show. Lowering control arms does not correlate to how far the wheels have to travel, it's about how the suspension acts on transferring weight from an instant center and center of gravity.

Yes, thats exactly right Tom. But with a 50/50 weight bias the stock pick-up points 'can' work. Its going to depend on your ride height though. Once you start getting more than 51 on the rear, thats when the advantages of the UCA relocaters really become evident.

Andy

NOTCH306 · 06-05-2005, 10:35 PM

i don't have some aftermarket rear controls arms, and i'm not really worried about making the fastest time down the strip all i want to do is put on a show. If a get that shit on video tape that is all i'm worried about, thanks for all the inputs guys this is great, keep them coming. nice wheelie andy669

05-31-2005, 08:08 PM	#1
NOTCH306 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: York, PA Posts: 46	Lifting the front wheels.. I have a 1990 notchback with a 306 on nitrous and it made 325 hp and 370 ft lbs of torque at the wheels and i wondering what i need to do or if i can bring the front wheels of the ground. I don't care if it is even an inch i just want to pull them up. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Brian

05-31-2005, 09:41 PM	#2
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. 90/10s nothing else __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

06-01-2005, 09:35 AM	#3
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. Its a little more complex than 90/10's. Auto or 5 speed? Do you run slicks? Do you have sub frame connectors? What gears are you running? __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer

06-01-2005, 10:59 AM	#4
USMC302 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Gallatin, Tn Posts: 1,326	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. Weight transfer, you could do it with a stock stang if the suspension is setup right. Battery in thr trunk? Remove front steel bumber mounts, remove, smog, remove a/c, 90/10's on the front, some good traction out back, subframes, fiberglass hood. 5-speed=launch hard, pop clutch, auto=trans brake? Good luck. __________________

06-01-2005, 01:26 PM	#5
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. Slicks & drag suspension. But as the others said, you'll definitely need subframe connectors to help the car from twisting when launching at 5,000-6,000rpms.

06-01-2005, 03:52 PM	#6
mustangII460 Factoy Five Roadster Join Date: May 2000 Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee Posts: 1,681	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. A jack or ramps. __________________ Frank

06-01-2005, 05:50 PM	#7
NOTCH306 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: York, PA Posts: 46	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. I have a T-56 six speed, sub frame connectors, 3:73 gears, smog delete, a/c delete, power steering delete, fiber glass hood, and slicks on the way.

06-01-2005, 05:51 PM	#8
NOTCH306 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: York, PA Posts: 46	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. and the battery is in the trunk also.

06-01-2005, 07:57 PM	#9
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. Now just get some 90/10s front struts & 50/50 shocks in back & full on drag springs...& there's a chance you could see a little air under the front left tire...

06-02-2005, 08:26 PM	#10
NOTCH306 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: York, PA Posts: 46	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. alright i'll get some of those. Thanks guys __________________ 1990 Notch, 306, T-56 trans, 3:73 gears, zex 100 shot, gt-40,z-303 cam, roush 200 heads, powerdyne on the way

06-02-2005, 11:44 PM	#11
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. What did I say? __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

06-03-2005, 07:32 AM	#12
tmoss Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Saint Louis, MO Posts: 634	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. Suspension, suspension, suspension. To really do it right, you have to relocate the body mount of the upper control arm about 1-1.5" lower to give the car an isntant center that it can work on. The stock Mustang suspension has NO instant center, and adding replacement control arms does not change that. __________________ Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/

06-03-2005, 10:44 AM	#13
NOTCH306 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: York, PA Posts: 46	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. i believe that s-box or stang-box or what that that one company sellls that replaces the factory upper control mounts allows you to lower the upper attachment point __________________ 1990 Notch, 306, T-56 trans, 3:73 gears, zex 100 shot, gt-40,z-303 cam, roush 200 heads, powerdyne on the way

06-03-2005, 12:00 PM	#14
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. I've never heard of relocating the upper control arms to a lower position for better suspension geometry?? Does anyone know the name of this company, or better yet, have a link?

06-03-2005, 10:49 PM	#16
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. Where the IC needs to be it totally dependent on the weight bias. Moving the UCA body mounting point down will actually help to keep the front end down. Right now the Strange adjustable shocks and struts are the best pieces out there, for the money. I run AFCO rears, but they are $370 each. Get some decent shocks and struts, and move as much weight to the rear as you can. Get a slick and run minimal tire pressure. Choose a lauch rpm that wont bog and wont spin the tires. Get your car to dead hook and it will lift the front tires. It might not be fast that way, but it should pick the fronts up. Andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

06-04-2005, 07:38 AM	#18
tmoss Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Saint Louis, MO Posts: 634	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. My comment was "how to do it right", not how to put on a show. But his question was about putting on a show. Lowering control arms does not correlate to how far the wheels have to travel, it's about how the suspension acts on transferring weight from an instant center and center of gravity. __________________ Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/

06-05-2005, 10:35 PM	#20
NOTCH306 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: York, PA Posts: 46	Re: Lifting the front wheels.. i don't have some aftermarket rear controls arms, and i'm not really worried about making the fastest time down the strip all i want to do is put on a show. If a get that shit on video tape that is all i'm worried about, thanks for all the inputs guys this is great, keep them coming. nice wheelie andy669 __________________ 1990 Notch, 306, T-56 trans, 3:73 gears, zex 100 shot, gt-40,z-303 cam, roush 200 heads, powerdyne on the way

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