New Headers but no egr connection

stangsman · 11-27-2003, 02:42 PM

I just had long tube headers installed on my '95 but the egr pipe broke off when disassembling the old stock headers. So the header EGR was capped off and the pipe from the EGR valve was cut short with the end crimped and soldered.
First couple of days there was steam and hissing coming out from the passenger side of the motor, and there was a smell of solder or welding. I've noticed where the pipe connects to the EGR valve has moisture, so I will put some thread sealant hopefully this will stop the steam.
Also, now the motor "lopes" at idle and stalls only at a stop or manuerving in my tight driveway. Any suggestions how the steam and stall can be fixed. Should I just fabricate a EGR pipe or should I just leave it as is disconnected. Any benefits leaving out the EGR pipe? Thanks.

stangGT95 · 11-27-2003, 11:15 PM

I'm not suggesting this but I decided to do away with the pipe between my header and intake. I cut the pipe off welded a cap/nut to the original EGR ends (I found them at ACE hardware) that was the same size (just wasn't same type thread just didn't look hard enough I guess) and reinstalled (also put some teflon tape on the end that went to the intake). I haven't had any leaks or codes thrown. But heard afterwards that the since the computer doesn't know there's no exhaust gases being recirculated that you'll run leaner since there's now more burnable incoming air. I'm not sure if I'm right but just what I've done/heard.

stangsman · 12-21-2003, 09:54 AM

Thanks for the reply. After driving for a month with the new headers, the steam and lopey idle seem to have gone away. Possible the computer "relearned" itself.

11-27-2003, 02:42 PM	#1
stangsman Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: New York City Posts: 2	New Headers but no egr connection I just had long tube headers installed on my '95 but the egr pipe broke off when disassembling the old stock headers. So the header EGR was capped off and the pipe from the EGR valve was cut short with the end crimped and soldered. First couple of days there was steam and hissing coming out from the passenger side of the motor, and there was a smell of solder or welding. I've noticed where the pipe connects to the EGR valve has moisture, so I will put some thread sealant hopefully this will stop the steam. Also, now the motor "lopes" at idle and stalls only at a stop or manuerving in my tight driveway. Any suggestions how the steam and stall can be fixed. Should I just fabricate a EGR pipe or should I just leave it as is disconnected. Any benefits leaving out the EGR pipe? Thanks.

11-27-2003, 11:15 PM	#2
stangGT95 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Novinger, Mo Posts: 72	I'm not suggesting this but I decided to do away with the pipe between my header and intake. I cut the pipe off welded a cap/nut to the original EGR ends (I found them at ACE hardware) that was the same size (just wasn't same type thread just didn't look hard enough I guess) and reinstalled (also put some teflon tape on the end that went to the intake). I haven't had any leaks or codes thrown. But heard afterwards that the since the computer doesn't know there's no exhaust gases being recirculated that you'll run leaner since there's now more burnable incoming air. I'm not sure if I'm right but just what I've done/heard. __________________ 95 GT w/ AODE and Transgo Shift kit, trans cooler, SpeedCal, KB 1.5 Flowzilla w/ 6# pulley, MAC chrome CAI, chrome radiator hoses, stock MAF w/ center post removed, 70mm PP TB, electrical boost & FP gauges, digital A/F gauge, 1 5/8" unequal headers, 2 1/2" ProChamber h-pipe, Borla catback exhaust, and 3.55's. Cobra RR hood, Saleen double wing, Xenon body kit, chrome Cobra R wheels 17X8 in front and 17X10.5 in the back.

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12-21-2003, 09:54 AM	#3
stangsman Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: New York City Posts: 2	Thanks for the reply. After driving for a month with the new headers, the steam and lopey idle seem to have gone away. Possible the computer "relearned" itself.