removing intake

mak375 · 04-08-2003, 08:19 PM

in preparation for sending my intake to be ported, i need to remove it. i need specific details as to how to do it. the most complex thing i have done is my pullies, so try to be as descriptive (dont just use the name and assume i know what it is) as possible.

thanks

cyberstang5.0 · 04-09-2003, 07:32 AM

Go to Autozone (or your local autoparts store) and get a Chilton's book for your year Mustang. It will tell and show you how to take it off. It is usually only 20-25 bucks but if your going to be working on your car yourself, wether it be mods or repairs, it will be very helpful.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...624847-9204767

cyberstang5.0 · 04-09-2003, 07:34 AM

oh, I noticed that you have a SN-95 stang..... Here's the info....

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books

Falcons Talon · 04-09-2003, 11:04 AM

My Chilton's is covered in oil and grime...and the cover is bent and most of the pages are frayed...I barely recognized that picture...

silver_pilate · 04-09-2003, 02:05 PM

Helpful hint: get a fuel line connector tool if you're removing the lower intake. I've done without it a number of times by fabricating my own, but it'll save you time if you've got it.

You'll have to take off the cap and rotor from the distributor. Remove the intake tube from the TB. Disconnect coolant lines to EGR plate. Disconnect all electrical connections to TB area. Remove the upper intake bolts (don't forget the two under the plate on the top of the intake...requires torx bits to remove cover). Find all the intake lines which come into the upper intake and remove them as you can get to them. It's likely going to take a little effort to break the upper intake free from the gasket/lower intake. After it's loose, check again to make sure everything is disconnected from it and slide it out from under the AC compressor line. Be sure not to drop anything down into the lower intake runners (cover them with duct tape).

Lower intake requires removing the fuel lines. After that, it's very similar. Just remove everything connected to the intake, remove the bolts, and pull it off. Cover the intake ports with tape and place a towel over the whole area to keep it clean.

Next, remove all sensors/plugs/fuel injectors from lower intake, making note of where they go. Injectors simply pull straight out. Make sure you get the O-ring out for each injector if it doesn't come out with the injector. I usually leave the fuel lines connected to the injectors, but they remove/reinstall the same way. When you put it all back together, a little spray lube will pop those injectors right back in. If you notice any crumbled plastic tips from the injectors, you can replace those from Auto Zone or somewhere. Also, maybe a good idea to replace the O-rings if they're in bad shape.

Straight forward job. Just take your time, take some pictures so that you know where stuff goes back on, and remove anything that is connected or in the way.

My minds kinda fuzzy right now, so I hope I didn't miss something blairing. Good luck.

--nathan

--nathan

04-08-2003, 08:19 PM	#1
mak375 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: State College, PA Posts: 104	removing intake in preparation for sending my intake to be ported, i need to remove it. i need specific details as to how to do it. the most complex thing i have done is my pullies, so try to be as descriptive (dont just use the name and assume i know what it is) as possible. thanks __________________ blk 94 cobra 5spd 3.73 gears steeda tri-ax, flowmaster catback, bassani x-pipe w/ high flow cats, MAC headers, ported and polished intake, trick flow twisted wedge heads, e303 cam, rear upper and lower control arms cold air induction w/ k&n air filter subframe connectors, underdrive pullies, MT ET streets, clear corners, chrome cobra r wheels

04-09-2003, 02:05 PM	#5
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Helpful hint: get a fuel line connector tool if you're removing the lower intake. I've done without it a number of times by fabricating my own, but it'll save you time if you've got it. You'll have to take off the cap and rotor from the distributor. Remove the intake tube from the TB. Disconnect coolant lines to EGR plate. Disconnect all electrical connections to TB area. Remove the upper intake bolts (don't forget the two under the plate on the top of the intake...requires torx bits to remove cover). Find all the intake lines which come into the upper intake and remove them as you can get to them. It's likely going to take a little effort to break the upper intake free from the gasket/lower intake. After it's loose, check again to make sure everything is disconnected from it and slide it out from under the AC compressor line. Be sure not to drop anything down into the lower intake runners (cover them with duct tape). Lower intake requires removing the fuel lines. After that, it's very similar. Just remove everything connected to the intake, remove the bolts, and pull it off. Cover the intake ports with tape and place a towel over the whole area to keep it clean. Next, remove all sensors/plugs/fuel injectors from lower intake, making note of where they go. Injectors simply pull straight out. Make sure you get the O-ring out for each injector if it doesn't come out with the injector. I usually leave the fuel lines connected to the injectors, but they remove/reinstall the same way. When you put it all back together, a little spray lube will pop those injectors right back in. If you notice any crumbled plastic tips from the injectors, you can replace those from Auto Zone or somewhere. Also, maybe a good idea to replace the O-rings if they're in bad shape. Straight forward job. Just take your time, take some pictures so that you know where stuff goes back on, and remove anything that is connected or in the way. My minds kinda fuzzy right now, so I hope I didn't miss something blairing. Good luck. --nathan --nathan __________________ '91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT Last edited by silver_pilate; 04-09-2003 at 02:18 PM..

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04-09-2003, 07:32 AM	#2
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	Go to Autozone (or your local autoparts store) and get a Chilton's book for your year Mustang. It will tell and show you how to take it off. It is usually only 20-25 bucks but if your going to be working on your car yourself, wether it be mods or repairs, it will be very helpful. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...624847-9204767

04-09-2003, 07:34 AM	#3
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	oh, I noticed that you have a SN-95 stang..... Here's the info.... http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books

04-09-2003, 11:04 AM	#4
Falcons Talon T.P.M. President Join Date: May 2002 Location: Brownsville Posts: 265	My Chilton's is covered in oil and grime...and the cover is bent and most of the pages are frayed...I barely recognized that picture...