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#1 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() Occasional my headlights turn off, they just lose power. The original foglights are working but I dont use them. If I play with the turn signal lever, I can get them to come on. Sometimes when I use the high beams the highs won't work, so I go back to the low. Sometimes the high works but when u go back to low they dont work. It seems to be related to the turn signal level, seems to have a lot of play in it. I have replaced a headlight bulb harness w/ one from 5.0 resto since mine was a little warped from using 80w bulbs, I quickly switched back to 55w, but that was 1 or 2 yrs ago. Is it the turn signal lever and how difficult to change?
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#2 |
Smokes The Dope
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Eldorado, Illinois
Posts: 144
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![]() I had the same problem or similar. If I was on low beams I could hold it on the high beam flash to make it work. The first time I had mine go out on me one night when I was passing an 18 wheeler. Talking about scared shitless. Then I figured out if you give the dash a little slap they would behave. I never really figured out a permanent fix but I guessed it was in the switch. Good luck
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#3 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() UPDATE:
now they dont work at all unless you pull the turn signal level towards you to hold the high beams on, other than that, the regular low and high beams are not coming on anymore. i need some help fast......daily driver
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#4 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() It IS the turn signal/dimmer switch in the column. Not too bad to change, just takes some time is all, nothing major.
DISCONNECT the air bag fuses if your car has air bags. Make sure the wheels are straight before you take anything off. Check with Autozone/Advance first, they may have the switch. If not head to the Ford dealer. Should be around $40 or so last time I bought one.
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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#5 | |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() Quote:
why do the wheels whave to be straight? i will figure out which is the airbag fuse and pull it.
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#6 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() i found this at 50resto.com.
This kit includes: -headlight switch -dimmer switch -headlight and dimmer switch connectors -2 wire terminals -instructions so i need the dimmer switch (with turn signal lever) and dimmer switch connectors?
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#7 |
Factoy Five Roadster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
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![]() Just unhook the battery.
Replace the column switch with the wiper arm. Get a Ford part unless you want to do it again soon.
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Frank |
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#8 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() Yeah, what they said above. It's definitely the switch in the column. I also recommend the Ford part, but if you're in a hurry and need to save a few bucks, check with the usual parts stores. Heck, AZ and those guys might not even carry that one.
The connectors somtimes get "welded" to the switch from the heat of the malfunctioning switch. Old Ford blower speed controllers were good for that. I've seen it on a few HL/Dimmer switches too. That kit sounds like a great deal, all the parts you'll need, then you know you'll have it fixed. I'm 99.9999% positive that it's the switch in the column though. Wheels have to be striaght, so when you put the steering wheel back on, all you have to do is line it up straight. That way you don't end up driving down the road with a crooked steering wheel. ![]() !!!ALSO!!! Even after you disconnect the battery, REMOVE the air bag fuse(s) too! There's a few capacitors in the system that'll still hold a charge and set them off! ![]() Let us know!
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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#9 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() damn i didnt know u have to take the steering wheel off, i hope i can do it, no experience ever taking a wheel off. i guess i will look for the ford part from the dealer.
jester, your saying disconnect both batt cables then touch them together? this will discharge the capacitors immediately? kinda lik disconnecting the neg batt cable and leaving the lights on for 20 min i think..........lemme know thanks everyone
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#10 |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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![]() Ghetto, rent a steering wheel puller from the local parts store. You'll have the wheel off in 5 minutes.
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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![]() If you SLAP the console above the light switch HARD, do that lights come back on? If so, it could be the headlight switch. Just take it out for good measure and look at the back and at the connector. These tend to melt after a while for no reason (or if the previous owner of the car put cheap fogs on and tied that to the HL's). My HL's died in the middle of the night (1 am) in vermont going 75 mph, so there was NO ambient light at all. That was scary as hell:luckily the corner lights gave me just enough light to see the reflective dividers.
Pullin the wheel is easy. The puller is about 10-15 bucks at autozone and the wheel pops off surprisingly easily. MATCHMARK IT! Or you will have a crooked steering wheel that will drive you _crazy_ ![]() Good luck!
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
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#12 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() Yeppers, isolate the battery, and touch the CABLES together. That discharges the system. You MAY see a tiny spark, prolly not, but if you do don't be concerned. Yank the fuse for insurance.
Crazy Pete had some pointers too, mark the splines on the steering wheel, and shaft. No guess work that way. Although I'm opposed to smaking my dashboard (She's faaaaaast, but she's a show car too! LOL) checking the HL switch first is faster and easier than the column switch.
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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#13 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() will check out the headlight switch during my lunchbreak and report back...stupid work
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#14 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() well i pulled out the HL switch. the connector and switch did not have any visible warping/melting/heat damage. see the pics i attached. so i guess i gotta change the multi switch? is that 100% my problem?
and is it necessary to pull the steering wheel of in my 90 GT? thanks.
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#15 | |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
|
![]() Quote:
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#16 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() You're in good shape dude. In that first pic labeled "Time to change this?" Yep. But now the good news. I was thinking my body style, and not thinking your car is newer. Leave the steering wheel on there. See that little torx head screw? Take that out, and the other one on the bottom of the switch. Check around, not positive if there are any more or not. Should come right off though!
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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#17 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() Thanks for all the info Jester and everyone else. The new ford part is $80. I just picked a used one up on ebay for $10, we'll see what happened. If it doesnt work I'll buy another for $10. This worked for my mirror switch........$5 on ebay vs. $40+ new. I'll post results when I get it and install it. Thanks.
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#18 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() got therused multifunction switch today in the mail from ebay, after getting those annoying 3 harness connecter off the multifunction switch, i changed it and it worked! I CAN DRIVE AT NIGHT AGAIN W/O BLINDING PEOPLE with my brights! it was fun while it lasted.............
now, i noticed that one of the 3 connectors had a lot of melting/heat damage. i attached 3 pics. i believe this connector is for the headlights. i blame this, as well as the 1 damaged connector that plugs into the headlight bulb (i replaced it), on those stupid 80w/100w bulbs that were in there in the past. i reused this damaged connector since i had no replacement and it still works. should i change this one day or "if it aint broke dont fix it?"
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#19 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() Change is when you get a minute. Put a fire extinguisher in your car until then.
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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#20 | |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
|
![]() Quote:
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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