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Old 06-02-2003, 06:54 PM   #1
1jimmy__d
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Default proform fan keeps blowing fuse!! HELP ASAP!

my fan keeps blowing the fuse when i turn it off. i waited to see if the fan kicks on after the car was hot and the temp kept going up and up and the fan did not go on. i manually turned it on and when i go and shut it off, it blows the guse each and every time. What could be causing this?? please help- maybe the t-stat on this thing is broken or something too. PLUS the lower brackets didnt fit rightoriginally. the mounting brackets had to be filed down so that it doesn trub the middle part of the radiator!
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 06-03-2003, 12:27 AM   #2
HotRoddin
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Its hard to help without knowing the wiring diagram for that fan circuit but you deffinetly have a wiring error or a short if it blows it that fast. Either that or you're putting a 3 amp fuse in thinking its a 30 or something like that ... recheck everything.
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Old 06-03-2003, 11:49 AM   #3
1jimmy__d
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This is what my mechanic said to me! could someone please respond to all these concerns for me???? THanks



"Jim, I tested out the thermostat bulb(automatic setting), and that activated
the fan fine(actually put in 200 degree water), But in regards to the manual
switch, I am going to have to eliminate the activation light on the switch,
unless I can find a switch that does not use direct ground for light.
In regards to mounting the "Bulb" directly into water of radiator, I
would sure like to know were they put that in , since you are limited in
length of Bulb lead, drilling /Soldering bulb into radiator, and what
effects soldering has on bulb lead tube?"
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 06-03-2003, 03:37 PM   #4
1jimmy__d
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anyone soon? pl4ease!!!!
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 06-05-2003, 12:24 AM   #5
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Are you using a relay?
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Old 06-05-2003, 02:15 AM   #6
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hey Jimmy, any chance you could provide a part # and a link to the manufacturer's website? Mabey they have a schematic we could take a peek at.
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Old 06-05-2003, 11:04 AM   #7
1jimmy__d
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here is what i know (which isnt much about this). the red wire is dosconnected from the fan (this is the one that triggers the temp sensor). now i use the manual switch only. the reason is beacause if the fan turns on by itself and i hit the switch inside the car, the fuse blows. not sure if there is a relay, but the fuse is in place and it was blowing a 15 amp fuse when you turned the fan off manually after it started by itself (again, that is why I only use it manually now). Hope this makes sense, cause it really doesnt to me! Thanks,
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 06-05-2003, 05:54 PM   #8
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Well, I'm not sure how your set-up is wired, but there are a few things I can tell you. First, having a manual switch inside the car is only asking for trouble. The fan should have a temp switch (t-stat), and if it doesn't, or if it's faulty, another can be found at any auto parts store. That should be the only way the fan is turned on, or you can also wire it so that it comes on when the A/C is turned on.

If there is a manual switch installed, it needs to control a relay that supplies power to the fan. Most toggle/rocker switches, especially the ones that light up, can't handle the amps that go through that circuit for very long, and will overheat, and start to melt. This will create a short in the system.

Other than that, without seeing a schematic of how yours is wired, I'm afraid there isn't much more I can tell you.

Take care,
~Chris
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Old 07-09-2003, 06:28 AM   #9
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The Proform fan is an exact copy of the Black Magic fan. Here is the wiring schematic for your fan.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wiring1.jpg (42.4 KB, 29 views)
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Old 07-09-2003, 06:29 AM   #10
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Here is a link to the instructions and wiring detail
Link to the fan write up
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