setting non-adjustable valves

82 GT · 08-27-2003, 08:32 AM

I'm builing a '74 351w with the mods in my sig. below. The machinist says the new valves are the same stem height as the stock ones so the geometry will be the same.
How do you set non-adjustable valves? Is it the same as adjustable hydraulics?

88workcar · 08-27-2003, 11:29 AM

I hope you are asking of how to set the rocker arms. If so, and if they need setting, you have to shim the bottoms.

82 GT · 08-27-2003, 06:26 PM

I'm not sure what you are talking about.

I seem to be running out of adjustment threads on the studs before the slack is even taken out of the rockers.
I'm puzzeled because valve train geometry is the same as when I took it apart. The only difference is that I have larger valves(stems are same size as the stock ones were)

billheis · 08-27-2003, 10:35 PM

I believe that 88 is talking about newer heads that are have bolt down rockers which you put shims under the fulcrum. If you have 74W heads you have studs which weren't adjustable from the factory. However Mr. Gasket, Crane or Comp sell posi-locks, which are just like what come with roller rockers. I believe the thread size is 5/16. What you want to do is get the cam on its base and start tightening down the nut while spinning the pushrod. When all the slack is out go another quarter turn then tighen the allen set screw. I'm also assuming you're still using the rail rockers. After you have everthing set, rotate the engine and make sure the rails on the rockers aren't pushing down on on the retainers. The cam you are using has quite a bit lift and the rail rockers really weren't designed for that much lift. If they contact the retainer it can actually push the retainer down and let the keepers come out and then, well disaster. Hope this helps.
Bill

PKRWUD · 08-28-2003, 12:07 AM

What he said, except I tighten them 3/4 of a turn.

82 GT · 08-28-2003, 08:50 AM

I talked to my machinist tonight yesterday and he said I could possibly have a small base came which would mean I will need longer pushrods. He's going to let me use a set of those polylocks first and see if that helps or not.
He actually came to my house and took a look at my engine.
He still thiinks I need a .100 longer pushrod though.
That would also be another reason why I'm running out of adjustment on the studs.

I thought it was pretty cool of him to stop by my house and help out.

08-27-2003, 08:32 AM	#1
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	setting non-adjustable valves I'm builing a '74 351w with the mods in my sig. below. The machinist says the new valves are the same stem height as the stock ones so the geometry will be the same. How do you set non-adjustable valves? Is it the same as adjustable hydraulics? __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

08-27-2003, 11:29 AM	#2
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	I hope you are asking of how to set the rocker arms. If so, and if they need setting, you have to shim the bottoms. __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

08-27-2003, 06:26 PM	#3
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	I'm not sure what you are talking about. I seem to be running out of adjustment threads on the studs before the slack is even taken out of the rockers. I'm puzzeled because valve train geometry is the same as when I took it apart. The only difference is that I have larger valves(stems are same size as the stock ones were) __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

08-27-2003, 10:35 PM	#4
billheis Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fernandina Beach, FL 32034 Posts: 178	I believe that 88 is talking about newer heads that are have bolt down rockers which you put shims under the fulcrum. If you have 74W heads you have studs which weren't adjustable from the factory. However Mr. Gasket, Crane or Comp sell posi-locks, which are just like what come with roller rockers. I believe the thread size is 5/16. What you want to do is get the cam on its base and start tightening down the nut while spinning the pushrod. When all the slack is out go another quarter turn then tighen the allen set screw. I'm also assuming you're still using the rail rockers. After you have everthing set, rotate the engine and make sure the rails on the rockers aren't pushing down on on the retainers. The cam you are using has quite a bit lift and the rail rockers really weren't designed for that much lift. If they contact the retainer it can actually push the retainer down and let the keepers come out and then, well disaster. Hope this helps. Bill __________________ Bill Heiser 90 Convertable 5.0 LX, ported E7s w/ THumper valve job, TFS street, FR 65mm TB, B cam w/1.7 cobra rockers, kirban AFPR, Mac CAI, Mac Headers, off road h, 3 chamber flows, Crane ign. box, 3:73s, Art Carr AOD & 2600 converter

08-28-2003, 12:07 AM	#5
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	What he said, except I tighten them 3/4 of a turn. __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

08-28-2003, 08:50 AM	#6
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	I talked to my machinist tonight yesterday and he said I could possibly have a small base came which would mean I will need longer pushrods. He's going to let me use a set of those polylocks first and see if that helps or not. He actually came to my house and took a look at my engine. He still thiinks I need a .100 longer pushrod though. That would also be another reason why I'm running out of adjustment on the studs. I thought it was pretty cool of him to stop by my house and help out. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

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