what a mess

Robocop · 02-02-2003, 05:42 AM

I searched this site and found much information on hiding wires but I need to know what wires exactly I can hide.My motor is out awaiting my 331 and man there is a lot of wires in there.Should I wait until my new motor is in before I attempt this in order to make sure all the wires will reach?Do I simply hide the two main bundles on each side of the engine bay?I guess I am asking for what bundles exactly can be tucked away and some good pics would be very helpful.I like the neat look of many of the members motors and I now have much room to work with.I simply cant imagine hiding all these wires.I never knew there were so many until I pulled my motor....thanks in advance for any help

crazypete · 02-02-2003, 10:41 AM

Depends if you're keeping the fuel injection. If you are, then there are so many hoses and wires that it's going to be real difficult to elegantly hide everything. I hid the entire wiring bundle in my drivers side fender, moved the battery to the trunk, carbed the engine, pulled the ac. Basically, there is a motor in the middle of the bay, a brake booster, a radiator and nothing else. No hoses, no wires, no nothing.

I'll get a pic up as soon as I scan them in

Robocop · 02-02-2003, 01:37 PM

I will be keeping my fuel injection as I already have my intake and other stuff.I like fuel injection and have seen a few injected engine bays that look very neat but I just do not see how these guys hide all this crap.I guess it will not hurt to try and I need something to do to pass time while I am waiting for my stroker.Thanks for your help and I will post pics of my progress later...

crazypete · 02-03-2003, 12:07 AM

Well, the trick is to run the wires on the engine into a single bundle. Ok, this is going to suck, but take all of the wiring and cut the plastic wrapping off (that snap tube stuff). Then proceed to peel the cloth tape off. You can easily rebundle the wiring to be much more concise. Rewrap it with conventional electrical tape and run a single bundle down the side of the motor ahead of the drivers side header pipe behind the PS pumpin a single bundle. I actually ran my wiring pack through the sway bar support loop, but you probably will have too much wiring to do that. Move the battery, yes. Get a coil that can mount to the engine or take the coil, starter relay and that big clump of wiring around that area and move it into the fender. This takes a lot of wire cutting and resplicing. Cut the wires that run your headlights and turn signal flashers and run them in front of the radiator and zip tie this pack to the bumper cover supports. You might even be able to move the tab/tab solenoids and the tubing for the charcoal canister into the passenger side fender. Definatley definatley move the wiring pack that runs across the back of the engine bay and move it so that it's down in the transmittion tunnel area. Careful of clearence to the exhaust. I personally did all of this stuff by the way (granted I had less to work on). Oh, and take that ugly vacuum tree and get a long hose and run it into the fender and have the tree back there. I also did this. Very clean enginebay.

Paint the enginebay a single color. I chose black. Makes everything blend in and your shiny engine stick out!

Robocop · 02-03-2003, 04:03 AM

Well I thank you for the info...it is exactly what I needed to know.Will I have any problems with moisture in the spliced areas as they will be outside of the engine bay?Also will you be able to see the bundle of wires in the fenderwell area when looking from the side of my car?This 331 thing is taking more time and money than I planned so I got lots of time to work while the engine is out.I would love to see some close up pics and also is there any wires that I can just remove completely?All the help is greatly appreciated as I am just realizing how complicated this little project of mine has become.

Mach 1 · 02-03-2003, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Robocop
.Will I have any problems with moisture in the spliced areas as they will be outside of the engine bay?

You shouldnt if you do it right. Use professional grade butt splices and heat shrink wrap it, then put electrical tape over that, then put it in a wire loom...aint no water gonna bother nothing...

crazypete · 02-06-2003, 07:38 PM

Not sure it will help that much as I'm running a carb, but here is my enginebay pics. Notice how you can see the coil through the fenderwall. I really cleaned it up. Painting everything helps tons

Robocop · 02-07-2003, 02:14 AM

Your engine bay is very nice and I am hoping for the same but it seems like a huge project.I am trying to just sort out all the wires now but it is a puzzle to me.I had a Clifford alarm installed in 1992 and am scrapping the system but I am having trouble tracing all the interior wires.I also cut the hoses to my smog pump as it is also being scrapped.I need to know what to do with the two hoses in this pic.I will try to post a pic.but I am about as good with this camera as I am with building a motor so this may not work.....

Robocop · 02-07-2003, 02:26 AM

As you can see I got a huge mess there but I got to start somewhere.I am lucky to have a heated garage with lots of room and time is no object however money is.How high does my car have to be in order to remove the trans from underneath?It is on jacks stands with the tires about 6 inches off the ground.You cant really tell from this pic.but my body is perfect shape and I want to hide the wires without removing the fenders.Can this also be done?

Robocop · 02-07-2003, 02:33 AM

I am learning as I go so any help is appreciated.I am keeping my a/c but am glad to be rid of the smog pump.The pump seemed to be built as a bracket and I am wondering do I have to use the eliminator bracket to make this work.?Also what sensors can I remove from the engine bay that are associated to the smog equipment.I read that some large sensors on the passenger side can go but I dont know which ones????As you can tell by this pic I got a mess and a long way to go

Mach 1 · 02-07-2003, 04:35 AM

I have a FRPP smog pump eliminator bracket for sale if your interested, e-mail me.

Tony Frank · 02-07-2003, 11:10 AM

just bundle all the wires up in one loom. thats what i did check it out. http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...dia.cgi?1501+1 of course i got rid of all the smog stuff and a lot of vaccum lines. make sure you get a manual so you dont get rid of anything you need..

ChunkFunky · 02-07-2003, 11:46 AM

that's a nice engine compartment.... though I think he's still going EFi, wich I am as well. Though I can imagine, there's alot of stuff once can get rid of. What can be ditched without effecting emmissions
-as

crazypete · 02-07-2003, 12:51 PM

I removed a tranny with just a pair of jackstands, but a 2 ton jack would be enough with a piece of wood sandwhich inbetween to give enough clearance if you take off one of the wheels. For wiring with the fenders in place, just rip out the fenderwells. If they've never been out, it's an excercise in wrestling and fighting some really well rusted in screws. I actually did all that without removing the fender. Keeping the A/c is going to leave a lot of tubing in place, but try painting it the same color as the rest of the bay. If you're really a nut, you can disconnect the a/c hoses and try to run extensions inside the fender but this would be a task and a half. I have had the smog pump off without an elimanator bracket and no complaints. You can get a bracket from march thats much lighter than the stock unit and it has a tensioner. Nice and chromey too. Switch the valve covers! This puts that ugly filler neck to the back of the bay (see my pic above).

I honestly have no idea what the leftmost hose in that pic is! Make sure to pull off the crossover pipe behind the heads as long as the smogpump is coming off. Put two bolts in there and shlack them with rtv silicone. Keeps them from popping out. Rip that foam shielding off the tubes too and paint it white. Use duplicolor engine enamel. Comes out completely shiny.

crazypete · 02-07-2003, 12:58 PM

Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention....

If anything manages to come off the engine, use it as an excuse to drag that part inside, clean it, polish it and paint it! Have a color theme! Blue would go nice with your white enginebay. Use ford blue. Get some blue silicone hoses to top it off and some chrome trim.

When you get a piece off (like your valve cover, for instance) use fast-orange hand cleaner (or some other variant of cirtrus soap). Takes the grease off like scary. Dont pour out what you have already used, keep it in a bucket and soak stuff in it overnight! I use steel wool (actually a synthetic "red" steel wool made of some kind of plastic) for the final polishing phase. For a red color: get chevy orange and use it as a basecoat, then while it's still tacky, paint over it with ford red. Makes the most intense red color ever!

02-02-2003, 05:42 AM	#1
Robocop Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Birmingham, Al Posts: 65	what a mess I searched this site and found much information on hiding wires but I need to know what wires exactly I can hide.My motor is out awaiting my 331 and man there is a lot of wires in there.Should I wait until my new motor is in before I attempt this in order to make sure all the wires will reach?Do I simply hide the two main bundles on each side of the engine bay?I guess I am asking for what bundles exactly can be tucked away and some good pics would be very helpful.I like the neat look of many of the members motors and I now have much room to work with.I simply cant imagine hiding all these wires.I never knew there were so many until I pulled my motor....thanks in advance for any help __________________ 1992 G.T. oxford white

02-02-2003, 10:41 AM	#2
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Depends if you're keeping the fuel injection. If you are, then there are so many hoses and wires that it's going to be real difficult to elegantly hide everything. I hid the entire wiring bundle in my drivers side fender, moved the battery to the trunk, carbed the engine, pulled the ac. Basically, there is a motor in the middle of the bay, a brake booster, a radiator and nothing else. No hoses, no wires, no nothing. I'll get a pic up as soon as I scan them in __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

02-02-2003, 01:37 PM	#3
Robocop Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Birmingham, Al Posts: 65	I will be keeping my fuel injection as I already have my intake and other stuff.I like fuel injection and have seen a few injected engine bays that look very neat but I just do not see how these guys hide all this crap.I guess it will not hurt to try and I need something to do to pass time while I am waiting for my stroker.Thanks for your help and I will post pics of my progress later... __________________ 1992 G.T. oxford white

02-03-2003, 12:07 AM	#4
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Well, the trick is to run the wires on the engine into a single bundle. Ok, this is going to suck, but take all of the wiring and cut the plastic wrapping off (that snap tube stuff). Then proceed to peel the cloth tape off. You can easily rebundle the wiring to be much more concise. Rewrap it with conventional electrical tape and run a single bundle down the side of the motor ahead of the drivers side header pipe behind the PS pumpin a single bundle. I actually ran my wiring pack through the sway bar support loop, but you probably will have too much wiring to do that. Move the battery, yes. Get a coil that can mount to the engine or take the coil, starter relay and that big clump of wiring around that area and move it into the fender. This takes a lot of wire cutting and resplicing. Cut the wires that run your headlights and turn signal flashers and run them in front of the radiator and zip tie this pack to the bumper cover supports. You might even be able to move the tab/tab solenoids and the tubing for the charcoal canister into the passenger side fender. Definatley definatley move the wiring pack that runs across the back of the engine bay and move it so that it's down in the transmittion tunnel area. Careful of clearence to the exhaust. I personally did all of this stuff by the way (granted I had less to work on). Oh, and take that ugly vacuum tree and get a long hose and run it into the fender and have the tree back there. I also did this. Very clean enginebay. Paint the enginebay a single color. I chose black. Makes everything blend in and your shiny engine stick out! __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

02-03-2003, 04:03 AM	#5
Robocop Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Birmingham, Al Posts: 65	Well I thank you for the info...it is exactly what I needed to know.Will I have any problems with moisture in the spliced areas as they will be outside of the engine bay?Also will you be able to see the bundle of wires in the fenderwell area when looking from the side of my car?This 331 thing is taking more time and money than I planned so I got lots of time to work while the engine is out.I would love to see some close up pics and also is there any wires that I can just remove completely?All the help is greatly appreciated as I am just realizing how complicated this little project of mine has become. __________________ 1992 G.T. oxford white

02-07-2003, 04:35 AM	#11
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I have a FRPP smog pump eliminator bracket for sale if your interested, e-mail me. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

02-07-2003, 11:10 AM	#12
Tony Frank Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Brooklyn originally, but Grand Rapids now Posts: 309	just bundle all the wires up in one loom. thats what i did check it out. http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...dia.cgi?1501+1 of course i got rid of all the smog stuff and a lot of vaccum lines. make sure you get a manual so you dont get rid of anything you need.. __________________ Grand Valley State University Senior Accounting and Finance Major 1985 Mustang GT 19,000 ORIGINAL miles, E-303 cam, edelbrock performer RPM intake, holley 600 cfm carb, MAC headers, windage tray, 8.8 rear end with 4.10 gears, 4"cowl hood, 5lug conversion, 04 Mach1 wheels. http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?1501

02-07-2003, 11:46 AM	#13
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	that's a nice engine compartment.... though I think he's still going EFi, wich I am as well. Though I can imagine, there's alot of stuff once can get rid of. What can be ditched without effecting emmissions -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

02-07-2003, 12:51 PM	#14
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	I removed a tranny with just a pair of jackstands, but a 2 ton jack would be enough with a piece of wood sandwhich inbetween to give enough clearance if you take off one of the wheels. For wiring with the fenders in place, just rip out the fenderwells. If they've never been out, it's an excercise in wrestling and fighting some really well rusted in screws. I actually did all that without removing the fender. Keeping the A/c is going to leave a lot of tubing in place, but try painting it the same color as the rest of the bay. If you're really a nut, you can disconnect the a/c hoses and try to run extensions inside the fender but this would be a task and a half. I have had the smog pump off without an elimanator bracket and no complaints. You can get a bracket from march thats much lighter than the stock unit and it has a tensioner. Nice and chromey too. Switch the valve covers! This puts that ugly filler neck to the back of the bay (see my pic above). I honestly have no idea what the leftmost hose in that pic is! Make sure to pull off the crossover pipe behind the heads as long as the smogpump is coming off. Put two bolts in there and shlack them with rtv silicone. Keeps them from popping out. Rip that foam shielding off the tubes too and paint it white. Use duplicolor engine enamel. Comes out completely shiny. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

02-07-2003, 12:58 PM	#15
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention.... If anything manages to come off the engine, use it as an excuse to drag that part inside, clean it, polish it and paint it! Have a color theme! Blue would go nice with your white enginebay. Use ford blue. Get some blue silicone hoses to top it off and some chrome trim. When you get a piece off (like your valve cover, for instance) use fast-orange hand cleaner (or some other variant of cirtrus soap). Takes the grease off like scary. Dont pour out what you have already used, keep it in a bucket and soak stuff in it overnight! I use steel wool (actually a synthetic "red" steel wool made of some kind of plastic) for the final polishing phase. For a red color: get chevy orange and use it as a basecoat, then while it's still tacky, paint over it with ford red. Makes the most intense red color ever! __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

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