Rear Disk Brake Kit

gtsr515 · 04-03-2002, 03:54 PM

To those who have it, do you think it's worth it?

If not, what do you suggest?

Thanks!

fiveohpatrol · 04-03-2002, 04:04 PM

I dont have one, so i cant give you any personal experience on it, so sorry about that.

But, I do remember reading an article on some place that sells a kit from wrecked SN95's with resurfaced rotors and some new parts for what seemed to be a really good price. The install looked pretty straightforward as well.
I'll look through my stack of magazines and try to find it.

Or are you looking for a high-dollar kit like Brembo or Bear or what?

good luck,
-Drew

LOWKEY · 04-03-2002, 04:13 PM

Truthfully...No..

The front brakes do over 75% of the cars braking. Upgrade them first. I did the rear disk conversion because drums don't look good at all with cobra r's.

http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

EVLHRSE · 04-03-2002, 04:47 PM

Looks good and worth every cent. Drums are ugly, so the slotted or cross drilled rotors are awesome...Depending on your wheels, they cool much better and my kit from SSB is worth every cent. The only thing I didn't do myself was install the caliper mounting brackets. My motor guy did that when he changed my rear end...i.e.gears...Auburn...Moser...WORTH EVERY PENNY....

ultraflo · 04-03-2002, 05:11 PM

If you want to go top-notch (and get stupid with your dough), I recommend a Baer setup. I ran a 4 wheel disc setup with a manual conversion for about a year before deciding to make it a drag car (replaced the HEAVY Baer setup with the LIGHT Aerospace 4 whl. disc setup).

The Baer kit is of the throw you through the windshield stop on a dime variety, and I have not tried out the Aerospace setup yet.

I opted for the front sport/rear rod&drag with slotted, cross drilled, and zinc washed rotors (excellent kit and VERY complete)

Here is a shot of the car before getting it fired up in 2000 (notice the lack of weight in the back due to no gas tank/gas)

How about those ridiculously LOW hanging Bassani headers, I went round and round with those guys to get a better set and eventually did!!

Was it worth the money? Man I hate to answer, but yes!!
I hope to say the same about the Aerospace...

Coupe Devil · 04-03-2002, 05:21 PM

Try this to, its a cheaper alternative to the expensive disc brake kits availible. Its totally affordable and you can get the parts at your local parts store.

Rear Brake Link

I like this alot for the ease of install and price...

Brad

DaveR_GT · 04-03-2002, 05:32 PM

I bought my car with the conversion already installed.

Personally other than looks I can't say it is worth it.

I'm not impressed with the way my car stops. I think there may be something not quite right or not adjusted correctly with my brakes...

ultraflo · 04-03-2002, 05:39 PM

You get what you pay for...

It's really that simple!

The Baer kit is a whole new program compared to stock 4 wheel disc setups.

You need to modify the distribution block to allow more pressure to get to the rear for proper performance. Drum brakes work with less pressure, and simply bolting up a set of rear discs will not get the job done.

I can scan and post the mod according to Baer if anyone is interested...

gtsr515 · 04-03-2002, 05:47 PM

I should have been more specific, is the "motorsport" kit worth it?

Sounds like NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

DaveR_GT · 04-04-2002, 07:00 AM

Yes ULTRAFLOW please post it.

BTW, my conversion kit is Stainless Steel Brakes kit. The kit does include a different master cylinder and an adjustable proportioning valve. I can adjust the valve in or out and it doesn't seem to make any noticable difference.

Thanks

ultraflo · 04-04-2002, 12:02 PM

Here's the instructions for modifying the distribution block to get more pressure to the rear (this is where your adj. proportioning valve comes in handy)

Let me know if you have any questions, I did the mods and installed the system myself. The Baer kit is one of the more complete systems out there (no trips to the hardware store/speed shop). Rather, I did have to go buy fluid.

My dad bought a rear disc conversion via SSB for his BIG Chevy 4x4 (rolls all four 38's over effortlessly) and is NOT impressed with their stuff (his opinion). It has been giving him fits getting it to work better than his old drum setup...
He has yet to do so.

Anyhow, here ya go!

DaveR_GT · 04-05-2002, 08:15 PM

Okay, is what they are saying is to change the line currently coming out of the bottom to where nut A is pictured?

What about where the illustration says to remove the spring and whatever the other arrow is pointing at? But the instructions don't say anything about that.

Is the illustration showing the before or after?

I have made a few changes to my system. Not to the combination valve itself.

I just installed a line lock. I took the line coming from the master cylinder to the front brakes and connected it to the top of the combo valve. Out the bottom of the combo valve and into the line lock, then tee off and to each front wheel.

So what are the actual changes to the combo valve?

ultraflo · 04-05-2002, 09:01 PM

All you need to do is remove the spring and the rubber washer. Then you can use the proportioning valve to adj. the pressure to the rear system.

Hope this helps, let me know how it works out for you.

Ryan

DaveR_GT · 04-05-2002, 11:12 PM

Thanks,

I'll let you know for sure, but it'll be a few weeks before it's on the road. Got a leaking water pump to fix and have to figure out an exhaust system for the new long tube headers, then see if it'll pass inspection...

04-03-2002, 03:54 PM	#1
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	Rear Disk Brake Kit To those who have it, do you think it's worth it? If not, what do you suggest? Thanks! __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

04-03-2002, 04:04 PM	#2
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	I dont have one, so i cant give you any personal experience on it, so sorry about that. But, I do remember reading an article on some place that sells a kit from wrecked SN95's with resurfaced rotors and some new parts for what seemed to be a really good price. The install looked pretty straightforward as well. I'll look through my stack of magazines and try to find it. Or are you looking for a high-dollar kit like Brembo or Bear or what? good luck, -Drew __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

04-03-2002, 04:13 PM	#3
LOWKEY Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: greenvile, NC Posts: 161	Truthfully...No.. The front brakes do over 75% of the cars braking. Upgrade them first. I did the rear disk conversion because drums don't look good at all with cobra r's. http://svo73mm.cjb.net/ __________________ 89' Notch Stroked Poked & BLOWN low 11's and it goes around corners too Parts for Sale!! http://www.lowkey.stangnet.com/catalog.html

04-03-2002, 04:47 PM	#4
EVLHRSE Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Mundelein, IL Posts: 40	Looks good and worth every cent. Drums are ugly, so the slotted or cross drilled rotors are awesome...Depending on your wheels, they cool much better and my kit from SSB is worth every cent. The only thing I didn't do myself was install the caliper mounting brackets. My motor guy did that when he changed my rear end...i.e.gears...Auburn...Moser...WORTH EVERY PENNY.... __________________ 306, Cobra Intake, wolverine cam, Tremec TKO, Centerforce DF & billet flwheel, NOS Big Shot Nitrous, Purge for the pussies that call is Noz, Edelebrock Performer RPM aluminum heads, griffin radiator, ten point cage, Autometer up the @ss, Suspension by Maximun Motorsports $$$, Richmond 3:55's, Auburn Pro w/ 31 spline Mosers, alum. drvshft, Powerslots, 73mm calipers, ss lines, rear disc conversion, You get the drift,,,

04-03-2002, 05:11 PM	#5
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	If you want to go top-notch (and get stupid with your dough), I recommend a Baer setup. I ran a 4 wheel disc setup with a manual conversion for about a year before deciding to make it a drag car (replaced the HEAVY Baer setup with the LIGHT Aerospace 4 whl. disc setup). The Baer kit is of the throw you through the windshield stop on a dime variety, and I have not tried out the Aerospace setup yet. I opted for the front sport/rear rod&drag with slotted, cross drilled, and zinc washed rotors (excellent kit and VERY complete) Here is a shot of the car before getting it fired up in 2000 (notice the lack of weight in the back due to no gas tank/gas) How about those ridiculously LOW hanging Bassani headers, I went round and round with those guys to get a better set and eventually did!! Was it worth the money? Man I hate to answer, but yes!! I hope to say the same about the Aerospace... __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

04-03-2002, 05:21 PM	#6
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	Try this to, its a cheaper alternative to the expensive disc brake kits availible. Its totally affordable and you can get the parts at your local parts store. Rear Brake Link I like this alot for the ease of install and price... Brad __________________ 1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator

04-03-2002, 05:32 PM	#7
DaveR_GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: W. Springfield, PA Posts: 65	I bought my car with the conversion already installed. Personally other than looks I can't say it is worth it. I'm not impressed with the way my car stops. I think there may be something not quite right or not adjusted correctly with my brakes... __________________ '92 GT conv. TFS heads, GT40, Powerdyne 9#, AOD, 3.73 My Mustang Page

04-03-2002, 05:39 PM	#8
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	You get what you pay for... It's really that simple! The Baer kit is a whole new program compared to stock 4 wheel disc setups. You need to modify the distribution block to allow more pressure to get to the rear for proper performance. Drum brakes work with less pressure, and simply bolting up a set of rear discs will not get the job done. I can scan and post the mod according to Baer if anyone is interested... __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

04-03-2002, 05:47 PM	#9
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	I should have been more specific, is the "motorsport" kit worth it? Sounds like NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

04-04-2002, 07:00 AM	#10
DaveR_GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: W. Springfield, PA Posts: 65	Yes ULTRAFLOW please post it. BTW, my conversion kit is Stainless Steel Brakes kit. The kit does include a different master cylinder and an adjustable proportioning valve. I can adjust the valve in or out and it doesn't seem to make any noticable difference. Thanks __________________ '92 GT conv. TFS heads, GT40, Powerdyne 9#, AOD, 3.73 My Mustang Page

04-04-2002, 12:02 PM	#11
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	Instructions Attached... Here's the instructions for modifying the distribution block to get more pressure to the rear (this is where your adj. proportioning valve comes in handy) Let me know if you have any questions, I did the mods and installed the system myself. The Baer kit is one of the more complete systems out there (no trips to the hardware store/speed shop). Rather, I did have to go buy fluid. My dad bought a rear disc conversion via SSB for his BIG Chevy 4x4 (rolls all four 38's over effortlessly) and is NOT impressed with their stuff (his opinion). It has been giving him fits getting it to work better than his old drum setup... He has yet to do so. Anyhow, here ya go! __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph Last edited by ultraflo; 04-04-2002 at 12:21 PM..

04-05-2002, 08:15 PM	#12
DaveR_GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: W. Springfield, PA Posts: 65	Okay, is what they are saying is to change the line currently coming out of the bottom to where nut A is pictured? What about where the illustration says to remove the spring and whatever the other arrow is pointing at? But the instructions don't say anything about that. Is the illustration showing the before or after? I have made a few changes to my system. Not to the combination valve itself. I just installed a line lock. I took the line coming from the master cylinder to the front brakes and connected it to the top of the combo valve. Out the bottom of the combo valve and into the line lock, then tee off and to each front wheel. So what are the actual changes to the combo valve? __________________ '92 GT conv. TFS heads, GT40, Powerdyne 9#, AOD, 3.73 My Mustang Page

04-05-2002, 09:01 PM	#13
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	All you need to do is remove the spring and the rubber washer. Then you can use the proportioning valve to adj. the pressure to the rear system. Hope this helps, let me know how it works out for you. Ryan __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

04-05-2002, 11:12 PM	#14
DaveR_GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: W. Springfield, PA Posts: 65	Thanks, I'll let you know for sure, but it'll be a few weeks before it's on the road. Got a leaking water pump to fix and have to figure out an exhaust system for the new long tube headers, then see if it'll pass inspection... __________________ '92 GT conv. TFS heads, GT40, Powerdyne 9#, AOD, 3.73 My Mustang Page

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