Got damaged AOD, How scrood am I?

crazypete · 10-23-2003, 09:25 PM

Looks like this AOD got BASHED in transit. The bellhousing drivers side where the lowest bolt goes has a huge crack off it and it looks like the thickest input shaft snapped off cause this tard shipped it with the torque converter attached STILL FULL OF OIL!!! I assume the aod is the same way. Now I was thinking that chip could simply be welded back on and the shaft looks easy enough to replace since I am replacing the band anyway. Hey, is that thinnest shaft supposed to slide right out? Any words of wisdom are appreciated as I'm not thrilled to scrap it. Maybe this is a good impetus for a rebuild. Oh yeah, the f'ing foam dots all inside everything is a nice touch. Especially when ups center called me telling me that the box had the wrong name with the wrong address and the box was 75 lbs overweight and they wouldnt deliver it cause there was oil leaking out of the box!

Weeeeeeee!

stang_racer20 · 10-23-2003, 09:38 PM

yes the inner shaft is supposed to slide out.

crazypete · 10-23-2003, 11:08 PM

The big question here, it would seem, is can that chip be welded back on and will it have any strength if done so since it IS one of the 6 primary bolts holding the whole mess on?

stang_racer20 · 10-23-2003, 11:31 PM

i suppose it would be ok as long as the welds are perfect using the proper aluminum welding rods and the mating surface is flush. your best bet if you wanna know for sure is to call a trans shop and ask em. in fact give lentech a call since they are AOD goo-roos!

Jeff Chambers · 10-24-2003, 06:52 AM

I wouldn't even attempt to weld it back in. If you've got the tranny torn down to replace the broken input shaft (and drum), then you've got it down far enough to just stuff the internals into another casing. Imagine this: what if when you're done welding it, that area is 0.005" out (towards the block) from the rest of the surface? Think the trans will be aligned properly? Its just not worth the effort IMHO. You should be able to find a good casing for cheap at a scrap yard or local trans shop. I personnaly would reject shipment altogether and get a refund. You didn't get 'scrood', but you did get 'screwed'.

crazypete · 10-24-2003, 08:04 AM

oooooh the migraine!

And my "parts" for it just arrived. I'm now itching to install my transgo kit with nothing to install it in. So, mr chambers, you feel that the depth is the only issue here and not the strength of the weld. It's a clean chip so it will fit back in perfectly and I guess welds to add to the height of the outside and inside of the bellhousing where there is plenty of room to accept them. Plus I dont think anyone has just "cases" for AOD's lying around (though I'm happy to be wrong in this case).

Jeff Chambers · 10-24-2003, 09:43 AM

Remember that for it to be welded back in, they are going to have to 'prep' the pieces; probably by grinding the edges so that they've got a V to start filling with weld filler. Also remember that the welding will create shrinkage in the materials so those finished surfaces (block to bell) aren't going to be perfectly matched in the end.

Last time I was at my friend's transmission shop, he had two AOD casings in the scrap heap. So look around, you may be able to find a good casing easier than you think. Go ahead and slap it back together if you want, but be prepared to face the consequences of doing so. They may not be probable, but they are possible.

crazypete · 10-24-2003, 02:57 PM

ok guys, I'm totally beat, just spent the day driving around. The boneyard nearby (mustang specialty place) gave me an older aod with identical case (part ## pka-cb15 blah blah which seems to be a mercury marquis 86 AOD) with a pushrod type TV. I also picked up a rebuild kit on the way home and now I am wondering if maybe I should just bolt up the cb15 instead of bothering to do the innard swap. Or maybe just rebuild the 86 tranmission instead. The pan has a dent but not an enourmous one but I have to wait for everyone to get home so we can collectively lift it and carry it into the house and I can compare.

mustangII460 · 10-24-2003, 04:10 PM

As stated above, don't weld.

If your cost gets around $500. I have a new rebuild, lonely in my basement.

crazypete · 10-25-2003, 10:35 PM

3 more questions for all the AOD nuts out there (and thanks in advance guys)

1. Can I paint a transmission?

2. What's the accepted method of removing the front pump plate (that black plate up front). The 86 AOD plate is stuck quite nicely. Is it possible to tap at the tailshaft maybe after dropping the valvebody? I assume it's not torchable

3. The 86 AOD has the rod type TV. The 87 AOD has the whole spring loaded contraption of a TV assembly that bolts to the EFI TB. Which would you guys use if given the choice and hooking to a holley? Would the marquis valve body be a lesser one compared to a mustang's?

Thanks guys!

P.S. disassembly an AOD is outright fun compared to the horror of trying to disassemble a T5

stang_racer20 · 10-26-2003, 04:03 AM

yes you can paint a trans, buts its not suggested. i did mine. there are 2 reasons they say your not suppose to. one is because the trans needs to "breath", but thats why an AOD or any other trans, has breathing ports on it. the second is cause it keeps in more heat, which is the number one killer of the AOD. But as long as you run a nice trans cooler, which i am, there should be no big issues.

Jeff Chambers · 10-26-2003, 07:59 AM

There should be a couple of threaded holes in the pump that are for using jack screws to pull the pump from the casing. Definitely don't torch it and beating on the tailshaft might damage the pump & internals.

crazypete · 10-26-2003, 10:05 AM

Wow! That kinda sucked but thanks for telling me about the puller threads. Now here's my next question: should the smallest input shaft (I wish I had an exploded view with labels so I knew the technical terms for all these parts) be sticking waaay out or be seated. The 87 aod's shaft simply wont slide in all the way regardless of my coercing. I attached a picture with the 87 on the right.

Also , I pulled the tailshaft housing and I noticed the peg that engages when it is in park basically rests on the bottom of it's tunnel until you put it in park at which point it snaps up and out. Should it be sagging or is this an indication of a seal or guide going bad?

I dont know what I'd do without you guys!

Have a great weekend all!

crazypete · 10-26-2003, 10:55 AM

Found this floating around at the bottom of the pan and doesnt appear on any of my diagrams. What is this piece?

stang_racer20 · 10-26-2003, 03:08 PM

the end of the splines on the inner input shaft(removable) should be even with the beginning of the splines of the outer input shaft.

that piece in your pan looks like the factory dipstick plug, which is used by the factory to prevent foreign debrees from going into the pan upon original assembly.

rwhite65 · 10-27-2003, 03:21 AM

finding that plug in the pan is a good indication the transmission it came off of has not been rebuilt....or messed with in any serious way...usually.
Ryan

crazypete · 10-27-2003, 08:40 AM

It's been messed with now! =P (HA HA!)

I'm even drilling it! Lets hope it shifts at all after this transgo kit. Something about drilling holes and throwing away parts disturbs the technical side of me.

Last wave of questions then it all goes back together and I'll shut up.

1. I was supposed to find a little spring wedged torwards the top of the planetary gear drum (middle cluster) on the outside, right?

2. With my finger (or hell, prying with a screwdriver), I should be able to effect movement of some kind on the OD band servo (valve thing) , right? The peg that pushes on the OD band notch. It was STUCK. No motion at all. I extracted the ring and had to tap it with a mallet to effect it's release from it's seat after removing the OD cluster using my mad rotation and twisting skills.

Ok! That's all my burning questions!!

Thanks all!

stang_racer20 · 10-27-2003, 01:22 PM

Yes there should be a small spring located between the gears and the case in like a v-shape, about half way down. make sure it goes back in right. sometimes after a while it will wear a groove into the planatery shell, you'll want to have that groove welded in, then grind it down flush again. because that would cause spring failure.

rwhite65 · 10-27-2003, 01:38 PM

ok, are you asking if you should be able to push the OD servo in after reinstalling it? As for as pushing it in after reinstaling it....should be kinda hard...there is a lot of tension on that spring. But then again I have an A+ in mine....but I remember the stock one still being pretty hard.

As far as when you removed it....not sure I have a good picture of that one, kinda sounds like you removed it differently then I did mine.
Ryan

crazypete · 10-27-2003, 02:40 PM

well, on basically all 3 of the "valves", I tried 2 things (neither with any effect, really). I would push on the face of the valve and no effect. I could see it move maybe maybe a millimeter if that. Next I pried from the bottom upward on the peg half of it and once again, no cheese. I could see the fluid bulge out a bit as if maybe a millimeter of movement had happened. When I pulled off the retaining ring around the face and pushed up to my surprise it still had no range of motion at all. I then tapped it gently but firmly with a huge mallet and it popped out. I dont know much about AOD's but that just doesnt seem right. I dont see how it can compress the band if the peg doesnt telescope from the housing.

This transmission, I know for a fact that it sat for years unused. The inside looked pristine.

10-23-2003, 09:38 PM	#2
stang_racer20 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 348	yes the inner shaft is supposed to slide out. __________________ 92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears.

10-23-2003, 11:08 PM	#3
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	The big question here, it would seem, is can that chip be welded back on and will it have any strength if done so since it IS one of the 6 primary bolts holding the whole mess on? __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

10-23-2003, 11:31 PM	#4
stang_racer20 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 348	i suppose it would be ok as long as the welds are perfect using the proper aluminum welding rods and the mating surface is flush. your best bet if you wanna know for sure is to call a trans shop and ask em. in fact give lentech a call since they are AOD goo-roos! __________________ 92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears.

10-24-2003, 06:52 AM	#5
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	I wouldn't even attempt to weld it back in. If you've got the tranny torn down to replace the broken input shaft (and drum), then you've got it down far enough to just stuff the internals into another casing. Imagine this: what if when you're done welding it, that area is 0.005" out (towards the block) from the rest of the surface? Think the trans will be aligned properly? Its just not worth the effort IMHO. You should be able to find a good casing for cheap at a scrap yard or local trans shop. I personnaly would reject shipment altogether and get a refund. You didn't get 'scrood', but you did get 'screwed'. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

10-24-2003, 08:04 AM	#6
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	oooooh the migraine! And my "parts" for it just arrived. I'm now itching to install my transgo kit with nothing to install it in. So, mr chambers, you feel that the depth is the only issue here and not the strength of the weld. It's a clean chip so it will fit back in perfectly and I guess welds to add to the height of the outside and inside of the bellhousing where there is plenty of room to accept them. Plus I dont think anyone has just "cases" for AOD's lying around (though I'm happy to be wrong in this case). __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

10-24-2003, 09:43 AM	#7
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Remember that for it to be welded back in, they are going to have to 'prep' the pieces; probably by grinding the edges so that they've got a V to start filling with weld filler. Also remember that the welding will create shrinkage in the materials so those finished surfaces (block to bell) aren't going to be perfectly matched in the end. Last time I was at my friend's transmission shop, he had two AOD casings in the scrap heap. So look around, you may be able to find a good casing easier than you think. Go ahead and slap it back together if you want, but be prepared to face the consequences of doing so. They may not be probable, but they are possible. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

10-24-2003, 02:57 PM	#8
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	ok guys, I'm totally beat, just spent the day driving around. The boneyard nearby (mustang specialty place) gave me an older aod with identical case (part ## pka-cb15 blah blah which seems to be a mercury marquis 86 AOD) with a pushrod type TV. I also picked up a rebuild kit on the way home and now I am wondering if maybe I should just bolt up the cb15 instead of bothering to do the innard swap. Or maybe just rebuild the 86 tranmission instead. The pan has a dent but not an enourmous one but I have to wait for everyone to get home so we can collectively lift it and carry it into the house and I can compare. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

10-24-2003, 04:10 PM	#9
mustangII460 Factoy Five Roadster Join Date: May 2000 Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee Posts: 1,681	As stated above, don't weld. If your cost gets around $500. I have a new rebuild, lonely in my basement.

10-25-2003, 10:35 PM	#10
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	3 more questions for all the AOD nuts out there (and thanks in advance guys) 1. Can I paint a transmission? 2. What's the accepted method of removing the front pump plate (that black plate up front). The 86 AOD plate is stuck quite nicely. Is it possible to tap at the tailshaft maybe after dropping the valvebody? I assume it's not torchable 3. The 86 AOD has the rod type TV. The 87 AOD has the whole spring loaded contraption of a TV assembly that bolts to the EFI TB. Which would you guys use if given the choice and hooking to a holley? Would the marquis valve body be a lesser one compared to a mustang's? Thanks guys! P.S. disassembly an AOD is outright fun compared to the horror of trying to disassemble a T5 __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

10-26-2003, 04:03 AM	#11
stang_racer20 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 348	yes you can paint a trans, buts its not suggested. i did mine. there are 2 reasons they say your not suppose to. one is because the trans needs to "breath", but thats why an AOD or any other trans, has breathing ports on it. the second is cause it keeps in more heat, which is the number one killer of the AOD. But as long as you run a nice trans cooler, which i am, there should be no big issues. __________________ 92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears.

10-26-2003, 07:59 AM	#12
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	There should be a couple of threaded holes in the pump that are for using jack screws to pull the pump from the casing. Definitely don't torch it and beating on the tailshaft might damage the pump & internals. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

10-26-2003, 03:08 PM	#15
stang_racer20 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 348	the end of the splines on the inner input shaft(removable) should be even with the beginning of the splines of the outer input shaft. that piece in your pan looks like the factory dipstick plug, which is used by the factory to prevent foreign debrees from going into the pan upon original assembly. __________________ 92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears.

10-27-2003, 03:21 AM	#16
rwhite65 Ride Hard Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Wyoming IL Posts: 1,094	finding that plug in the pan is a good indication the transmission it came off of has not been rebuilt....or messed with in any serious way...usually. Ryan __________________ 65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored

10-27-2003, 08:40 AM	#17
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	It's been messed with now! =P (HA HA!) I'm even drilling it! Lets hope it shifts at all after this transgo kit. Something about drilling holes and throwing away parts disturbs the technical side of me. Last wave of questions then it all goes back together and I'll shut up. 1. I was supposed to find a little spring wedged torwards the top of the planetary gear drum (middle cluster) on the outside, right? 2. With my finger (or hell, prying with a screwdriver), I should be able to effect movement of some kind on the OD band servo (valve thing) , right? The peg that pushes on the OD band notch. It was STUCK. No motion at all. I extracted the ring and had to tap it with a mallet to effect it's release from it's seat after removing the OD cluster using my mad rotation and twisting skills. Ok! That's all my burning questions!! Thanks all! __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

10-27-2003, 01:22 PM	#18
stang_racer20 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 348	Yes there should be a small spring located between the gears and the case in like a v-shape, about half way down. make sure it goes back in right. sometimes after a while it will wear a groove into the planatery shell, you'll want to have that groove welded in, then grind it down flush again. because that would cause spring failure. __________________ 92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears.

10-27-2003, 01:38 PM	#19
rwhite65 Ride Hard Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Wyoming IL Posts: 1,094	ok, are you asking if you should be able to push the OD servo in after reinstalling it? As for as pushing it in after reinstaling it....should be kinda hard...there is a lot of tension on that spring. But then again I have an A+ in mine....but I remember the stock one still being pretty hard. As far as when you removed it....not sure I have a good picture of that one, kinda sounds like you removed it differently then I did mine. Ryan __________________ 65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored

10-27-2003, 02:40 PM	#20
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	well, on basically all 3 of the "valves", I tried 2 things (neither with any effect, really). I would push on the face of the valve and no effect. I could see it move maybe maybe a millimeter if that. Next I pried from the bottom upward on the peg half of it and once again, no cheese. I could see the fluid bulge out a bit as if maybe a millimeter of movement had happened. When I pulled off the retaining ring around the face and pushed up to my surprise it still had no range of motion at all. I then tapped it gently but firmly with a huge mallet and it popped out. I dont know much about AOD's but that just doesnt seem right. I dont see how it can compress the band if the peg doesnt telescope from the housing. This transmission, I know for a fact that it sat for years unused. The inside looked pristine. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
installing a radio in a damaged dash	mitch32	Audio, Security, & Electronics	0	03-16-2004 11:00 PM
hail damaged '65	tainted meat	Classic Mustangs	4	06-12-2002 12:40 AM
Damaged heads or blown head gasket	silverstang96	Modular Madness	4	10-15-2001 08:50 AM
Damaged Bassani X w/cats saved my car..	96cobra89Lx306	Modular Madness	2	11-09-2000 07:34 AM
PLEASE HELP- DAMAGED WHEELS	JohnnyG	Corner Carvers Delight	1	09-16-2000 08:17 AM