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04-30-2005, 01:30 AM | #1 |
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When do you need rear conrol arms?
Do I need them yet?
I'm cutting 1.86-1.90 60 ft with poly bushings top and bottom,subframes, 265/60/15 McCreary's (DR's I suppose) Launch @ 5000rpm |
04-30-2005, 03:14 PM | #2 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
Yeah its time. If I could start all over again with a stock stang control arms would be one of my first mods.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
05-03-2005, 12:25 PM | #3 | |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
Quote:
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1993 Mustang GT, PTK w/ T-64 - My Cardomain Webpage 11.25@123.5 on only 8 psi. 10.84@121 on only 1 headgasket "The Truth is, Your the Weak, and I am the Tyranny of Evil Men!" |
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05-05-2005, 02:24 PM | #4 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
I'd say its time, but I'd recommend doing it right the first time and getting adjustable uppers and lowers. I'm now realizing that I should have bought adjustables the first time around. They're a little more expensive up front, but are definately worth it.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
05-05-2005, 03:12 PM | #5 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
Problem with adjustables is I wouldn't know how to set them up, and there are no good shops around here that I would trust.
How important is it to get uppers if your making moderate power? I've heard lowers are much more important for gaining traction. |
05-05-2005, 03:31 PM | #6 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
Just set them up at the length that your stock ones are, to start with. Then from there you can measure your pinion angle and adjust accordingly.
If you're going to be in there anyway, you might as well do the uppers too. Also, welding up your torque boxes is always a good idea. You REALLY don't want to rip them out and have to try to repair them.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
05-05-2005, 05:04 PM | #7 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
Do you just weld the seams on the torque boxes?
How do you measure pinion angle? The uppers only adjust the angle right? Why have adjustable lowers?
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
05-05-2005, 06:23 PM | #8 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
The easy way is to just weld up the seams. The best way is to buy a re-inforcement kit and weld that in. I believe wolfe racecraft sells one. A friend of mine made mine for me.
Pinion angle can be measured a few ways, but here is a link for it:http://baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm Take a look through that site, you'll learn a ton about suspension geometry. Enough to make your head hurt The uppers mainly control the pinion angle, and the lowers compensate for any difference in lenght that you make the uppers so you can keep the wheel centered in the wheel well.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
05-05-2005, 07:32 PM | #9 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
I have seen 8 second cars with non adjustable control arms still using the stock mounting points.
Get a decent set of upper and lower control arms and be done with it. IMO,
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
05-05-2005, 10:17 PM | #10 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
And those 8 second cars could be that much faster with adjustables. Sometimes you'll get lucky and the solid ones will get you good geometry, but there are so many factors involved, it is very rare to slap in some solids and get it spot on.
You'll have to decide if solids will suit your needs, which they might. But if you plan on making this more of a track car, you might think about spending a little more up front to give yourself room to grow down the road. There have been TONS of parts I've bought over the past 7 years that I wished I woulda just waited and got what I really wanted instead of doing it 2 or 3 times and end up spending that much more money. sorry to be so long winded...
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
05-06-2005, 02:30 PM | #11 | |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
Quote:
I know people with drag shocks and drag springs and adjusable control arms that dont 60ft any better than me. Alot of suspension stuff is just overkill for a 12-14 second car. I can understand it if you are going for 10's like you are though.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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05-06-2005, 03:45 PM | #12 |
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Re: When do you need rear conrol arms?
I won't be satisfied with anything worse than 1.45 this season with mine. I'm gonna need it to get that 10
I got hooked (pun intended) on this suspension stuff since I've been learning from/helping a friend of mine with his OSCA mild street car. They have to use an 8.5" slick and he's been getting 1.34-1.35 60ft's. The NMRA Renegade car I help with gets mid 1.2's on a 28x10.5" There is an amazing amount of ET in the right suspension setup, you just gotta know what you're doing
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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