Still leaking?!!!!!!

[USMC302]

Well, FFW in Louisiana was pretty good, some 6 and 7 sec cars on hand. I spoke with a few of the pros and 2 out of 3 said use Cortecos gaskets, one said he had this problem as well and sprayed the entire gasket with a teflon or some kind of sealant spray, let them dry, then put them on and no leak.

[~The Jester~]

Originally Posted by HotRoddin

I'm curious about the leaking headbolts theory, even if you have coolant coming up past the bolt threads, that area is still sealed from the outside world by the head gasket ??

Sort of. Look at your head gaskets next time you have them off. Not a lot of effort is put into sealing of those bolt holes. Well, not nearly as much effort as sealing of the combustion chamber for sure!

The spray stuff (at least around here) is called Copper Head, and it's made especially for head gaskets. AZ/Advance should have it.

I was SOOOO frustrated at Fun Ford last year. Thrased to get the car done (left mine at home AGAIN) drove up there on 2 hours sleep, set valve lash, changed oil etc etc. Get ready for 1st round quals, and then the leak started. I was Smokin Mad! The head studs are what killed us. Leaked right up through the threads, and to the "outside" world anywhere it could, including the oil pan. We actually saw it ooozing up through the nut (think studs now) is the only way we found it. Had those been bolts, we might not have found it that easy.

Guess I'm trying to take one of my bigger boo-boo's and help make it "all better" by making sure USMC isn't having the same problem. I'm not saying it IS his problem, but I sure as hell hope it's something that easy.

[USMC302]

Got the heads off this weekend, finally. head gaskets looked good, not blown or broken anywhere. Ordering studs, Corteco head gaskets, 555, and head gasket spray this week. Will be getting the block test after next week and assembling yet again. Will keep you all posted.

[USMC302]

BROKE A **CKING STUD IN THE BLOCK. PASSENGER SIDE ALL WENT TO 90FT/LBS FINE, DRIVER SIDE STUD BROKE. I QUIT. I'M TAKING IT BACK TO HOUSTON ENGINE AND LETTING THEM DO IT. THERE THE ONES WHO SAID GO TO 90FT/LBS IN THE FIRST PLACE. THIS IS RIDICULOUS.

[andy669]

If theyre the ones who told you it was ok to take a 7/16 stud to 95, I would stay away from them. 1/2 inch goes to 95, and 3/8 go to 45.

It might not be as bad as you think. The studs usually dont get super tight in the block. It might surprise you how easily it comes out. But next time, please take them to 50 on the first step, then 70. Oil the threads, and the mating surfaces of the washers and nuts.

Andy

[USMC302]

Originally Posted by andy669

If theyre the ones who told you it was ok to take a 7/16 stud to 95, I would stay away from them. 1/2 inch goes to 95, and 3/8 go to 45.

It might not be as bad as you think. The studs usually dont get super tight in the block. It might surprise you how easily it comes out. But next time, please take them to 50 on the first step, then 70. Oil the threads, and the mating surfaces of the washers and nuts.

Andy

They said 90, not 95. I would still not go 50 on the first round, I went 30, 60, 90. I did oil the washers and nuts.

[Ieatcamaros]

90 ftlbs is way too much for a 7/16" bolt. I wouldn't even tighten mine to 80.

[USMC302]

It was a stud, not a bolt. Houston Engine said they torque ALL their 7/16 studs to 100 ft/lbs. I'm bringing the car to them over the 4th of July weekend, he said they would fix it and put the heads on that day for free.

[rwhite65]

I realize this is an old thread, but I was always curious what fixed this? I was reading thru the archives to bone up for my head install, when I stumbled across this.

Good info in this thread by the way!
Ryan

[USMC302]

Ryan, absolutely agree. The solution was the right LENGTH head studs, summit actually sent me some that were too short threaded,( even though they swore they sent me the right ones...) the nuts were bottoming out on the stud making the torque readings show 90ft/lbs when it was actually on the stud and not the head....Long story short, I doubled up on the ARP hardened washers and no more problems...talk about aggrevating though, I took it apart 3 times before I figured it out.

[andy669]

Originally Posted by USMC302

The solution was the right LENGTH head studs,

Werent you having problems with it before you switched to the studs? Maybe I missed something.

Part of the reason I am so adamant on only torquing to 70 ft lbs is the amount of distortion you get in the cylinder. I have seen this firsthand when I have had a block in the hone. I will bore a block without the torqueplate to about .005 under the finished size. Then when I bolt the plate on and start to hone it, I can see the 'wear patttern' for the first couple thou. Finally when its all done, the cylinder will be near perfectly round and straight. If someone takes this block and torques the head bolts to 90, they are going to over-distort the cylinder and lose ring seal, and power. Possibly lots of it.

The heavy duty blocks like the Dart dont twist up near as much. The 351w with its 95 ft lb 1/2 inch head bolts is one of the worst. Its basically a bigger version of the tin can 302. Simply bolting a water pump on a SBC will change the front cylinders 3-4 tenths.

Glad to hear you got it running though. Problems like that really suck.

Andy

[USMC302]

Andy, extremely good point about the cylinder distortion, I know they use the torque plates and they recommended the torque settings, so far I'm pretty happy with the power I'm getting out of the 331 so far, it is a low compression motor so high 11's were fine with me. For the record, I am using the "555", corteco gaskets, and everything is torques to around 95 ft lbs. I sprayed a 150 shot not too long ago just for the hell of it and it rans 10's with no problems and barely any tuning. I'm counting my blessings.
Your right about the bolts though, I WAS having the same problems, not sure why, maybe the bolts were stretched out, can't remember if they were new or not. Wonder if that block I got just didn't go as deep on the bolt holes. Well regardless, I'm saving for a 363 dart block as we speak. Hopefully things will go smoother next year with it.

[bmxmon]

11.86 on a low compression motor eh? Nice! Nice sig btw too.

[USMC302]

thanks, yeah it comes in right at 9.5:1. I originally had the dome pistons (10:1) in but decided against them before I put the motor together thinking I would eventually throw a turbo on. The flattop pistons put it at 9:1 but I had the heads milled to bring it back up just a bit. I think it will do more, that run was with the 17" 99 cobra's on it, with the rodlites and a good launch, I should be able to pick up another tenth. Working out some exhaust issues right now. All in all, I'm impressed. I'm looking at a 363 Dart block now though.