this is it someone better help or i am selling this car

drtbiker · 10-02-2002, 11:37 PM

Ok guys ill tell you what is going on again i have a gt40 crate motor, bbk long tube headers, stock ho intake stock throttle body took of the egr valve, got rid of the vac linefor the emmisions and this is my problem A 1800RPM IDLE! and no it is not a vacumm leak, i checked the tps seams to have no voltage going through it tryed turning i tried everything. I am completly confused, and the car has confused plenty of others already the only way i can get the car to idle at where it is suppose to be is pull out the single plug conector and pull the plug on throttle air bypass valve, i have no idea what is causing this i have tryed literly everything, i checked all of the fuses and relays no luck, except the #15 fuse was burned out and i replaced that and had not had a problem with it since

could some one please please please help me

thanks alot

raini

HotRoddin · 10-03-2002, 02:03 AM

Call it a vacuum leak or call it an open valve that shouldn't be open, but i bet you a buck your sucking raw air someplace ?

PKRWUD · 10-03-2002, 03:57 AM

You have no voltage at the TPS? And you "removed" the egr and "emissions vac line" (why???).

Check the orange wire at the TPS for voltage with the key on. It should be 5 volts.

Is it?

If you really don't have any voltage there, it's because you removed the egr. The orange wire is the 5 volt reference wire the ECM sends out to the sensors to play with. They send part of that voltage back to the ECM. How much depends on what's going on. That's how the ECM reads the sensors. Anyway, the orange wire to the TPS goes to the egr solenoid first, so if you removed the wiring, you cut off your nose to spite your face.

You will have to reinstall the wiring so that the 5 volt signal from the ECM (pin 26) reaches the TPS.

Why in the world did you remove the egr anyway? I mean, it's your car, but why create problems for no gain?

jim_howard_pdx · 10-03-2002, 04:12 AM

It is time to build a 351 Windsor stroker dude..... I hate the small stroke fords. NO POWER. I like torque and it takes long strokes and long rods to get torque.

Now for your problem, why do you want to take off or disconnect the smog. All it does is pump filtered air into your exhaust ports????

Really, the entire computer is built around looking at the air fuel mixture and adjusting fuel metering to get the O2 saturation to the algorythem set at the factory.

ARE YOU SEEING THE LIGHT?????

When you cut off the smog, you are showing the 02 sensor LESS oxygen than it expects. So it figures you need more air. So it cuts down the fuel mixture but that reduces the O2 even more, so it figures I AM UNDER LOAD OR I AM COLD. So it goes to start up mode which is FULL RICH and HIGH RPM.

DO YOU GET IT YET???? The computer is going to do what it can to get to normal. That is probably why it is pushing 1800 RPM on the idle. It has to run that much RPM to get the O2 levels to the proper saturation point. It is probably running full rich as well which is just killing your air fuel mixture, carbonizing your plugs and combustion chamber, and ruining your driveability.

DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR. DO NOT MESS WITH YOUR SMOG SYSTEM ON A FORD.

I saw guys try this on Ferrari's once. Get rid of the smog and the car should run like it does in Europe. Only it didn't. Ferrari charged this guy 7,000 dollars to put it back to stock so it would run 170 mph. The smog was never the issue, it was the exhaust system changes that slow down the US Ferrari's. Unless you are married to an engine tech with a chassis dyno, a programable power chip, and the time and desire to get it to run somewhat like a normal car, you are just shooting yourself in the foot.

See if you can hook the smog back up. It should completely solve your problem.

Then build a 351 stroker block, and run the trick flow fuel injection with the 90 mm MASS. This will get you to the 500 hp level with a good cam, compression, and heads. Put on a vortech supercharger and you are in the 600 hp range. That is huge. 11's are a certainty!

Sorry to pound so much on the lowly small stroke small blocks, but my engine with 3.7 gears would be running 12.5 quarter mile times with a 2500 stall converter. It is not the cubic inches doing this work. It is the power resulting from the stroke and the rod length. My stroke is 3.5 vs 3.3 and my rod is 5.95 vs 5.4 SEE what I am pointing at?

Hope this helps.

Dark_5.0 · 10-03-2002, 08:15 AM

If you fix your TPS voltage you will fix your idle.

chill out man, you wil figure it out.

302 LX Eric · 10-03-2002, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jim_howard_pdx
It is time to build a 351 Windsor stroker dude..... I hate the small stroke fords. NO POWER. I like torque and it takes long strokes and long rods to get torque.

Now for your problem, why do you want to take off or disconnect the smog. All it does is pump filtered air into your exhaust ports????

Really, the entire computer is built around looking at the air fuel mixture and adjusting fuel metering to get the O2 saturation to the algorythem set at the factory.

ARE YOU SEEING THE LIGHT?????

When you cut off the smog, you are showing the 02 sensor LESS oxygen than it expects. So it figures you need more air. So it cuts down the fuel mixture but that reduces the O2 even more, so it figures I AM UNDER LOAD OR I AM COLD. So it goes to start up mode which is FULL RICH and HIGH RPM.

DO YOU GET IT YET???? The computer is going to do what it can to get to normal. That is probably why it is pushing 1800 RPM on the idle. It has to run that much RPM to get the O2 levels to the proper saturation point. It is probably running full rich as well which is just killing your air fuel mixture, carbonizing your plugs and combustion chamber, and ruining your driveability.

DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR. DO NOT MESS WITH YOUR SMOG SYSTEM ON A FORD.

I saw guys try this on Ferrari's once. Get rid of the smog and the car should run like it does in Europe. Only it didn't. Ferrari charged this guy 7,000 dollars to put it back to stock so it would run 170 mph. The smog was never the issue, it was the exhaust system changes that slow down the US Ferrari's. Unless you are married to an engine tech with a chassis dyno, a programable power chip, and the time and desire to get it to run somewhat like a normal car, you are just shooting yourself in the foot.

See if you can hook the smog back up. It should completely solve your problem.

Then build a 351 stroker block, and run the trick flow fuel injection with the 90 mm MASS. This will get you to the 500 hp level with a good cam, compression, and heads. Put on a vortech supercharger and you are in the 600 hp range. That is huge. 11's are a certainty!

Sorry to pound so much on the lowly small stroke small blocks, but my engine with 3.7 gears would be running 12.5 quarter mile times with a 2500 stall converter. It is not the cubic inches doing this work. It is the power resulting from the stroke and the rod length. My stroke is 3.5 vs 3.3 and my rod is 5.95 vs 5.4 SEE what I am pointing at?

Hope this helps.

Easy there Jim.

Getting the TPS fixed should be the cure.

E

PS - my lowly small stroke (3.25) small block makes crappy power...

fiveohpatrol · 10-03-2002, 09:30 AM

you said it will idle fine if you take out the spout connector and unplug the IAC?

re-check your timing with the spout out, get it at about 14deg initial. Then plug the spout back in. Now remove the IAC and clean it with carb cleaner (or replace it).

fiveohpatrol · 10-03-2002, 09:36 AM

Quote:

but my engine with 3.7 gears would be running 12.5 quarter mile times

You must be right about the 302's making crap power. I mean, Jeff Chamber's car only see's 11.10's all motor with a mild H/I/C combo.

Yah and mine is running like crap too

saltzstang · 10-03-2002, 11:26 AM

Sounds like Iac stuck...

tireburner163 · 10-03-2002, 11:51 AM

jim_howard_pdx: There are lots of people here without smog pumps who's cars run fine.

btw, I don't like the 351W

drtbiker · 10-03-2002, 12:00 PM

ok guys with the egr in the car it also does it and still has no voltage, somthing is going on here, i got rid of the egr because it was crimping my wot vacum line to the intake, the timing is dead on. the only way it will idle is when i take out the spout connector and pull the plug on the iac, i have two iac one is new and one is the old one i tryed the new one nothing infact it made the idle worse! To top it off know the damn car blew a header gasket thank god summit is open 24/7! is there an inline fuse for the tps that maybe fried. Pkrwud when i put the egr on it idles at 2100rpms and trust me guys the car does not have a vacum leak!

LX XLR8R · 10-03-2002, 12:14 PM

well i know for a fact you can run a car without a IAB and a EGR valve in the car..i ran in both my hatch and my notch blockoff plates that i made a work many years ago(should of patent them cuz now i see them being sold!) now its wire 361(red 14-16 ga) that goes to pin 57 on the computer but splits b4 it goes to all the sensors in a parrael fasion as oposed to pulling one sensor out and having them all go out in a series setup

pkrwd is right about all engine sensors are sent out 5v and are sent back less than that witch tells the compter what is going on as all on/off stuff(injectors,coil etc) are sent constant 12v power and computer pulses the neg

now reason behind me ridding the IAB is so i could set my idle and computer would not mess with it(had troubles on botch cars) and reason ridding EGR was just caouz it wasnt used) and yes both cars ran great..one went 12's on street tires with stock tb,intake,mass air,injectors and the same car went 11.7's on a lil dry hit

drtbiker · 10-03-2002, 12:22 PM

so how can i bypass the egr valve? i am pos it is the the tps because it is not sending any electrical current through the orange wire. the car runs fine until it warms up, and like i said it idles perfect with the air bypass valve disconnected when i had the egr it idled at 2g now it idles at 1800 w/o the egr idles at 600-700rpm with the air bypass valve and the spout connector out

thanks again guys

LX XLR8R · 10-03-2002, 12:32 PM

when you say spout connector do you mean the plug you are pulling to set timing or something else..becasue you dont want to run around with that plug out..unless you like red glowing headers

LX XLR8R · 10-03-2002, 12:35 PM

and i saw you had off road hpipe...does that mean you have no airpump and no egr tube going from head to head?

drtbiker · 10-03-2002, 01:41 PM

yeah i have no smog pump, and yeah spout connector meaning the single plug wire connector that u pull when u set the timing

richd · 10-03-2002, 02:26 PM

I don't think the engine should be able to idle without the IAB. So maybe your idle screw is set wrong?

Here's the correct adjustment procedure:

1. Place automatic transmission in PARK.
2. Engine OFF, back out throttle plate stop screw clear off the throttle lever pad.
3. With a .010 in. feeler gauge between the throttle plate stop screw and throttle lever pad turn the screw in until contact is made then turn it an additional 1-1/2 turns for High Output (HO), 1-7/8 turns for base engine.
4. Shut engine OFF and disconnect battery for 5 minutes minimum.
5. Start engine and stabilize for 2 minutes then goose the engine and let it return to idle, lightly depress and release the accelerator let engine idle. If idle problem still exists check for other possible causes.
6. On Automatic Overdrive Transmission (AOD) applications or Automatic Transaxle (AXOD) application check Throttle Valve (TV) adjustment.

Good luck,

Rich D.

PKRWUD · 10-03-2002, 07:23 PM

This thread is turning really stupid.

You have one and only one issue to deal with right now, and that is the TPS.

I already told you what you have to do, but I'm feeling generous, so I'll tell you again.

There is an orange wire that leaves the ECM at the 60 pin connector at pin #26. From there, it goes to a junction where it splits. One wire goes to your BAP sensor, and the other goes to your EGR valve position sensor. From there, it continues on to the TPS. You need to trace this wire, and find out where it is that you cut it, and put it back together.

If it were me, I would backprobe pin 26, turn the key on, and see if there was 5 volts. If there wasn't, the ECM is junk, and needs to be thrown out. If there is 5 volts there, I would check the wire at the BAP sensor, etc., until I found the break in the wire. You could also splice into the wire at the 60 pin and run it right to the TPS.

FORGET EVERYTHING ELSE AND FIX YOUR TPS.

Take care,
~Chris

87gt17815 · 10-03-2002, 07:31 PM

PKRWUD is absolutely right about the orange wire and i had a problem similar where the orang wire came out of my tps. the idle instantly went up about 1200 rpm.

drtbiker · 10-04-2002, 11:21 PM

i think it maybe the ecm i checked and there is no volatage at tps and when i checked the egr i had .030v. What is going on? oh no i am in trouble ill have to look at the 26 pin though, i didnt have time
later
raini thanks again

10-03-2002, 03:57 AM	#3
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	You have no voltage at the TPS? And you "removed" the egr and "emissions vac line" (why???). Check the orange wire at the TPS for voltage with the key on. It should be 5 volts. Is it? If you really don't have any voltage there, it's because you removed the egr. The orange wire is the 5 volt reference wire the ECM sends out to the sensors to play with. They send part of that voltage back to the ECM. How much depends on what's going on. That's how the ECM reads the sensors. Anyway, the orange wire to the TPS goes to the egr solenoid first, so if you removed the wiring, you cut off your nose to spite your face. You will have to reinstall the wiring so that the 5 volt signal from the ECM (pin 26) reaches the TPS. Why in the world did you remove the egr anyway? I mean, it's your car, but why create problems for no gain? __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

10-03-2002, 04:12 AM	#4
jim_howard_pdx Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 247	It is time to build a 351 Windsor stroker dude..... I hate the small stroke fords. NO POWER. I like torque and it takes long strokes and long rods to get torque. Now for your problem, why do you want to take off or disconnect the smog. All it does is pump filtered air into your exhaust ports???? Really, the entire computer is built around looking at the air fuel mixture and adjusting fuel metering to get the O2 saturation to the algorythem set at the factory. ARE YOU SEEING THE LIGHT????? When you cut off the smog, you are showing the 02 sensor LESS oxygen than it expects. So it figures you need more air. So it cuts down the fuel mixture but that reduces the O2 even more, so it figures I AM UNDER LOAD OR I AM COLD. So it goes to start up mode which is FULL RICH and HIGH RPM. DO YOU GET IT YET???? The computer is going to do what it can to get to normal. That is probably why it is pushing 1800 RPM on the idle. It has to run that much RPM to get the O2 levels to the proper saturation point. It is probably running full rich as well which is just killing your air fuel mixture, carbonizing your plugs and combustion chamber, and ruining your driveability. DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR. DO NOT MESS WITH YOUR SMOG SYSTEM ON A FORD. I saw guys try this on Ferrari's once. Get rid of the smog and the car should run like it does in Europe. Only it didn't. Ferrari charged this guy 7,000 dollars to put it back to stock so it would run 170 mph. The smog was never the issue, it was the exhaust system changes that slow down the US Ferrari's. Unless you are married to an engine tech with a chassis dyno, a programable power chip, and the time and desire to get it to run somewhat like a normal car, you are just shooting yourself in the foot. See if you can hook the smog back up. It should completely solve your problem. Then build a 351 stroker block, and run the trick flow fuel injection with the 90 mm MASS. This will get you to the 500 hp level with a good cam, compression, and heads. Put on a vortech supercharger and you are in the 600 hp range. That is huge. 11's are a certainty! Sorry to pound so much on the lowly small stroke small blocks, but my engine with 3.7 gears would be running 12.5 quarter mile times with a 2500 stall converter. It is not the cubic inches doing this work. It is the power resulting from the stroke and the rod length. My stroke is 3.5 vs 3.3 and my rod is 5.95 vs 5.4 SEE what I am pointing at? Hope this helps. __________________ 1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi

10-03-2002, 09:30 AM	#7
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	you said it will idle fine if you take out the spout connector and unplug the IAC? re-check your timing with the spout out, get it at about 14deg initial. Then plug the spout back in. Now remove the IAC and clean it with carb cleaner (or replace it). __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

10-03-2002, 11:26 AM	#9
saltzstang Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: southeast texas Posts: 90	Sounds like Iac stuck... __________________ AFR 1492 heads,Track Heat Intake, d.s.s super pro bullet 331, lakewood bell, king cobra, 3550 ,UPR shifter, aluminum shaft, 4.10, 31-spline, spool,hoosier27x10, moroso ds-2, 175-juice, egt...11.40 on motor spray pass coming.

10-03-2002, 11:51 AM	#10
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	jim_howard_pdx: There are lots of people here without smog pumps who's cars run fine. btw, I don't like the 351W __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

10-02-2002, 11:37 PM	#1
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	this is it someone better help or i am selling this car Ok guys ill tell you what is going on again i have a gt40 crate motor, bbk long tube headers, stock ho intake stock throttle body took of the egr valve, got rid of the vac linefor the emmisions and this is my problem A 1800RPM IDLE! and no it is not a vacumm leak, i checked the tps seams to have no voltage going through it tryed turning i tried everything. I am completly confused, and the car has confused plenty of others already the only way i can get the car to idle at where it is suppose to be is pull out the single plug conector and pull the plug on throttle air bypass valve, i have no idea what is causing this i have tryed literly everything, i checked all of the fuses and relays no luck, except the #15 fuse was burned out and i replaced that and had not had a problem with it since could some one please please please help me thanks alot raini __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113 Last edited by drtbiker; 10-03-2002 at 12:10 AM..

10-03-2002, 02:03 AM	#2
HotRoddin cranky old man Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Longview Texas Posts: 683	Call it a vacuum leak or call it an open valve that shouldn't be open, but i bet you a buck your sucking raw air someplace ?

10-03-2002, 08:15 AM	#5
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	If you fix your TPS voltage you will fix your idle. chill out man, you wil figure it out.

10-03-2002, 12:00 PM	#11
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	ok guys with the egr in the car it also does it and still has no voltage, somthing is going on here, i got rid of the egr because it was crimping my wot vacum line to the intake, the timing is dead on. the only way it will idle is when i take out the spout connector and pull the plug on the iac, i have two iac one is new and one is the old one i tryed the new one nothing infact it made the idle worse! To top it off know the damn car blew a header gasket thank god summit is open 24/7! is there an inline fuse for the tps that maybe fried. Pkrwud when i put the egr on it idles at 2100rpms and trust me guys the car does not have a vacum leak! __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

10-03-2002, 12:14 PM	#12
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	well i know for a fact you can run a car without a IAB and a EGR valve in the car..i ran in both my hatch and my notch blockoff plates that i made a work many years ago(should of patent them cuz now i see them being sold!) now its wire 361(red 14-16 ga) that goes to pin 57 on the computer but splits b4 it goes to all the sensors in a parrael fasion as oposed to pulling one sensor out and having them all go out in a series setup pkrwd is right about all engine sensors are sent out 5v and are sent back less than that witch tells the compter what is going on as all on/off stuff(injectors,coil etc) are sent constant 12v power and computer pulses the neg now reason behind me ridding the IAB is so i could set my idle and computer would not mess with it(had troubles on botch cars) and reason ridding EGR was just caouz it wasnt used) and yes both cars ran great..one went 12's on street tires with stock tb,intake,mass air,injectors and the same car went 11.7's on a lil dry hit __________________ 95 undecided cubes, AFR 185s,undecided cam, undecided intake, and a 150 hit 89 "turbonotch" 2.3T You might want to hold on..i saw this on a cartoon once

10-03-2002, 12:22 PM	#13
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	so how can i bypass the egr valve? i am pos it is the the tps because it is not sending any electrical current through the orange wire. the car runs fine until it warms up, and like i said it idles perfect with the air bypass valve disconnected when i had the egr it idled at 2g now it idles at 1800 w/o the egr idles at 600-700rpm with the air bypass valve and the spout connector out thanks again guys __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

10-03-2002, 12:32 PM	#14
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	when you say spout connector do you mean the plug you are pulling to set timing or something else..becasue you dont want to run around with that plug out..unless you like red glowing headers __________________ 95 undecided cubes, AFR 185s,undecided cam, undecided intake, and a 150 hit 89 "turbonotch" 2.3T You might want to hold on..i saw this on a cartoon once

10-03-2002, 12:35 PM	#15
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	and i saw you had off road hpipe...does that mean you have no airpump and no egr tube going from head to head? __________________ 95 undecided cubes, AFR 185s,undecided cam, undecided intake, and a 150 hit 89 "turbonotch" 2.3T You might want to hold on..i saw this on a cartoon once

10-03-2002, 01:41 PM	#16
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	yeah i have no smog pump, and yeah spout connector meaning the single plug wire connector that u pull when u set the timing __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

10-03-2002, 02:26 PM	#17
richd Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Edison, NJ, USA Posts: 125	I don't think the engine should be able to idle without the IAB. So maybe your idle screw is set wrong? Here's the correct adjustment procedure: 1. Place automatic transmission in PARK. 2. Engine OFF, back out throttle plate stop screw clear off the throttle lever pad. 3. With a .010 in. feeler gauge between the throttle plate stop screw and throttle lever pad turn the screw in until contact is made then turn it an additional 1-1/2 turns for High Output (HO), 1-7/8 turns for base engine. 4. Shut engine OFF and disconnect battery for 5 minutes minimum. 5. Start engine and stabilize for 2 minutes then goose the engine and let it return to idle, lightly depress and release the accelerator let engine idle. If idle problem still exists check for other possible causes. 6. On Automatic Overdrive Transmission (AOD) applications or Automatic Transaxle (AXOD) application check Throttle Valve (TV) adjustment. Good luck, Rich D.

10-03-2002, 07:23 PM	#18
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	This thread is turning really stupid. You have one and only one issue to deal with right now, and that is the TPS. I already told you what you have to do, but I'm feeling generous, so I'll tell you again. There is an orange wire that leaves the ECM at the 60 pin connector at pin #26. From there, it goes to a junction where it splits. One wire goes to your BAP sensor, and the other goes to your EGR valve position sensor. From there, it continues on to the TPS. You need to trace this wire, and find out where it is that you cut it, and put it back together. If it were me, I would backprobe pin 26, turn the key on, and see if there was 5 volts. If there wasn't, the ECM is junk, and needs to be thrown out. If there is 5 volts there, I would check the wire at the BAP sensor, etc., until I found the break in the wire. You could also splice into the wire at the 60 pin and run it right to the TPS. FORGET EVERYTHING ELSE AND FIX YOUR TPS. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

10-03-2002, 07:31 PM	#19
87gt17815 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bloomsburg,PA Posts: 34	PKRWUD is absolutely right about the orange wire and i had a problem similar where the orang wire came out of my tps. the idle instantly went up about 1200 rpm.

10-04-2002, 11:21 PM	#20
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	i think it maybe the ecm i checked and there is no volatage at tps and when i checked the egr i had .030v. What is going on? oh no i am in trouble ill have to look at the 26 pin though, i didnt have time later raini thanks again __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

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