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Old 05-31-2001, 03:07 PM   #21
Smokedawg
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Man, it sounds like more than a few of us stangers in Indiana are having problmes..Must be the air.

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Old 06-01-2001, 01:29 AM   #22
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Well, I didn't get anything done to the car yet because I was too busy at work tonight. I will hopefully know something by this weekend. I'll be up Saturday morning Mark.

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Old 06-01-2001, 01:37 AM   #23
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2FastLX - Check the harnesses going to your O2 sensors. When I put in my first set of headers one of the harnesses got pushed up against the header and shorted. The computer threw out a code (don't remember which) that indicated "always reads lean" on the KOER test and ran really rich till I found the burned cable and fixed it. DON'T SELL THE CAR!
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Old 06-01-2001, 03:09 AM   #24
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you might wanna try an ect sensor, my car wouldn't idle below 1200 rpm and would spit raw fuel out the dumps at idle, and would run real rich at idle as well. mine also seemed like it was overheating the whole time. once i changed that sensor it ran perfect. good luck!! and don't give up, i was on the verge of selling mine as well......

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Old 06-01-2001, 08:09 AM   #25
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Damn one day I check and you are looking for info on codes the next time I check it's I'm going to sell this thing...

Don't worry Kev it's most likely something simple and you'll find it. I have a damn oil leak and my 3K mile King Cobra clutch is slipping. So either the rear seal blew and got oil all over the clutch or the rear of the pan is leaking, I was too pissed to play with it yesterday, guess I'm not heading to the track tonight for my first runs .

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Old 06-01-2001, 10:54 AM   #26
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I was pretty pi$$ed that day Rick

Anyway, the car came out of it somewhat and is back to the way it was just before the O2 install. It still runs like crap, but at least it's drivable.

The car has tons of power when you get on it and it doesn't hesitate a bit.

What is the ECT sensor and where is it located? Is there any way to test it? Also, how much do they run?

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Old 06-03-2001, 09:48 PM   #27
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All right. Now I'm really pi$$ed!

We checked everything we could think of over the last 2 days and we found a problem that is yet to be explained. My vacuum is only running 5 inches at idle
We checked the compression and it was between 140 to 150lbs. So we thought maybe it was because the rockers aren't letting the valves close all the way so we tested the compression with the car idling and it was fine. When you give it gas the compression drops to around 90lbs then goes back up at idle. Is that normal??

Any other suggestions on how to diagnose a low vacuum problem?

Thanks for all the help guys!!

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Old 06-03-2001, 11:28 PM   #28
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Kev buddy something is F****D UP, 5" of hg at idle aint **** , is your brake pedal stiff? My old cam only pulled 9" and my pedal was stiff and I had to hit the brakes to make the brake booster work. That cam should pull atleast 15", you have a leak or something somewhere. Let me sleep on it and think...

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Old 06-04-2001, 12:45 AM   #29
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Where are you testing for vacuum?
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Old 06-04-2001, 02:25 AM   #30
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Sell It. Some vacuum line or hose is obviously disconnected, or cam timing is WAAY out.
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Old 06-04-2001, 09:34 AM   #31
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We checked everywhere for a vacuum line not connected and couldn't find a thing wrong. If there was a leak leaking that much vacuum you'd think you'd be able to hear it pretty good because you can hear the 5 inches it's pulling when you remove a vac line. We checked the vacuum in a few different places I believe ( I was operating the clutch pedal and key ).

We also tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake to check for leaks and it was fine.

Cam timing is on the money. I installed the timing gears myself and know they were lined up. The car wouldn't run as good as it does at WOT if it wasn't. The car runs great once it gets up in the RPM's, and just sputters in the lower end. If the cam timing is off it can't be more than a tooth which wouldn't cause this much of a vac problem anyway. But I know it's not off even a tooth.

Would it help to start plgging off every vacuum line I can until I find the one that is causing the problems? I still have to try pinching off the vac hose to the booster to see if that fixes the problem. I will do that tonight at work.


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Old 06-04-2001, 09:38 AM   #32
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I just remembered something...
My cruise control doesn't work and I was told a long time ago (when the car was stock) that it could be a vacuum line off in the fender. I'll have to pull that fender tonight and see what I can find. Is this very hard to do?

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Old 06-04-2001, 10:01 AM   #33
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Kevin, I think it would be a good idea to start plugging up every vacuum port one by one until vacuum is normal. That should give you a good idea of which one it is. Start with the big lines since it seems like it would be a pretty big leak.

Also, get another vacuum tester and make sure that yours is accurate or use the one you have on a friend's Mustang to see if it registers what you would expect.



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Old 06-05-2001, 03:52 AM   #34
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Well, I've narrowed it down to absolutely no idea whatsoever. It has to be internal because with only one vac line left open it still has no vacuum at idle. Could it maybe be my exhaust has no back pressure? I'm lost.

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Old 06-05-2001, 04:09 AM   #35
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Not sure if you thought of or checked this stuff but I will mention it any way. I know you checked the upper to lower gasket for a leak, but what about the lower intake gaskets. It happened to me before, it was drawing air from the lifter valley because of a bad gasket. You would think if that were the case your plugs readings would not be the same but they were.

I'm not trying to insult you by saying this one, but there is a huge vacum port on the bottom of the upper intake for the PVC. the hose may of sliped off during the installation.

5' of vacum is way to low it has to be getting air from someware.

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Old 06-05-2001, 07:17 AM   #36
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Kevin- I was looking through some old Automotive adn Chilton manuals last night. If your vacuum is staying consistantly low at 5 and does not vary it points to the intake leaking, there are so many things that effect vacuum like bad rings, valve seals, valve timing, cam timing, leaky head gasket, manifold etc.... but if the intake is leaking vacuum will be consitantly 9-10 points low. I alwyas pull vacuum off the empty port on the vacuum tree, how does your brake pedal feel when it is sitting at idle? WIth only 5" it should be stiff because my old cam only pulled 9-10" of hg at idle and that is not enough to operate the power brakes.

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Old 06-05-2001, 10:29 AM   #37
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We sprayed the carb cleaner all around the upper and lower intake. If it was sucking any air in there it would have shown up I would think.

And yeah, my brake booster quits completely at idle.

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Old 06-12-2001, 01:54 PM   #38
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I just wanted to revive this topic to let you guys know I think we have it narrowed down to the valve lash. We checked the compression while it was running, but only did this on one cylinder. I was talking to my boss yesterday who used to be the head guy on an Indy car pit crew and he told me to check the valve lash. He said if only a couple valves were staying open it would cause vacuum problems. This has been one of my concerns ever since we got the car back together because we really kinda guessed at setting the rockers so I'm betting this is the problem. I will update this as soon as I know for sure.

Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old 06-12-2001, 02:40 PM   #39
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damn, i was about to offer you $1000 for it too.
oh well.
just kidding!
keep us informed.
Q

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Old 06-12-2001, 06:22 PM   #40
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What do you mean, "you guessed" on setting lifter preload? They should be 1/4 to 1/2 turn from zero lash. In other words, tighten the rockers up just until you cant turn the pushrods, then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
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