Pulling codes - Please help!!!!!! - Page 3

fiveohpatrol · 06-13-2001, 12:53 AM

he has adjustable rockers and "guessed" at how to adjust them, also tightening the rockers till the pushrod wont turn is NOT the correct way of doing it, i tested this out when i did mine, i could get all the way to the reccomended torque and they would still turn, the right way to do it is to move the pushrod up and down until all lash is out then if it torques down to the setting within 1/4-3/4 turns it is ok, but if it doesnt torque down then it needs a shim

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88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35

2FastLX · 06-13-2001, 03:55 AM

I don't know where all this shimming stuff comes about because my rockers have an adjuster screw right above the pushrod. I was told to just torque the pedastal bolt down, then adjust the set screw over the pushrod until the pushrod starts to feel like it's making contact, then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I eyeballed the adjuster screw moving 1/4 to 1/2 turn which looked to be between .020 and .040 which is what I was told the preload should be. So, we went 1/2 turn I think. My brother did the adjusting while I watched.

Quin, I may be looking to sell the complete engine and exhaust in a couple months if you were being serious. I'd like to be able to get at least $1700 for the complete engine and the full exhaust system from the long tube headers to the cat back.

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Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph

Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

fiveohpatrol · 06-13-2001, 12:27 PM

the shimming is needed sometimes with the NON-adjustable rockers

------------------
88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35

2FastLX · 06-13-2001, 12:34 PM

Yeah, that would make sense that you would have to shim with non-adjustables. But I had people telling me that with my adjustables I might have to shim them even. I even got instruction for the rockers (Omega's) and they said that, but that is just silly. Why buy adjustables if you still have to shim them?

Mark (stangsrule) and I were just talking last night and he mentioned that maybe my lifters had bled off and we adjusted them before they were pumped up. This is what we did

My question now is... should I pull my heads to check for burnt valves? The engine has at least 3000 miles on it since the rebuild.

------------------
Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph

Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

andy669 · 06-13-2001, 04:23 PM

Hey fiveoh, as youre tightening up the rockers and you get to the point of zero lash, right then you should feel resistance when turning the pushrod. Thats what I mean when I say "you cant turn them anymore". After the lifters bleed off you will be able to turn them again. 2fast: I think the reason for possibly having to shim your adjustables is, there might not be enough adjustment in the adjuster to make up for the difference in the size of every cam's base circle.

joe4speed · 06-13-2001, 11:32 PM

ooops!

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06-13-2001, 12:53 AM	#41
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	he has adjustable rockers and "guessed" at how to adjust them, also tightening the rockers till the pushrod wont turn is NOT the correct way of doing it, i tested this out when i did mine, i could get all the way to the reccomended torque and they would still turn, the right way to do it is to move the pushrod up and down until all lash is out then if it torques down to the setting within 1/4-3/4 turns it is ok, but if it doesnt torque down then it needs a shim ------------------ 88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35

06-13-2001, 03:55 AM	#42
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	I don't know where all this shimming stuff comes about because my rockers have an adjuster screw right above the pushrod. I was told to just torque the pedastal bolt down, then adjust the set screw over the pushrod until the pushrod starts to feel like it's making contact, then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I eyeballed the adjuster screw moving 1/4 to 1/2 turn which looked to be between .020 and .040 which is what I was told the preload should be. So, we went 1/2 turn I think. My brother did the adjusting while I watched. Quin, I may be looking to sell the complete engine and exhaust in a couple months if you were being serious. I'd like to be able to get at least $1700 for the complete engine and the full exhaust system from the long tube headers to the cat back. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

06-13-2001, 12:27 PM	#43
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	the shimming is needed sometimes with the NON-adjustable rockers ------------------ 88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35

06-13-2001, 12:34 PM	#44
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Yeah, that would make sense that you would have to shim with non-adjustables. But I had people telling me that with my adjustables I might have to shim them even. I even got instruction for the rockers (Omega's) and they said that, but that is just silly. Why buy adjustables if you still have to shim them? Mark (stangsrule) and I were just talking last night and he mentioned that maybe my lifters had bled off and we adjusted them before they were pumped up. This is what we did My question now is... should I pull my heads to check for burnt valves? The engine has at least 3000 miles on it since the rebuild. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

06-13-2001, 04:23 PM	#45
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	Hey fiveoh, as youre tightening up the rockers and you get to the point of zero lash, right then you should feel resistance when turning the pushrod. Thats what I mean when I say "you cant turn them anymore". After the lifters bleed off you will be able to turn them again. 2fast: I think the reason for possibly having to shim your adjustables is, there might not be enough adjustment in the adjuster to make up for the difference in the size of every cam's base circle.

06-13-2001, 11:32 PM	#46
joe4speed He said Member...heh, heh Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A. Posts: 3,718	ooops!