Is EEC-IV and harness combo correct.

[Mountain Main]

My harness has these letters E4LB-14A468-A

My ECM is a remanufactored EEC-IV with these numbers. EEC-IV SFI-MA12A REMAN F3ZF-12A60-FB M13333 D3D1 R1SM12AF15 0217-1261 2E21

Does this combo work?

Thankx

Mountain Main

[Roket]

call a ford dealership in your area

[PKRWUD]

I don't have the slightest idea, but if the harness connectors fit your senors, I wouldn't sweat it. What is the code on the tag that's taped to the ECM?

[Mountain Main]

There are two stickers on the EEC-IV. One sticker says Remanufactured then a bar scan and then 02171261 2TR. It is located on the metal that is on the metal casing of the EEC-IV. The other sticker is located on the plastic that covers all the pins. It has these numbers and looks like this.

EEC-IV SFI-MA12A Reman D3D1
F3ZF-12A650-EB M13333
R1SM12AF15 0217-1261 2E21

There also is a Pink print on one side of the plastic of the pin cover. It says:

9217 2007
E9AF-14A624 (GTE)

What do you think?

For your information PKRWUD. The Throttle Postion Wire pulled out of the connector. I think I'm was able to jam it in the harness connector. I also super glued it. Hope fully it will work.

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by Mountain Main
There are two stickers on the EEC-IV. One sticker says Remanufactured then a bar scan and then 02171261 2TR. It is located on the metal that is on the metal casing of the EEC-IV. The other sticker is located on the plastic that covers all the pins. It has these numbers and looks like this.

EEC-IV SFI-MA12A Reman D3D1
F3ZF-12A650-EB M13333
R1SM12AF15 0217-1261 2E21

There also is a Pink print on one side of the plastic of the pin cover. It says:

9217 2007
E9AF-14A624 (GTE)

What do you think?

For your information PKRWUD. The Throttle Postion Wire pulled out of the connector. I think I'm was able to jam it in the harness connector. I also super glued it. Hope fully it will work.

Well, it would appear to be a 2TR, but I've never heard of a 2TR. Doesn't mean they don't exist, just that I'm not familiar with it. The code on the reman sticker says it's for a 1993 Mustang, but the code in pink print says it's for a 1989 full-size Ford.

Rather than using super glue, go to the junk yard and cut the harness and connector off of another TPS, and solder it to yours. Glue fails. Even when it's super.

Take care,
~Chris

[Mountain Main]

So I reinstalled my old harness I am sending back the 1993 5.0. I believe that I finally got pin 47 a good connection with the computer. Now the car throws the check engine light on. The KOEO test says that I have these codes 22, 67 and 85. What do you think?

22 Map Baro out of Self Test Range
67 You can ignore
85 In closed loop it is Adaptive fuel lean limit reached
85 In open loop it is Canister Purge circuit failure.

I have a new Map Sensor from Ford. Should I test it?

[Mountain Main]

I was looking throught my wiring harness and found a connector to the Canister Purge Seloid was not connected. I feel really suppid for not connecting all of the equipement up. Sorry for the inconveinence. Car still has check engine light on. I will try to run KOEO test. I'm having troubles running test.

Thankx

Mountain

[Mountain Main]

Today I solved codes 21 and 24. I redid the ground wires by sanding and putting the connector straight to metal. I put dielectric grease on most of the connections. The codes went away.

The only code I have left is 22 MAP/BP out of range.

-I am going to do a Key off, disconnect MAP/BR connector
-Measure Voltage between VREF and SIG RTN at vehicle harness connector
-KOEO
I am suppose to get 4 to 6 volts dc (VREF)

My MAP sensor is brand new so I am going to look more at the wiring side for problem solving.

I think I am also going to reground the wires coming from the O2 sensor.

[PKRWUD]

Seeing as you live just a few doors down from God, the altitude may be what's causing your code 22.

With the key on, engine off, measure the voltage on the signal wire. At 8000', it should read between 1.33-1.41 vdc. The higher the elevation, the lower the reading should be. Sea level is 1.55-1.63 vdc.

If it passes that test, do this:
Plug the vacuum hose going to the MAP sensor, and attach a vacuum pump to it instead. Start the engine and idle it between 1400-1600 rpms. Slowly apply 15" of vacuum to the sensor. Under these conditions, run a KOER test. Check for a code 22, and disregard any other codes. If 22 comes up again, replace the MAP sensor. If not, then inspect the vacuum hose going to the MAP for damage.

Take care,
~Chris

[Mountain Main]

I don't have a vaccum gauge. I don't have a vaccum line going to my MAP. Where should the line be coming from?

I did some electrical tests.

Key off disconnected the MAP connector measured voltage between VREF and SIG RTN at vehicle harness connector with map unplugged
.8 milli volts

Than I did it with KOEO
73 milli volts

Then I did PKRWUD's test which involved measurings the MAP/BP SIG a green wire. I left the MAP plugged in and back probed one lead of my DMM on the green wire and my other lead of my DMM went to a freshly sanded ground on the body.
216 milli volts

What do you think?

[PKRWUD]

It sounds like it's bad, but if you don't have vacuum going to it, it isn't functioning anyway. It should be connected to manifold vacuum. Try hooking it up, reset the ecm, and see what happens.

[Mountain Main]

Does any one have a good vaccuum diagram? Also a good verbal discription on where the hose comes from.

Thank you

Mountain Main