![SEARCH](http://www.mustangworks.com/images/search.png)
![The Mustang Works](http://www.mustangworks.com/images/mw_footer_logo.gif)
© Copyright 1995 thru 2008 - The Mustang Works™. All Rights Reserved.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
![]() |
#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 233
|
![]() I'm lookin at swaping out my stock rubber upper control arm bushings for some good urethane ones.
But how do the stock bushings come out? Do they need to be pressed out or just pound the hell out of them? Also what do you have to do to get the bushing out of the eyelet on the axle? Does the axle need to be removed or can you do it with the axle still under the car? Any info would be great. And no I'm not just gonna upgrade to aftermarket control arms, its simply not in the budget.
__________________
1989 Mustang LX Notch 5.0L, T-5, 1969 351W heads, cut & welded stock plenum, F-303 cam, Mac 1 5/8 full length headers, Cat'd H-pipe, 3.73 gears, Underdrives, SSM lift bars, E-Fan, 3G Alt, Custom Chip, Autometer gauges, Weld Draglite wheels , M/T ET Street Radials Best 1/4: 13.33@101.53MPH |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: butler pa
Posts: 303
|
![]() i took a drill and ground out most of the rubber till the bushing fell out and i did the axle while it was in place on jackstands just take your time and you should be fine id also figure on cleaning the holes out with a wire wheel i used one that fit right in the same drill i used to run out the rubber
__________________
92lx wannabe saleen |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Airdrie, Alberta - Canada
Posts: 28
|
![]() Im not sure about the control arm bushings, but I changed the bushings on the diff housing while I had it out for a gear swap. I just knocked them out with a
hammer and tapped new ones with a large socket/ hammer. Measure installation depth of old ones before knocking them out to keep proper alignment. Doing it with housing still in car could be a little tougher. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 233
|
![]() Thanks for the info guys. I'll be startin that as soon as my new bushings get here, hopefully early this week.
__________________
1989 Mustang LX Notch 5.0L, T-5, 1969 351W heads, cut & welded stock plenum, F-303 cam, Mac 1 5/8 full length headers, Cat'd H-pipe, 3.73 gears, Underdrives, SSM lift bars, E-Fan, 3G Alt, Custom Chip, Autometer gauges, Weld Draglite wheels , M/T ET Street Radials Best 1/4: 13.33@101.53MPH |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
|
![]() This might not be the cleanest way but I've heard of people burning them out with a torch....unless you don't like the smell of burning rubber. Although, I don't know any hotrodder that doesn't like the smell of rubber burning
![]()
__________________
'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 6
|
![]() You don't have to burn them all the way out. Just heat the outer shell until they start to smoke. That melts the bond between the rubber and the shell. Then just push them out with a screwdriver.
Wait until you get the new bushings before you do anything. Some bushings come with a new outer steel shell. You have to press/hammer out the old shells and press the new ones in. Other bushings don't come with shells and you have to reuse the old ones as described above. If you hammer out the shells in that case then you are kind of screwed.
__________________
www.realspeedauto.com |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Canada
Posts: 25
|
![]() Definitely burning them out would be the easiest way.
__________________
BABYS ARE BOTTLE FED, REAL MEN GET BLOWN!!!! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
|
![]() Most places advertise if they come with new outer shells or not so just make sure you know which type you are getting.
__________________
'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Airdrie, Alberta - Canada
Posts: 28
|
![]() Order the ones from FRPP, they come complete with outer sleeves,new c-clips and
a bottle of additive for the traction lok. The kit is cheap - I only paid $17 in canada |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
new rear end | fordkid68 | Classic Mustangs | 18 | 11-24-2009 08:05 PM |
want rear disk without changing overall length of rear....please help!!! | dragstang86 | Windsor Power | 1 | 07-31-2003 06:32 PM |
cobra rear questions | dragstang86 | Windsor Power | 3 | 07-02-2003 06:56 PM |
Rear Polyurethane Bushings | TMASTER | Windsor Power | 4 | 11-06-2002 11:52 PM |
Rear Brake Line Removal | Kisner | Classic Mustangs | 2 | 03-13-2002 12:31 PM |