cooling problem from hell, part duex!

fiveohpatrol · 03-11-2001, 07:02 PM

ok, for the ones that didnt read my last post, i put an explorer intake on and something in the install went bad, fixed the leaks and it was still overheating, put a new rad cap and thermostat in last weekend and well i thought it was fixed, it stayed a little under 180 last sunday, then i had to go back to school and got back this friday, drove it that night and it was fine, even did a few sprints to 125 or so and it only went a little over 180 for a min and then went right back down after i beat on it, drove it saturday morning and it was fine as well, sat night was a different story, it never overheated last night but it did get to and stayed at 190-200, then today i drove it and it went to about the same (190-200) and was pouring a little out the resevoir neck, came home looked it over and the radiator was just barely warm as well as the upper hose, drove it again and the temp went almost all the way up to about 240 or so

no good, came back and same thing, the radiator was barely warm, but then after i let it sit for a minute, the radiator and the upper hose got hot, but they werent when it was running, could this be hot coolant from the engine going back into the radiator through the lower hose? did i buy a bad thermostat, i got an 180 degree made by Stant, this is the worst experience i've ever gone through with any car, i need an expert to look at it

------------------
88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

rtz · 03-11-2001, 07:11 PM

What's your timing set too?

Or did you not have to pull or loosen the distributor when you swapped the intake?

What about the gaskets for the intake? Will they go on either way or do they only fit one way? Did you check to make sure that all the cooling holes were open and not blocked off by the gasket?

Are you using a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze?

The thermostat is directional. When you put it in, did you face it the right way? It has an arrow on it.

[This message has been edited by rtz (edited 03-11-2001).]

fiveohpatrol · 03-11-2001, 07:33 PM

the intake gaskets had writing on the head side, those are on right, made sure no coolant passages were blocked, the timing is at 14, put the stat in the way the it said on its package, the spring end inside the block, and the mixture is 50/50. has anyone had trouble with Stant termostats? im thinking thats what the problem is, but the only thing is that im about to leave again back to school and cant change it till next friday, i'm gonna collect everyone's thoughts through the week

------------------
88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

rtz · 03-11-2001, 07:48 PM

Do you have an electric fan or the stock factory one?

If it's the stock type fan with a clutch, with the car OFF, see if you can spin the fan with you hand. If it just spins around and around, then the clutch is worn out. If it spins, but it drags some, it's still good.

rtz · 03-11-2001, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by fiveohpatrol:
put an explorer intake on and something in the install went bad, fixed the leaks and it was still overheating,

What was leaking and how did you fix it?

fiveohpatrol · 03-11-2001, 10:49 PM

the upper hose was old and it was a liitle loose and leaking just a little, and 2 other small leaks from hoses either not being tight enough or forgotten to be tightened

gp001 · 03-11-2001, 11:56 PM

I have had 3 bad experiences with Stant thermostats in the past 2 years. 1 when I built my 347, damn thing would stick intermittently. 1 on my Dodge truck when I did a head change. And 1 on my buddies vette when we did a cam & head swap. The last one scared the @#!% out of us because when we fired it up to break in the cam the temps went through the roof. The only way we knew it was the thermostat in all 3 instances is because we have a Gano filter installed in the rad hose and we could see through the clear tube that little or no water flow was taking place.
Also, make sure you have no air pockets in the system. Check your fan as described in another post, and you might want to try running it without a thermostat to verify you are getting good flow. Boil the thermostat to verify it is working

------------------
347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc
In a 66 coupe

withamc · 03-12-2001, 12:00 AM

FIVEOFPATROL - Sorry to hear about your problems. I had something similar to this happen when I put the cam in a few weeks ago. I had put a Stant heavy duty/high flow 180 therm in, took it out Friday night and it got real hot real fast, upper hose got hot, but the radiator was still cool to the touch. I seem to remember having problems with the heavy duty/high flow therm before. Went back to the store and just got the normal 180 therm (Stant also), but before I put it in I drilled a tiny hole on the flat part of the thermostat (Jeep sells them this way) and made sure that hole was at the top when I installed it. Supposed to help in filling the cooling system and getting air bubbles out. Also I poured in a bottle of Water Wetter. It's been OK since.

fiveohpatrol · 03-17-2001, 09:55 PM

well, just pulled out the Stant and put in a Napa OEM thermostat, the f%#$&@g temp still went all the way up after about 5 minutes of driving, came back and there was no leaks but i felt the radiator and it was very cool and the upper hose was just barely warm, pulled the cap off slowly and very hot steam came out, before i left i made sure the radiator was full and the resevoir was at the full cold line, now both levels are down a little bit but im thinking thats from the coolant getting so hot and pouring out the overflow, im so lost right now and dont know where to go with this, i dont have the money to have a shop work on it, its gotta be something from the intake install, so my next guess is something blocking a coolant passage, but why would it have run fine for 3 days and then get blocked? i dont know, this is really getting to me, someone please help, i need to have it runnin good for the midwest stang thing April 14th, thanks again

------------------
88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

2FastLX · 03-17-2001, 10:33 PM

Man Drew, you are having the exact same problem as me! I pulled my heads and my gaskets were fine BTW. Nothing out of the ordinary there. I have narrowed it down to a plugged radiator. After I pulled the radiator and ran a hose through it it took a bit for water to start coming out the other side. Pull the radiator and go to Ace Hardware and get some Muriatic Acid. Pour it in the radiator and let it sit for awhile then flush it out with fresh water. Do that a few times and it should flow better. Probably not your problem since it was fine before the intake install, but wouldn't hurt. Total cost for the acid is like $4.00.

Did you route your serpentine belt the correct way around your water pump? If not and it's running backwards that could be the problem. I have no idea really as I am in the same situation as you now I think. We'll see when I get everything back together.

Good luck man. If you need any help let me know. I gotta pull my cam tomorrow and that'll only take a few, so after that I will be free for a couple days.

------------------
Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here

92Rustang · 03-17-2001, 11:53 PM

Sounds like you have air in the lines. This can cause all kinds of funny over heating problems.

------------------
Check my site for mod
www.fordmustanggt.com

vande97 · 03-18-2001, 12:13 AM

maybe temp guage went bad? just another thought. I know my car did this and i had alot of crap in the radiator and had to flush it 3 times just because crap keep getting in the thermostat making it stick also stuff keep getting in the radiator lines
well good luck man hope for the best.

fiveohpatrol · 03-18-2001, 12:15 AM

thats what i've thought a few times but i've ran it quite a bit and i figured that would get the air out, im gonna let it run tomorrow for a while with the cap off and see what that does, anyone else got any ideas?

------------------
88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

fiveohpatrol · 03-18-2001, 12:21 AM

about the radiator, my problem came after i installed the intake, before that my temperature never went over 180, so i dont think its something with the radiator, i'll try the acid and flushing it tomorrow as well

------------------
88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

92Rustang · 03-18-2001, 12:39 AM

I might get a new cap if you don't have one.
Maybe jack the front of the car up when you try to get the air out. This has helped my a time or two.

------------------
Check my site for mod
www.fordmustanggt.com

Capri306 · 03-18-2001, 02:45 AM

If steam shot out when you popped the cap, you have air pockets. This is probably the demon you've been trying to exercise. I had a customer with an Escort a while back with a similar problem. I told him he had air pockets; he wouldn't believe me, then he came in a short time later and found that was the problem after all.

I'd go ahead and do what you suggested. That being you let it run with the cap off, and a fresh mix of 50/50 ready to fill it. I'm willing to bet the water level will go down quite a bit. You might wanna try doing this on even ground, too. Good luck.

p.s. Is your pump the proper rotation???

------------------
Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

2FastLX · 03-18-2001, 09:05 AM

Don't pour that Muriatic acid in with the radiator hooked up in the car Drew (very bad). It's best to pull the radiator and lay it flat on the ground then pour it in and let it sit. You'll want to dilute it some at first, then richen the mixture until it starts to boil.

You don't see any milky sh!t in your overflow tank do you? Like a film on the wall of the tank? Mine had what appeared to be a head gasket failure (oil in the water), but the gaskets looked like new when I pulled them.

Check for a pinched overflow tube, get a new cap, check water pump rotation, and flush your radiator.

Once all that stuff is done we'll try something else. Call me... 765-569-6424
------------------
Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here

[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 03-18-2001).]

fiveohpatrol · 03-18-2001, 11:57 PM

i think she may be fixed, i let it run for about 25minutes with the cap off and then put a little more coolant in the overflow tank, drove it and it never went above 185 degrees, then came home,let it cool, drove it again and the same, third time was the same result, then i probably a stupid idea but i decided to really test it out by driving it back to college 85 miles away, driving at about 2700RPM the whole way with the heal on low and the temp never went about 180, seems to be fixed but i've also thought that a couple times before too, so im knocking on every piece of wood i can find

thanks for the help guys

------------------
88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

gp001 · 03-19-2001, 07:53 PM

I'll knock on some wood for ya too

------------------
347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc
In a 66 coupe

Fox Body · 03-19-2001, 08:47 PM

Glad you got things under control fiveohpatrol.

I read all the replies to this post and I must say I even learned something.
MW rocks.

-------------------------------
'79 Mustang Coup
4" Cowl
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8)
Stock 5.8L
C4 w/ shift kit
1.5" MAC full length headers
Holley 750 CFM
Edelbrock intake
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears (Now that's more like it!!)

Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon)

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

03-11-2001, 07:02 PM	#1
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	cooling problem from hell, part duex! ok, for the ones that didnt read my last post, i put an explorer intake on and something in the install went bad, fixed the leaks and it was still overheating, put a new rad cap and thermostat in last weekend and well i thought it was fixed, it stayed a little under 180 last sunday, then i had to go back to school and got back this friday, drove it that night and it was fine, even did a few sprints to 125 or so and it only went a little over 180 for a min and then went right back down after i beat on it, drove it saturday morning and it was fine as well, sat night was a different story, it never overheated last night but it did get to and stayed at 190-200, then today i drove it and it went to about the same (190-200) and was pouring a little out the resevoir neck, came home looked it over and the radiator was just barely warm as well as the upper hose, drove it again and the temp went almost all the way up to about 240 or so no good, came back and same thing, the radiator was barely warm, but then after i let it sit for a minute, the radiator and the upper hose got hot, but they werent when it was running, could this be hot coolant from the engine going back into the radiator through the lower hose? did i buy a bad thermostat, i got an 180 degree made by Stant, this is the worst experience i've ever gone through with any car, i need an expert to look at it ------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

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03-11-2001, 07:11 PM	#2
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	What's your timing set too? Or did you not have to pull or loosen the distributor when you swapped the intake? What about the gaskets for the intake? Will they go on either way or do they only fit one way? Did you check to make sure that all the cooling holes were open and not blocked off by the gasket? Are you using a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze? The thermostat is directional. When you put it in, did you face it the right way? It has an arrow on it. [This message has been edited by rtz (edited 03-11-2001).]

03-11-2001, 07:33 PM	#3
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	the intake gaskets had writing on the head side, those are on right, made sure no coolant passages were blocked, the timing is at 14, put the stat in the way the it said on its package, the spring end inside the block, and the mixture is 50/50. has anyone had trouble with Stant termostats? im thinking thats what the problem is, but the only thing is that im about to leave again back to school and cant change it till next friday, i'm gonna collect everyone's thoughts through the week ------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

03-11-2001, 07:48 PM	#4
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	Do you have an electric fan or the stock factory one? If it's the stock type fan with a clutch, with the car OFF, see if you can spin the fan with you hand. If it just spins around and around, then the clutch is worn out. If it spins, but it drags some, it's still good.

03-11-2001, 10:49 PM	#6
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	the upper hose was old and it was a liitle loose and leaking just a little, and 2 other small leaks from hoses either not being tight enough or forgotten to be tightened

03-11-2001, 11:56 PM	#7
gp001 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: So. Cal. Posts: 244	I have had 3 bad experiences with Stant thermostats in the past 2 years. 1 when I built my 347, damn thing would stick intermittently. 1 on my Dodge truck when I did a head change. And 1 on my buddies vette when we did a cam & head swap. The last one scared the @#!% out of us because when we fired it up to break in the cam the temps went through the roof. The only way we knew it was the thermostat in all 3 instances is because we have a Gano filter installed in the rad hose and we could see through the clear tube that little or no water flow was taking place. Also, make sure you have no air pockets in the system. Check your fan as described in another post, and you might want to try running it without a thermostat to verify you are getting good flow. Boil the thermostat to verify it is working ------------------ 347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc In a 66 coupe

03-12-2001, 12:00 AM	#8
withamc Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA Posts: 396	FIVEOFPATROL - Sorry to hear about your problems. I had something similar to this happen when I put the cam in a few weeks ago. I had put a Stant heavy duty/high flow 180 therm in, took it out Friday night and it got real hot real fast, upper hose got hot, but the radiator was still cool to the touch. I seem to remember having problems with the heavy duty/high flow therm before. Went back to the store and just got the normal 180 therm (Stant also), but before I put it in I drilled a tiny hole on the flat part of the thermostat (Jeep sells them this way) and made sure that hole was at the top when I installed it. Supposed to help in filling the cooling system and getting air bubbles out. Also I poured in a bottle of Water Wetter. It's been OK since.

03-17-2001, 09:55 PM	#9
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	well, just pulled out the Stant and put in a Napa OEM thermostat, the f%#$&@g temp still went all the way up after about 5 minutes of driving, came back and there was no leaks but i felt the radiator and it was very cool and the upper hose was just barely warm, pulled the cap off slowly and very hot steam came out, before i left i made sure the radiator was full and the resevoir was at the full cold line, now both levels are down a little bit but im thinking thats from the coolant getting so hot and pouring out the overflow, im so lost right now and dont know where to go with this, i dont have the money to have a shop work on it, its gotta be something from the intake install, so my next guess is something blocking a coolant passage, but why would it have run fine for 3 days and then get blocked? i dont know, this is really getting to me, someone please help, i need to have it runnin good for the midwest stang thing April 14th, thanks again ------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

03-17-2001, 10:33 PM	#10
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Man Drew, you are having the exact same problem as me! I pulled my heads and my gaskets were fine BTW. Nothing out of the ordinary there. I have narrowed it down to a plugged radiator. After I pulled the radiator and ran a hose through it it took a bit for water to start coming out the other side. Pull the radiator and go to Ace Hardware and get some Muriatic Acid. Pour it in the radiator and let it sit for awhile then flush it out with fresh water. Do that a few times and it should flow better. Probably not your problem since it was fine before the intake install, but wouldn't hurt. Total cost for the acid is like $4.00. Did you route your serpentine belt the correct way around your water pump? If not and it's running backwards that could be the problem. I have no idea really as I am in the same situation as you now I think. We'll see when I get everything back together. Good luck man. If you need any help let me know. I gotta pull my cam tomorrow and that'll only take a few, so after that I will be free for a couple days. ------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here

03-17-2001, 11:53 PM	#11
92Rustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Smithton, IL, US Posts: 215	Sounds like you have air in the lines. This can cause all kinds of funny over heating problems. ------------------ Check my site for mod www.fordmustanggt.com

03-18-2001, 12:13 AM	#12
vande97 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: okemos Posts: 205	maybe temp guage went bad? just another thought. I know my car did this and i had alot of crap in the radiator and had to flush it 3 times just because crap keep getting in the thermostat making it stick also stuff keep getting in the radiator lines well good luck man hope for the best.

03-18-2001, 12:15 AM	#13
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	thats what i've thought a few times but i've ran it quite a bit and i figured that would get the air out, im gonna let it run tomorrow for a while with the cap off and see what that does, anyone else got any ideas? ------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

03-18-2001, 12:21 AM	#14
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	about the radiator, my problem came after i installed the intake, before that my temperature never went over 180, so i dont think its something with the radiator, i'll try the acid and flushing it tomorrow as well ------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

03-18-2001, 12:39 AM	#15
92Rustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Smithton, IL, US Posts: 215	I might get a new cap if you don't have one. Maybe jack the front of the car up when you try to get the air out. This has helped my a time or two. ------------------ Check my site for mod www.fordmustanggt.com

03-18-2001, 02:45 AM	#16
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	If steam shot out when you popped the cap, you have air pockets. This is probably the demon you've been trying to exercise. I had a customer with an Escort a while back with a similar problem. I told him he had air pockets; he wouldn't believe me, then he came in a short time later and found that was the problem after all. I'd go ahead and do what you suggested. That being you let it run with the cap off, and a fresh mix of 50/50 ready to fill it. I'm willing to bet the water level will go down quite a bit. You might wanna try doing this on even ground, too. Good luck. p.s. Is your pump the proper rotation??? ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch

03-18-2001, 09:05 AM	#17
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Don't pour that Muriatic acid in with the radiator hooked up in the car Drew (very bad). It's best to pull the radiator and lay it flat on the ground then pour it in and let it sit. You'll want to dilute it some at first, then richen the mixture until it starts to boil. You don't see any milky sh!t in your overflow tank do you? Like a film on the wall of the tank? Mine had what appeared to be a head gasket failure (oil in the water), but the gaskets looked like new when I pulled them. Check for a pinched overflow tube, get a new cap, check water pump rotation, and flush your radiator. Once all that stuff is done we'll try something else. Call me... 765-569-6424 ------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 03-18-2001).]

03-18-2001, 11:57 PM	#18
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	i think she may be fixed, i let it run for about 25minutes with the cap off and then put a little more coolant in the overflow tank, drove it and it never went above 185 degrees, then came home,let it cool, drove it again and the same, third time was the same result, then i probably a stupid idea but i decided to really test it out by driving it back to college 85 miles away, driving at about 2700RPM the whole way with the heal on low and the temp never went about 180, seems to be fixed but i've also thought that a couple times before too, so im knocking on every piece of wood i can find thanks for the help guys ------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

03-19-2001, 07:53 PM	#19
gp001 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: So. Cal. Posts: 244	I'll knock on some wood for ya too ------------------ 347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc In a 66 coupe

03-19-2001, 08:47 PM	#20
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Glad you got things under control fiveohpatrol. I read all the replies to this post and I must say I even learned something. MW rocks. ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears (Now that's more like it!!) Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon) "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body