Heater Cores Suck

pearlgt · 09-04-2003, 12:36 PM

Is there any easier way to take and replace the heater core in my 1994 gt mustang I have had a time getting this thing out of my car. Also are there any other problems I should look for at this time.

silver_pilate · 09-04-2003, 01:48 PM

Hehe...nope. There's no such thing as easy when it comes to Mustangs and heater cores.

I did find that you could simply pry apart the casing on my 91 with it still attached to the car and remove/replace the heater core. That saves a little time, but you've still got to remove the entire dash. I don't know much about the 94+ models, but I'd assume it's similar.

--nathan

pearlgt · 09-04-2003, 02:01 PM

Well you are absolutly right the entire damn dash has to come out, it is a pain anyway thanks for the reply also, with underdrive pullies can i just put on the waterpump and crank pulley I heard the alt. pulley slows the alternator down too much what do yall think great site

'89GTStang · 09-04-2003, 05:36 PM

If you use the crank pully it will slow everything down a little and if you use the individual pullys it will slow whatever you use them on down even more. What kind of alt. do you have and what kinds of electrical things do you run? elec. fan, big stereo, amps, etc., ? if you do use a lot of elec. power I would leave it original if you don't then I'd go for it. you can always put the original pully back on if you have problems keeping things charged.

pearlgt · 09-05-2003, 06:13 AM

the only additional electrical componets I have are 1 jvc cd player running mb quartz componet set in doors and in rear deck, no subs or anything like that, how about I put everything back together in my car and the a/c dosent not work, can anyone please give me any direction.

billheis · 09-05-2003, 09:01 PM

My daughter has a 94 and when we got it the a/c evap was leaking. So I put in new evap and heater core. Yeah it sure is a pain. Now as far as your a/c not working, whats not working? The blower, not cooling, vents not changing? Get a little more specific and I'll try to help. I had the dash out twice in that car so pretty familar with everything.
Bill

canukracer · 09-06-2003, 12:59 PM

had a look in my alldata, job pays 6.4 hours/also found possible repeated heater core failer fix=check for electrolsis in coolant it breaks down the heater core /test with dvom set in dc volts pos meter end in coolant ,neg end to neg batt post runn at 2000 rpm to get a good reading .4volt=flush there is also a restrictor that u put in line part#f1uz-180 406a install on inlet hose with arrow facing direction of flow put it in as close to the engine as possible.rolleyes: ford taurus pays 10.5 hour to change heater core and it's a nitemare

pearlgt · 09-08-2003, 06:15 AM

thanks for all the help, I found that I have forgottento plug up the ac system, also I have a check engine light on for a coolant temp sensor, i have replaced the one on the intake manifold, now Im being told that there is another sensor in the car, can anyone tell me where hte other sensor is and if this will set of the check engine light, I was told it could be an ecm problem with the car. By the way Im looking for any parts to bolt on to this car to go faster, i.e. pullies, heads, intakes Im also looking for a 3.73 gear with an auburn unit if anyone has these for sale let me know at snoman@hotmail.com.

mpj76 · 09-08-2003, 12:16 PM

The coolant sensor for the dash is threaded directly into the upper intake manifold. The coolant sensor for the computer is threaded into the black metal coolant pipe assembly that is part of the heater core coolant loop. Its located on the top of the engine also, opposite side of the dash sensor. That's how it is on a 91. Yours is probably similar if not the same. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, please.

pearlgt · 09-08-2003, 12:25 PM

mpj76 which one of these would cause a check engine light to come on, or would both cause the problem, also still looking for performance parts for my car keep me posted

mpj76 · 09-08-2003, 01:30 PM

I'm afraid I don't know for sure. I've been told that the sensor for the dash simply measures the resistance in the circuit which then moves the needle accordingly to let YOU know the temp of the engine, while the other sensor is used by the computer to ajust air/fuel ratio.

pearlgt · 09-08-2003, 01:45 PM

thanks for the info, I quess I will replace the other sensor if that fixes the problem great if not I will be looking for a computer. Thanks for the help and by the way HEATER CORES SUCK!!

09-04-2003, 12:36 PM	#1
pearlgt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Augusta Georgia Posts: 55	Heater Cores Suck Is there any easier way to take and replace the heater core in my 1994 gt mustang I have had a time getting this thing out of my car. Also are there any other problems I should look for at this time.

09-04-2003, 01:48 PM	#2
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Hehe...nope. There's no such thing as easy when it comes to Mustangs and heater cores. I did find that you could simply pry apart the casing on my 91 with it still attached to the car and remove/replace the heater core. That saves a little time, but you've still got to remove the entire dash. I don't know much about the 94+ models, but I'd assume it's similar. --nathan __________________ '91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT

09-04-2003, 05:36 PM	#4
'89GTStang Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: greenwood, ar Posts: 118	If you use the crank pully it will slow everything down a little and if you use the individual pullys it will slow whatever you use them on down even more. What kind of alt. do you have and what kinds of electrical things do you run? elec. fan, big stereo, amps, etc., ? if you do use a lot of elec. power I would leave it original if you don't then I'd go for it. you can always put the original pully back on if you have problems keeping things charged. __________________ '89 GT K&N, Twisted Wedge heads, TFS intake,FMS 1.7 rockers, Trick Flow stage 1 cam(221/225 .530in\.542in) , 3.73's, headers, off road H-pipe, Flowmasters, FMS Clutch, Tremec, PRO-5.0, FMS driveshaft, fluidyne alum. radiator, and more to come.

09-05-2003, 09:01 PM	#6
billheis Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fernandina Beach, FL 32034 Posts: 178	My daughter has a 94 and when we got it the a/c evap was leaking. So I put in new evap and heater core. Yeah it sure is a pain. Now as far as your a/c not working, whats not working? The blower, not cooling, vents not changing? Get a little more specific and I'll try to help. I had the dash out twice in that car so pretty familar with everything. Bill __________________ Bill Heiser 90 Convertable 5.0 LX, ported E7s w/ THumper valve job, TFS street, FR 65mm TB, B cam w/1.7 cobra rockers, kirban AFPR, Mac CAI, Mac Headers, off road h, 3 chamber flows, Crane ign. box, 3:73s, Art Carr AOD & 2600 converter

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09-04-2003, 02:01 PM	#3
pearlgt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Augusta Georgia Posts: 55	Well you are absolutly right the entire damn dash has to come out, it is a pain anyway thanks for the reply also, with underdrive pullies can i just put on the waterpump and crank pulley I heard the alt. pulley slows the alternator down too much what do yall think great site

09-05-2003, 06:13 AM	#5
pearlgt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Augusta Georgia Posts: 55	the only additional electrical componets I have are 1 jvc cd player running mb quartz componet set in doors and in rear deck, no subs or anything like that, how about I put everything back together in my car and the a/c dosent not work, can anyone please give me any direction.

09-06-2003, 12:59 PM	#7
canukracer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: alberta canada Posts: 108	had a look in my alldata, job pays 6.4 hours/also found possible repeated heater core failer fix=check for electrolsis in coolant it breaks down the heater core /test with dvom set in dc volts pos meter end in coolant ,neg end to neg batt post runn at 2000 rpm to get a good reading .4volt=flush there is also a restrictor that u put in line part#f1uz-180 406a install on inlet hose with arrow facing direction of flow put it in as close to the engine as possible.rolleyes: ford taurus pays 10.5 hour to change heater core and it's a nitemare

09-08-2003, 06:15 AM	#8
pearlgt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Augusta Georgia Posts: 55	thanks for all the help, I found that I have forgottento plug up the ac system, also I have a check engine light on for a coolant temp sensor, i have replaced the one on the intake manifold, now Im being told that there is another sensor in the car, can anyone tell me where hte other sensor is and if this will set of the check engine light, I was told it could be an ecm problem with the car. By the way Im looking for any parts to bolt on to this car to go faster, i.e. pullies, heads, intakes Im also looking for a 3.73 gear with an auburn unit if anyone has these for sale let me know at snoman@hotmail.com.

09-08-2003, 12:16 PM	#9
mpj76 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 158	The coolant sensor for the dash is threaded directly into the upper intake manifold. The coolant sensor for the computer is threaded into the black metal coolant pipe assembly that is part of the heater core coolant loop. Its located on the top of the engine also, opposite side of the dash sensor. That's how it is on a 91. Yours is probably similar if not the same. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, please.

09-08-2003, 12:25 PM	#10
pearlgt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Augusta Georgia Posts: 55	mpj76 which one of these would cause a check engine light to come on, or would both cause the problem, also still looking for performance parts for my car keep me posted

09-08-2003, 01:30 PM	#11
mpj76 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 158	I'm afraid I don't know for sure. I've been told that the sensor for the dash simply measures the resistance in the circuit which then moves the needle accordingly to let YOU know the temp of the engine, while the other sensor is used by the computer to ajust air/fuel ratio.

09-08-2003, 01:45 PM	#12
pearlgt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Augusta Georgia Posts: 55	thanks for the info, I quess I will replace the other sensor if that fixes the problem great if not I will be looking for a computer. Thanks for the help and by the way HEATER CORES SUCK!!