Help me decide on 331 combo - Looking for 400+ RWHP

[NYC1]

So far I've decided to go with the 331 instead of the 347. I'll sell my GT40 Y Aluminum heads, and maybe the rockers.

I'm planning on a forged 331 with AFR 185's, Ed Curtis custom cam. 1.6 or 1.7 RR's, Pro-M 80mm Mass Air,28oz balancer.

What else would I need and approx what would this cost?

What size injectors?

Thanks

[BaLListic]

why a 331 over a 347? im looking at building a similar setup myself.....

[NYC1]

Originally posted by BaLListic
why a 331 over a 347? im looking at building a similar setup myself.....

I was thinking because of longevity, but from what I've been hearing, a wel built 347 is just as good and has more HP, so I may go that route if I can get one that's well put together.

[BaLListic]

i was gonna build a 347 actually but i believe now im going to build a 408 off of a 351w block.... more horses stronger and more reliable block not to mention im basically starting from scratch ne way....

[NYC1]

Cool. I know that'll make lots of power! I guess you'll have to change more things though.


Can anyone here help me with my question?

[420nitro]

Originally posted by NYC1
So far I've decided to go with the 331 instead of the 347. I'll sell my GT40 Y Aluminum heads, and maybe the rockers.

I'm planning on a forged 331 with AFR 185's, Ed Curtis custom cam. 1.6 or 1.7 RR's, Pro-M 80mm Mass Air,28oz balancer.

What else would I need and approx what would this cost?

What size injectors?

Thanks

You ask the million dollar question. Your combo sounds great, but the only thing is that that you need to think everything out, from first mod. to the last mod. If you plan on putting on a Pro-charger on this thing then you need to really start looking at a R-302 block along with premium parts (crank, rods, pistons,etc.) if you want any long term longevity. Take it from me...you might have a higher initinal investment but after trying to get away with cheaper parts you might end up spending more in the long run. I only wish some body told me this a long time ago! I mean it already sounded like you were going to buy a good crank, rods and pistons, but I just wanting to make sure we were on the same page. I tend to build my motors with a little over kill, just in case for that little "opps" or if I wanted to go faster later. If your just building a N/A motor then you dont need all the big $ stuff.
If you plan on keeping this thing and you are a speed junky like my-self, do your self a favor and buy the good sh-t and leave your self the room for advancement later. A solid short-block could set you back as much as $6,500. For approx. $3,000-$3500
you could have a short block that could handle 10's for awhile, depending on how you take care of it. .
You're going to want a good oil-pan, pump, girdle, intake, etc. All of these things vary in cost. How deep are your pockets?
Now you need to ask yourself...well if I'am going to spend that kind of money, why don't I just stroke out a big WINDSOR?!!!
Then go for the AFR 225 Heads.

HINT:It will cost you about the same amount of money, from where you are now.
As goes for injectors that all depends on the end result of your combo. More info is needed.
Good Luck

[NYC1]

Yes, I'm trying to avoid having to do it all over again. If I got a Windsor, will I have to change a lot of things(computer, headers etc)? How much would a N/A stroke Windsor cost? I won't need forged unless I'm adding a power adder right?

thanks

[BaLListic]

you mean a stock 351w? Well anyway i was comparing the prices and actually either way i got it will cost me about the same im basically starting from scratch ne way. No heads intake etc etc.. if you were refering to a 351w i believe you need this little list of stuff here which is stuff i was gonna replace anyway....



The 351 block and a 302 block are of very similar cast. Which means all trannys will interchange. Heads, timing chain, timing cover, water pump, accessories and internals like cam and lifters will also fit. Below is a checklist of things that you will need to do to make the 351 swap into your Fox body 302 Mustang.

1) You will need a new oil pan and pick up tube.

2) The Flywheel and Harmonic balancer are balanced to 28oz. instead of 50oz. like on late model 302's. You will need to obtain a 28oz. flywheel and balancer.

3) The lifter valley on a 351 is wider. This means you will have to change your intake setup. If you have a Cobra intake or a TFS intake now, both companies sell just a lower intake for the 351 to match the upper intake you already have.

4) If you want to keep your A/C and power steering you will need a new accessory bracket for the 351.

5) The 351 will also sit a little higher than the 302 in which 302 headers will not reach the H-pipe. Many companies sell 351 swap headers for this application. I prefer the BBK ones

6) Clearance off the stock hood with the 351 sitting higher will be a 50-50 thing. I have seen a 351 sit underneath a stock hood before. Most of you will need a cowl hood to fit if your motor mounts are fairly new and still very stiff. If they are old I do suggest new ones.

7) The distributor is also different from a 351 to a 302. You can obtain one from a 5.8 FI truck (if you are keeping FI).

8) A spacer will also be needed for the crank pulley for proper alignment of the belts. FMS sells this crank spacer

so far that seems about right....

[Stang_Crazy]

I'd consider a Dart or R-302 block. Either of these blocks can support more power than you'll ever throw at it. Why go with forged internals, yadda, yadda and then have the block be the weak point? Hell, why even put forged internals in a stock block? It would be like wrapping diamonds in poo .

If you're shelling out the $$ for a decent combination, I'd look into a stronger block.

[Stang_Crazy]

Originally posted by BaLListic
6) Clearance off the stock hood with the 351 sitting higher will be a 50-50 thing. I have seen a 351 sit underneath a stock hood before. Most of you will need a cowl hood to fit if your motor mounts are fairly new and still very stiff. If they are old I do suggest new ones.

With drop solid motor mounts, the 351 will sit about 3/4" lower in the engine compartment. With the drop solid mounts, your stock hood should be fine.

[BaLListic]

With drop solid motor mounts, the 351 will sit about 3/4" lower in the engine compartment. With the drop solid mounts, your stock hood should be fine.

Yeah i knew about that but i was cutting and pasting off some doods website im to lazy to actually write all that stuff myself

[Coupe50h]

Originally posted by Stang_Crazy
I'd consider a Dart or R-302 block. Either of these blocks can support more power than you'll ever throw at it. Why go with forged internals, yadda, yadda and then have the block be the weak point? Hell, why even put forged internals in a stock block? It would be like wrapping diamonds in poo .

If you're shelling out the $$ for a decent combination, I'd look into a stronger block.

true, but the pistons should be forged just in case you want a little shot of spray, imo, they are important on a stroker, the cast crank would be fine in a stock block.

My experience with a 400rwhp combo, just talking to guys at the track, and seeing under the hoods, a 342 stroker, afr 185's, holley intake, 30lb injectors, custom cam, longtubes.......that combo i had seen guys going low 11's on the motor, in a caged lx foxbody.

[andy669]

Pretty soon everyone is going to have you talked into a Pro-Stock mountain motor.

Your first post says you want 400 at the wheels. Coupe5oh's suggestions will get you there. My 306 makes over 400 at the wheels with a stock crank, stock block, flat tops, Twisted Wedge heads, unported air-gap intake and 650 carb.

The key, as someone else metioned, is the right selection of parts.

Andy

[NYC1]

Originally posted by Coupe50h
true, but the pistons should be forged just in case you want a little shot of spray, imo, they are important on a stroker, the cast crank would be fine in a stock block.

My experience with a 400rwhp combo, just talking to guys at the track, and seeing under the hoods, a 342 stroker, afr 185's, holley intake, 30lb injectors, custom cam, longtubes.......that combo i had seen guys going low 11's on the motor, in a caged lx foxbody.

That combo sounds like exactly what I'm looking for.

Originally posted by andy669
Pretty soon everyone is going to have you talked into a Pro-Stock mountain motor.


Andy

LOL!!!!! You're right! I was already thinking of the 351 idea. I think I'd just better stick 347.

[Coupe50h]

Originally posted by andy669
Pretty soon everyone is going to have you talked into a Pro-Stock mountain motor.

Your first post says you want 400 at the wheels. Coupe5oh's suggestions will get you there. My 306 makes over 400 at the wheels with a stock crank, stock block, flat tops, Twisted Wedge heads, unported air-gap intake and 650 carb.

The key, as someone else metioned, is the right selection of parts.

Andy

lol very true, not really a suggestion, but i go to the track and ask alot of questions so.....
andy, my friend had a similar combo as yours with an 850 carb! vic jr. intake, he put a holley 650 dbl pmpr and it went faster! it was a bad car, never dynoed it, but id say it was close to 375 at the wheels he was never touched on the street bye an ls1...hehe....2900 lb car though

[fiveohpatrol]

Originally posted by andy669


The key, as someone else metioned, is the right selection of parts.

Andy

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Although, I really didnt even need to post, cause if a pure street racer gives you advice, you better take it!!!