Looks like I broke it AGAIN!!!!!!

[420nitro]

If I am right, I just broke the Precision Industries Torque converter again for the third time!!!
The first time was on a dyno which Precision stated that it was there fault becuse of some clearences in the converter. They fixed it and sent it back. Cool,.. no problems but still had to have the trans gone threw for cleaning. I had to pay out of pocket. Then the second time I broke it and they stated that I can't use a trans-brake with there converters unless I use there sprag-less type converter. Are you kidding me!!! So I was like....fine... I paid for the second fix and had it set-up for the new engine combo anyway. Now with the new combo and LEAVING AT IDLE, it seems I broke it AGAIN! The reason why I think it broke again is because it acts the exact same way as it did before WHEN THE SPRAG WENT OUT THE VERY LAST TIME! Nothing wrong with the engine. The trans fuild never got hot or even smells burnt! But drives like shyte ever since that baby launch. First pass and it went to shyte. Now could it be something with the trans and not the converter...yes but I honestly don't think so because the fluid isn't burnt. Fluid even looks clean. Won't know for sure untill I remove the trans and check it out again.
If your asking yourself then why I think it's messed up...the reason is before I race it at the track the car pulled hard enough to scare me on the street. That pass I made at the track almost put me to sleep with the exception of the launch from IDLE.
Now don't get me wrong, is the P.I converters bad...I will let you decide...as goes for my opioion...yes..but, maybe I just have awfull luck.

[blue oval 50h]

Call Dynamic/PA and be done with it!

[andy669]

I had similiar luck with Art Carr a few years ago. Not the original Art Carr, but the guys who bought Art Carrs name.

FWIW, I have heard that Precision makes real good stock type replacement stuff, but their high performance stuff isnt that great. I recommend Continental.

So Byron is open, eh? I heard they were, but we were in Georgia this weekend. I hope to have the engine on the dyno this weekend, maybe next weekend or the following I can get up there.

Good Luck
Andy

[420nitro]

They are open but theres a couple of new rules.
It's now a IHRA track, and you will need to have a competition license if you are going to run in the 10's. But still seem like real nice people.
As goes for the transmission....I am going with a TCT converter from Lenny. The transmission is up in the air. There is nothing wrong with it besides the metal and junk from the converter. I will have the trans shop go threw the trans AGAIN to clean out all the shit. I have been debating on going with a C-6. I understand the car will slow down a tenth or two but won't it last 2-3 times longer then the C-4 with less headaches???
If the car slows down 1-2 tenthes and trans lives 4-5 years I can live with that! There are some guys that are doing such a thing with there 10sec and faster cars.
Let me know what you think

[dirtyd0g]

If I am right, I just broke the Precision Industries Torque converter again for the third time!!!
The first time was on a dyno which Precision stated that it was there fault becuse of some clearences in the converter. They fixed it and sent it back. Cool,.. no problems but still had to have the trans gone threw for cleaning. I had to pay out of pocket. Then the second time I broke it and they stated that I can't use a trans-brake with there converters unless I use there sprag-less type converter. Are you kidding me!!! So I was like....fine... I paid for the second fix and had it set-up for the new engine combo anyway. Now with the new combo and LEAVING AT IDLE, it seems I broke it AGAIN! The reason why I think it broke again is because it acts the exact same way as it did before WHEN THE SPRAG WENT OUT THE VERY LAST TIME! Nothing wrong with the engine. The trans fuild never got hot or even smells burnt! But drives like shyte ever since that baby launch. First pass and it went to shyte. Now could it be something with the trans and not the converter...yes but I honestly don't think so because the fluid isn't burnt. Fluid even looks clean. Won't know for sure untill I remove the trans and check it out again

precision should not have sold you a cheap stock sprag for your application i personally always want to use sprag eliminators in any full race application

did you check the stator splines on the transmission for damage destroying all those stators could have damaged the shaft

are you using a single input shaft or dual input shafts? and if you are using dual input shafts are you using "lockup" torque converter?

[420nitro]

I am now using a TCT converter. I am also using a 1 piece input shaft and drum combo.

[LX5liter]

IMO the C-6 is a good idea. You can pick up the time you lose elsewhere. It will be worth it for the piece of mind.

It sounds like you had the same luck with Precision Industries as I had with G.E.R. Industries.

[dirtyd0g]

alot of people have trouble with g.e.r. converters i have cut a few of them open and thrown them in the scrap

the precision converters depend when you buy there most expensive converter you get a good unit as long as it doesn't have a sprag

i build converters identical to precisions expensive converters
here is what they cost for an aod c6 or c4 unit

up to 400 hp has stock sprag 625.00
unlimited horsepower spragless (race only) 650.00
unlimited horsepower serious duty sprag 1000.00

all have a 2 yr unlimited mileage guarantee
and stall is variable to whatever you need
these are 245 mm converters identical to those built by precision except precision doesn't use the expensive sprag type
i highly recommend spragless for any race only application
most any good converter shop can build these exact same units for you the parts come from a company called sonnax industries
they make some really great parts
in 6 years of building them i have not had a failure yet with a spragless converter
we offer cleaning and repair services of other companies aftermarket converters as well
in some cases i can completely refresh your converter for 75 dollars
pm me if you need anything fixed or built

[420nitro]

Aren't the spragless converters meant for mud racing vechiles?

Real short distances?
Besides you can't drive them on the street for any certain amount of distance.

I say run the sprag and pay the $1,000+ for the right converter or YOU WILL spend more on broken parts and new converters for your combo.

Converters are the most over looked part of a combination of a race or street/strip car besides the oil filter. IMO

To many people get to hyped up on heads, cam, intake and power adders and then over look the converter and wonder why there shit is SLOW! Maybe it's because you have a stock converter in the car and you are now to cheap to finish the car the right way! It's all about the ENTIRE package as a whole....and yes that means the transmission, converter, gearing as well as fuel, suspension, and chassis.

You want to be the boss..... then pay up or shut-up.

Sorry about the whole rant and rave but I see this every ******* day and it's getting old!

[dirtyd0g]

Originally posted by 420nitro
Aren't the spragless converters meant for mud racing vechiles?

not exactly a spragless converter will stay in high stall the entire time it will never switch to become more efficient

spragless is definately for race only vehicles with a spragless converter when you back off the gas you will have to get back on the gas pretty hard to get caught up with the rpm the converter requires to pull the vehicle

most engines over 400 horsepower will keep a converter in high stall the entire 1/4 anyway that is why the sprags go out because they hold alot of force

i have never had a complaint with anyone i have sold a spragless converter to for race only use however the first time someone tries to drive a spragless converter on the street they are complaining

[LX5liter]

Originally posted by 420nitro
Aren't the spragless converters meant for mud racing vechiles?

Real short distances?
Besides you can't drive them on the street for any certain amount of distance.

I say run the sprag and pay the $1,000+ for the right converter or YOU WILL spend more on broken parts and new converters for your combo.

Converters are the most over looked part of a combination of a race or street/strip car besides the oil filter. IMO

To many people get to hyped up on heads, cam, intake and power adders and then over look the converter and wonder why there shit is SLOW! Maybe it's because you have a stock converter in the car and you are now to cheap to finish the car the right way! It's all about the ENTIRE package as a whole....and yes that means the transmission, converter, gearing as well as fuel, suspension, and chassis.

You want to be the boss..... then pay up or shut-up.

Sorry about the whole rant and rave but I see this every ******* day and it's getting old!

Thats why I always recommend for people to add a decent convertor while they have the engine out for mods. some guys will spend big bucks on the engine and say "i'll do the convertor later"...makes you wonder.