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#1 |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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![]() Ok, these may be dumb questions, but I've never done either one before:
1) How do I install a new rear-main seal? I have my tranny, clutch and flywheel out of the car. 2) How does a clutch alingment tool work? I just purchased one last night, but am unsure as to how it is supposed to help me? Thanks in advance for the replies! E PS - Tremec 3550, McLeod Steel bellhousing, King Cobra clutch, and Fidanza aluminum flywheel going in this weekend!!! ![]() ------------------ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 38,000 miles 13.17 @ 106.14 mph w/ 2.138 60' |
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#2 |
Procharged!
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Hanover, PA
Posts: 1,539
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![]() Two easy questions and nobody replied..huh?
Well to replace the rear seal you need to, remove the old one. I like to use 2 sheetmetal screws, I screw them into the seal and pull it out, or you can use a small screw driver just make sure not to scratch the crank. Clean it all out really good with a carb cleaner or something and then put oil around the crank, then a buddy of mine showed me a trick he learns in school, pack grease around the spring in the back of the seal this holds the spring tight against the seal, I have done it with and with out the grease with out any issues. I also like to put a thin layer of Permatex around the seal and then gently tap it in place with a small hammer then take a small punch and make sure it is all the way in. Make sure you replace the pilot bearing while it is all apart if already haven't. You can rent a puller at most part stores,which makes it easier or I take and rip up some paper towels, soak then in water and pack them in the hole using a punch about the same ID as the bearing to pack them in, the water and towel get behind the bearing and pop it out and the water and paper towel will not hurt anything, and comes out easy. I have also heard of people using heavy grease to do the same thing, but the puller is the easiest way. After you put the pilot bearing, rear seal, inspection plate, fly wheel and disc and pp up stick the pilot tool in (it keeps the disc centered while you are putting it all together)(HINT: If you are having issues getting the tranny to go all the way in when reinstalling have some one oush in the clutch this will relase the PP pressure and allow the disc to moce and align and the tranny should go in easy), then tighten down the PP bolts. Make sure you put either liquid teflon or loctite (blue) on the flywheel bolts or they will leak. Also make sure you tork them all down, I think it's 85psi for the flywheel and 35psi for the PP, you may want to double check that. Hope that answers it all, Good Luck Rick ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! <B>12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree [This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 09-06-2001).] |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Walker, MI, USA
Posts: 1,202
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![]() Rick You beat me to it!!
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Utica, Michigan
Posts: 2,631
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![]() Me too! I was sleepin' at the light!
I just did this on my car about 2 weeks ago. ------------------ 1988 Mustang GT 11.8 @ 123 (7/14/01) 1992 BadAzz Wrangler 1993 Explorer See my car at: www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?179 |
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