After all these mods I run 14.5?!

SlowStang2 · 09-03-2001, 02:09 AM

This is pissing me off. My car ran a 15.2@90 stock. It got all the way down to 14.3@100 once. I have never seen it again. I finally got some heads and I am running the same lousy times. Now all things are considered. My traction has been consistently the same. If ANYTHING its suffered maybe a tenth or two AT MOST. It really isnt a problem. And weather? Hah! All my times were placed under the same temps. humidity, and ive always been at the same altitude. I've read on here with guys with convertibles running 13s and I cannot escape the mid 14s. As far as my shifting launching is concerned, its been changed constantly just to find a performance increase. I've launched higher and lower...Ive shifted higher and lower...nothing. Ive dumped so much damn money into this car and its not giving anything back. I even had the motor rebuilt recently! I run my car on the street and I own other cars that are not mustangs that are running 13s on street tires, so it IS possible to run this time on radials. I am really out of options. I figured it has to be from a bad combination or something is missing or christ i dont know.

Look at my sig. and let me know. Under stangnet i reviewed the cobra intake manifold set and users have stated that having this intake must be pretty much used with a 70mm T/B. Is this true? And knowing my luck, even if it does make some sort of improvement, i doubt ill see consistent 13 times with just an extra 5mm of air. If anyone is interested in how my times had gotten better throughout the mods I've made, look at my car in user's rides. Ive lost my faith. Help me find my way.

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

COME CORRECT · 09-03-2001, 02:47 AM

Look my man, With those mods you may need to get some tires. The power band has move around a bit. What do you leave at?

Skyman · 09-03-2001, 03:12 AM

What was your MPH, your 60', shift points altitude etc.

Is your motor running well?

Whats your timing, fuel pressure etc. Its a tuning issue. Don't give up, we can help you through it.

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

Unit 5302 · 09-03-2001, 03:33 AM

I would try dropping back to the 19lb injectors for a better spray pattern for one thing. You've hurt your low end with equal length shorties, but I think you can make it up. Are you running the stock tach? If you are, try shifting as high as 5800rpms. Powershift that thing too.

What was your trap speed on your 14.5 run? Did you pick up any speed?

Screw the morons at Stangnet. The Cobra was designed to work with a 65mm T/B, not a 70mm unit. Your combo sounds pretty decent, I'd expect you to be making in the area of 300hp or better. With that, you should be able to pull off some 13's@102 maybe?

Give us the full run down on your settings.

andy669 · 09-03-2001, 07:47 AM

What cam are you running? I was also wondering why the 3.55's? Youre mile-an houring good, what are your 60's? They cant be too good with those numbers. I'm guessing 2.2's. It took me forever to get my car in to the 13's too. look at my sig.
andy

------------------
3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff

SlowStang2 · 09-03-2001, 10:30 AM

ALright I ran it on a G-tech last night, but I do have a slip to go with it.

60' 2.31
1/8 9.4
MPH 76.73
1/4 14.501
MPH 96.86
The G-tech has always been accurate to me because I have used it at the track. The 1/4 times have always been the same, but of course, the MPH was off. My MPH last night was 103. The only mods I have made from this slip time are the HEADS and rebuild og engine(800 miles ago). Oh and a strut tower(getting subframes welded on wednesday). 0-60 5.9(best ever was 5.8)
Cam=stock. I havent changed it due to a possible chance of getting a lot of money for a charger.
I launch at 3000 (slip the clutch at a higher RPM and leaves at this RPM) I know this is not the best way, but I have tried other methods and they are a pain in the *** . Maybe one weak point on my part?
fuel pressure=38
shift points=4900-5200 Before heads car was dynoed and made most HP at 4750 RPMs and most TQ at 3500 RPMs. I do not know if these heads would change the highest HP RPM, so youre gonna have to tell me here.
Altitude=sea level (or whatever Moroso is)
Timing is set at 18<~~which is what the COMPUTER set itself to! When I manually set it to 14* it pinged and died at high RPMS. And when it got hot, HOLY SH.IT..! Dropped timing, worked but a mechanic hooked up that expensive computer code finder/clearer and changed the timing to 18 all by itself. I know, I dont get it either..

I have the 3.55s because I do highway driving. And I figured that would be fine due to previous mustang owners running mid 13s with these and STOCK cams. Now yes they arent converts. but i have weighed my car with other stangs and it weighs 3650 with me. Only 200 lbs more. 2 tenths off?

What angers me more than anything was that I ran a 14.3(my best) with stock heads, stock mass air, 19lb inj. and 3.08s. Now I may not be doing something right myself, but you have to believe all the trials I have given this thing. Statistically, I should of *accidentlly* gotten a decent time by now, if not that then a good MPH. What I am going to go do now is change out the inj. with the stock ones along with the stock mass air. I do not understand how this will benefit since I have all this air coming in, but its worth a shot. And If it runs the same, I am going to get better mileage so until I change the 24s and 77mm maf back in, maybe ill have another option or two. Hopefully..

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

SlowStang2 · 09-03-2001, 01:24 PM

OK 3 1/2 hours later I did it. 19lb inj. back in along with the stock mass air and I gotta tell ya, it feels the same. Not saying necessarily that thats not good. Other than the fact that I did spend some money on these things and I couldnt tell any difference between them and stock, so thats kinda a bitc.h. There I was looking at the Pro-M 77mm Mass Air and the stock one seeing a very big difference, yet no noticeable performance gains. Ill run it again on the g-tech at the same place with probably the same conditions and well see if it runs slightly better as is.

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

1BAD89 · 09-03-2001, 01:50 PM

Are you running any kind of slicks, or DR's?

------------------
1989 GT, 3:55's, full exhaust, 4 in. hood, Pro 5.0, Have many other parts 4 sale. All parts for sale now.

2000 Camaro SS-A4, 13.7's bone stock.

1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more!

SlowStang2 · 09-03-2001, 02:00 PM

No I am only running 275/40/17 street tires. I dont plan on changing to slicks or DR because I have known people that can run at least mid 13s on radials. There are people on here that can do it too. Besides, my traction really isnt bad. Like I said before, if I were to blame my traction for any part of the lousy ETs, I would say they are responsible for 3 tenths of it at most. But by all means, if u have any other suggestions or where to crash this thing go ahead and tell me.

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

andy669 · 09-03-2001, 02:22 PM

Yer 60's are even worse than I thought. If you want a respectable et with your combination, youre gonna have to get them down around 1.9-1.8. You say that you dont want drag radials cause there are other people running 13's on radials. Are they doing it in a sn95 convertible? Probably not. I seem to remember Killercanary got his into the 13's, i cant remember his combination, but i remember being impressed with it. You might search back a couple weeks and find his thread. Besides slicks and weight transfer, i think you need 2 things: Cam, autologic chip. (preferrably from jms.) I think an e303 would really wake your car up, it would even work fairly well with a blower. As for the air meter and injectors not making a difference, im not surprised. I figured out that I had to spend a bunch of money on my car to get it ready to go fast. After I spent 3 or 4k on little stuff, the big stuff (heads, cam, intakes) made a big difference.
andy

------------------
3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff

erl2589 · 09-03-2001, 03:20 PM

Your car is heavy, your going to need a little more gear. Your not getting the full benifits of all your engine mods with the stock cam. My car runs the same MPH granny shifting or power shift, ALL the ET differnce comes in the first 60' for me. It takes a 2.0 60' to get me into the 13's. I leave at 1500/1800 on Firestone SZ50's (225 60 15's) Our cars are differnt but I hope this helps.

Good luck,

Earl

------------------
90LX 5.0 5 speed. 3.55's, pulleys, exaust...13.96@98mph. 220rwhp 281tq. BBK springs, Monroe GP's.

SlowStang2 · 09-03-2001, 06:44 PM

OK I looked up Killcanary's setup and hes running 12.9s now. He has DRs, custom cam, EEC tuner, and 4.10 gears. These are the only mods I can see that would bring noticeable changes. I am not sure if my 14.5 would drop a second and a half just from compying these though. The reason I am so resistant to getting other parts is just that. I have dropped a lot of money into this car and now I have to drop more money into my car just to wake up the other well paid parts? Well I already did that. Rule number one was get new heads, anything is better than stock, you MUST get new heads! Well here I am and I am a dissatisfied customer. However, I KNOW this thing is faster. For one, I can feel it pull harder throughout gears and two, I can finally chirp 3rd! Never could I do that before. Heh, but my 1st to second shift is still the same type of chirp/peel. Which brings me to a question. If I shift at 5100, I get minimal tire chirpage..if I shift at 4800 I peel out bad HENCE the need for the DRs you guys suggest or even some lower control arms. Now the common sense question is, given the best traction and same power RPM outage, would I want to shift where I have so much power I would peel out? Or do I want to shift a little higher than what my dynoed RPM said was my highest HP point(4750)? I would assume shift where the traction is bad cuz it is obvious that thats where the most power is made(or is it torque?), but I thought shifting a little higher from where you made most HP was appropriate. Lets also not forget that I dynoed my car before heads, so might that change the highest HP RPM point? Now if i had the DRs I would hook up and would not peel out through the shifts and get better times right? BUT as god as my witness I do not want to spend another dollar on another part from an ET improvement when I can just tune what I got and what I do.

As far as getting a cam goes, I have read another post saying that the stock cam is good enough for up to 12 second passes. I am only asking mid 13s. Not too much to ask is it? Let the record reflect that I am going out in a few to G-tech the hell out of my car. I WILL come home with a better time than 14.5!

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

Stang Runner · 09-03-2001, 07:15 PM

3650LB with you in it.
I have a LX that is 3060LB with a full tank and with me in it is 3240lbs That is Over 400LBS more!
I have run 14.28 That was with 3/4 of a tank of gas and I had a 1 passanger in it so the car was about 3425lb. I would think That your car cant be runing great or some thing. I hope you can get it up and running good soon!!!

------------------
14.28@103.0 on a G-Tech Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C
Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5,
NOW it is time for Real power STUFF I Have and will put on after I get everthing: Mac cold intake, 70MM TB, Valve covers (COOL ONES)255 Fuel pump.
Next to get: rocker arms,Cam,TFS Heads,Injectors 26,Holley intake, What might I need???
See It at <A HREF="http://www.computerconquest.com" TARGET=_blank>www.computerconquest.com<

SlowStang2 · 09-03-2001, 08:51 PM

Stang Runner, well thats why I am helpless here. I dont know where to look or what to change. but anyway.....
UPDATE!!!!!
Ok I just got back from the running the living shi.t out of my car. I went out on Pratt Whitney(on the way to moroso) and G-teched it. I must of made 8 runs, driving inbetween, so time to cool off, and heres what about i ran..
1st run launched at 3300...shifted at 5000 what did i get? 5.9 0-60 14.5@101(MPH is always more)
2nd-4th run launched the same shifted earlier 4800. 0-60 6.0 14.44@101.
3rd-? runs launched same shifted at 4500-4600 0-60 6.1 UGH 14.68@100. Figures.
Last few runs and some sweat, tears, and cuss words later. Launched at 2200 shifted at 5300 (as was told by some1 on stangenet) 0-60 5.8 14.3@102. Thank you! Not good enough for me!
Last run. launched same RPM shifted at 5500 powershifting.
0-60 5.7 14.28@102. This still sux, but I did not know about shifting this high before. Is this because of the heads?? Now if I was at a track and I had time to cool down, maybe 13s are around the corner.

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

Unit 5302 · 09-04-2001, 12:12 AM

I think I posted earlier, if you are using the factory tach, it's not always accurate. Which is why shifting higher can help. Yes the heads will move your powerband higher as well.

A 14.28 with a hot car is a significant improvement over 14.5. Try going to 5800 on the stock tach. The upgraded MAF meter should be helpful, but it will need to be recalibrated for the 19lb injectors, and it's a little big for your application. If you want, picking up a Cobra 73mm MAF on Ebay could be a cheap solution? I haven't priced them.

What's your fuel pressure at? I agree, you should be able to get your 60ft to drop a good 2 tenths. Remember 2 tenths on the 60ft is worth up to 4 on the big end. That would put you well into the 13's.

90dpscoupe · 09-04-2001, 01:31 AM

you have to be loyal to your car, your name is "slowstang" if i called myself that, my car would find out, and get mad, and slow down

lol, alright must get sleep,

units right though, fuel pressure needs to be adjusted most likely, and with heads, you can probaly shift much higher than before, kinda the whole point in buying them.

------------------
90 lx coupe: 5spd, 177k miles, steeda water pump pulley, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 98.17
Best 60': 1.9607

next mods:4.10's, slicks.

ed1371 · 09-04-2001, 02:22 AM

ok, I am heavier than you (3700 with me in it...)I have significatly less mods than you (no real engine work) and I can run 14.6

your 60' time will make or break a run, you say you dont have traction probs but I dunno...

I have to leave at just above idle on street tires...
get som subs, get some LCA,
get some N2O if you really want to break out of the 14's!

Seriously, I think your car is capable of 13's but all the power in the world wont help if you dont have ther right tires!

DO NOT GO BY THE STOCK TACH!
It is way off, my shift light is set at 5100 rpm...my tach reaches 5500 when the light goes on! want to get a cheap shift light? go to http://harlan.sketchy.net/ they are 35 bucks, easy to install and are programable to whatever RPM you want to shift on...

-ed

------------------
My Mustang
91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter,King Cobra clutch, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA: shorties,subs,strut tower brc, Comp eng. 6 point cage, dynomax 2 1/2" exhaust, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC cold air kit, off road h pipe.

SlowStang2 · 09-04-2001, 10:29 AM

Yea you guys are right about shifting higher. When I had my gears installed in 2 months ago, I asked for suggestions on where to shift and some peeps on here said to shift earlier than I normally would with the 3.08s and that didnt render me anything other than peeling out more which I thought would mean more power, but after the heads I was powershifting at 5500 at the stock tach. The redline looks like at 5800 on stock tach..so this is where I do it? Since the stock tach is off and all?
Unit, my 19lb inj. are working with the stock mass air again. The inj. are stock as well. The only aftermarket induction i have laying around was what I took out yesterday. I took out the 24s and pro-m 77maf which was calibrated for the 24s. Now that I know where to shift I am thinking if putting them back in and shifting right will render me even more improvement. What do you guys think of that? Oh yea fuel pressure is at 38* with 24s and 19s. Should I change it or leave it be?
Ed, subs are going in tomorrow (steeda full lengths)! What are LCAs?

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

elma22 · 09-04-2001, 11:16 AM

As the guys mentioned it before, you need some good tuning to take the advantage of your mods, specialy with the SN95 computers being one of the worst. Here is a link to a website that offers a reprogramable chips. Haven't tryed them myself yet so I can't tell you how effective they are. Give it a look anyways. Goodluck.
http://www.tweecer.com/downloads.html

------------------

Unit 5302 · 09-04-2001, 07:17 PM

It's hard to give proper advice on shifting when you have the stock tach. Redline is at 5900rpms, and fuel cutoff is 6250. I would bet your stock tach is reading high.

Stock fuel pressure is 38psi. With your mods and 24lb injectors to keep the same injector cycle you'd be set right about where you were. With the 19lbers, setting them up to maybe 45psi or so might give you a little better results. You could try upgrading to a fox body computer, but they don't have the electric fan control built in. I think I read somebody offers a conversion harness, but I forgot who. The fox computer will be more aggressive. Otherwise, just get your launches down.

Are you dropping or slipping out the clutch?

09-03-2001, 02:09 AM	#1
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	After all these mods I run 14.5?! This is pissing me off. My car ran a 15.2@90 stock. It got all the way down to 14.3@100 once. I have never seen it again. I finally got some heads and I am running the same lousy times. Now all things are considered. My traction has been consistently the same. If ANYTHING its suffered maybe a tenth or two AT MOST. It really isnt a problem. And weather? Hah! All my times were placed under the same temps. humidity, and ive always been at the same altitude. I've read on here with guys with convertibles running 13s and I cannot escape the mid 14s. As far as my shifting launching is concerned, its been changed constantly just to find a performance increase. I've launched higher and lower...Ive shifted higher and lower...nothing. Ive dumped so much damn money into this car and its not giving anything back. I even had the motor rebuilt recently! I run my car on the street and I own other cars that are not mustangs that are running 13s on street tires, so it IS possible to run this time on radials. I am really out of options. I figured it has to be from a bad combination or something is missing or christ i dont know. Look at my sig. and let me know. Under stangnet i reviewed the cobra intake manifold set and users have stated that having this intake must be pretty much used with a 70mm T/B. Is this true? And knowing my luck, even if it does make some sort of improvement, i doubt ill see consistent 13 times with just an extra 5mm of air. If anyone is interested in how my times had gotten better throughout the mods I've made, look at my car in user's rides. Ive lost my faith. Help me find my way. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Rough idle since mods	Mustang_289	Windsor Power	14	06-28-2004 09:54 PM
What mods next?	SteveAZ	Windsor Power	0	05-20-2003 09:00 PM
next mods...	92Stang_	Windsor Power	1	05-04-2003 03:09 AM
Brake mods ( and other first mods) for a 98 Vert	Chevyguy	Modular Madness	11	09-19-2002 10:03 AM
Making a fast Street Car = More mods?	MrClean	Windsor Power	15	09-11-2001 04:40 PM

09-03-2001, 02:47 AM	#2
COME CORRECT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 1999 Location: Headed EAST in 5 days Posts: 252	Look my man, With those mods you may need to get some tires. The power band has move around a bit. What do you leave at?

09-03-2001, 03:12 AM	#3
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	What was your MPH, your 60', shift points altitude etc. Is your motor running well? Whats your timing, fuel pressure etc. Its a tuning issue. Don't give up, we can help you through it. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor *332RWHP, 350rwtq*

09-03-2001, 03:33 AM	#4
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	I would try dropping back to the 19lb injectors for a better spray pattern for one thing. You've hurt your low end with equal length shorties, but I think you can make it up. Are you running the stock tach? If you are, try shifting as high as 5800rpms. Powershift that thing too. What was your trap speed on your 14.5 run? Did you pick up any speed? Screw the morons at Stangnet. The Cobra was designed to work with a 65mm T/B, not a 70mm unit. Your combo sounds pretty decent, I'd expect you to be making in the area of 300hp or better. With that, you should be able to pull off some 13's@102 maybe? Give us the full run down on your settings.

09-03-2001, 07:47 AM	#5
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	What cam are you running? I was also wondering why the 3.55's? Youre mile-an houring good, what are your 60's? They cant be too good with those numbers. I'm guessing 2.2's. It took me forever to get my car in to the 13's too. look at my sig. andy ------------------ 3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff

09-03-2001, 10:30 AM	#6
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	ALright I ran it on a G-tech last night, but I do have a slip to go with it. 60' 2.31 1/8 9.4 MPH 76.73 1/4 14.501 MPH 96.86 The G-tech has always been accurate to me because I have used it at the track. The 1/4 times have always been the same, but of course, the MPH was off. My MPH last night was 103. The only mods I have made from this slip time are the HEADS and rebuild og engine(800 miles ago). Oh and a strut tower(getting subframes welded on wednesday). 0-60 5.9(best ever was 5.8) Cam=stock. I havent changed it due to a possible chance of getting a lot of money for a charger. I launch at 3000 (slip the clutch at a higher RPM and leaves at this RPM) I know this is not the best way, but I have tried other methods and they are a pain in the *** . Maybe one weak point on my part? fuel pressure=38 shift points=4900-5200 Before heads car was dynoed and made most HP at 4750 RPMs and most TQ at 3500 RPMs. I do not know if these heads would change the highest HP RPM, so youre gonna have to tell me here. Altitude=sea level (or whatever Moroso is) Timing is set at 18<~~which is what the COMPUTER set itself to! When I manually set it to 14* it pinged and died at high RPMS. And when it got hot, HOLY SH.IT..! Dropped timing, worked but a mechanic hooked up that expensive computer code finder/clearer and changed the timing to 18 all by itself. I know, I dont get it either.. I have the 3.55s because I do highway driving. And I figured that would be fine due to previous mustang owners running mid 13s with these and STOCK cams. Now yes they arent converts. but i have weighed my car with other stangs and it weighs 3650 with me. Only 200 lbs more. 2 tenths off? What angers me more than anything was that I ran a 14.3(my best) with stock heads, stock mass air, 19lb inj. and 3.08s. Now I may not be doing something right myself, but you have to believe all the trials I have given this thing. Statistically, I should of accidentlly gotten a decent time by now, if not that then a good MPH. What I am going to go do now is change out the inj. with the stock ones along with the stock mass air. I do not understand how this will benefit since I have all this air coming in, but its worth a shot. And If it runs the same, I am going to get better mileage so until I change the 24s and 77mm maf back in, maybe ill have another option or two. Hopefully.. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

09-03-2001, 01:24 PM	#7
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	OK 3 1/2 hours later I did it. 19lb inj. back in along with the stock mass air and I gotta tell ya, it feels the same. Not saying necessarily that thats not good. Other than the fact that I did spend some money on these things and I couldnt tell any difference between them and stock, so thats kinda a bitc.h. There I was looking at the Pro-M 77mm Mass Air and the stock one seeing a very big difference, yet no noticeable performance gains. Ill run it again on the g-tech at the same place with probably the same conditions and well see if it runs slightly better as is. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

09-03-2001, 01:50 PM	#8
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	Are you running any kind of slicks, or DR's? ------------------ 1989 GT, 3:55's, full exhaust, 4 in. hood, Pro 5.0, Have many other parts 4 sale. All parts for sale now. 2000 Camaro SS-A4, 13.7's bone stock. 1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more!

09-03-2001, 02:00 PM	#9
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	No I am only running 275/40/17 street tires. I dont plan on changing to slicks or DR because I have known people that can run at least mid 13s on radials. There are people on here that can do it too. Besides, my traction really isnt bad. Like I said before, if I were to blame my traction for any part of the lousy ETs, I would say they are responsible for 3 tenths of it at most. But by all means, if u have any other suggestions or where to crash this thing go ahead and tell me. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

09-03-2001, 02:22 PM	#10
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	Yer 60's are even worse than I thought. If you want a respectable et with your combination, youre gonna have to get them down around 1.9-1.8. You say that you dont want drag radials cause there are other people running 13's on radials. Are they doing it in a sn95 convertible? Probably not. I seem to remember Killercanary got his into the 13's, i cant remember his combination, but i remember being impressed with it. You might search back a couple weeks and find his thread. Besides slicks and weight transfer, i think you need 2 things: Cam, autologic chip. (preferrably from jms.) I think an e303 would really wake your car up, it would even work fairly well with a blower. As for the air meter and injectors not making a difference, im not surprised. I figured out that I had to spend a bunch of money on my car to get it ready to go fast. After I spent 3 or 4k on little stuff, the big stuff (heads, cam, intakes) made a big difference. andy ------------------ 3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff

09-03-2001, 03:20 PM	#11
erl2589 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Yucaipa, CA, USA Posts: 146	Your car is heavy, your going to need a little more gear. Your not getting the full benifits of all your engine mods with the stock cam. My car runs the same MPH granny shifting or power shift, ALL the ET differnce comes in the first 60' for me. It takes a 2.0 60' to get me into the 13's. I leave at 1500/1800 on Firestone SZ50's (225 60 15's) Our cars are differnt but I hope this helps. Good luck, Earl ------------------ 90LX 5.0 5 speed. 3.55's, pulleys, exaust...13.96@98mph. 220rwhp 281tq. BBK springs, Monroe GP's.

09-03-2001, 06:44 PM	#12
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	OK I looked up Killcanary's setup and hes running 12.9s now. He has DRs, custom cam, EEC tuner, and 4.10 gears. These are the only mods I can see that would bring noticeable changes. I am not sure if my 14.5 would drop a second and a half just from compying these though. The reason I am so resistant to getting other parts is just that. I have dropped a lot of money into this car and now I have to drop more money into my car just to wake up the other well paid parts? Well I already did that. Rule number one was get new heads, anything is better than stock, you MUST get new heads! Well here I am and I am a dissatisfied customer. However, I KNOW this thing is faster. For one, I can feel it pull harder throughout gears and two, I can finally chirp 3rd! Never could I do that before. Heh, but my 1st to second shift is still the same type of chirp/peel. Which brings me to a question. If I shift at 5100, I get minimal tire chirpage..if I shift at 4800 I peel out bad HENCE the need for the DRs you guys suggest or even some lower control arms. Now the common sense question is, given the best traction and same power RPM outage, would I want to shift where I have so much power I would peel out? Or do I want to shift a little higher than what my dynoed RPM said was my highest HP point(4750)? I would assume shift where the traction is bad cuz it is obvious that thats where the most power is made(or is it torque?), but I thought shifting a little higher from where you made most HP was appropriate. Lets also not forget that I dynoed my car before heads, so might that change the highest HP RPM point? Now if i had the DRs I would hook up and would not peel out through the shifts and get better times right? BUT as god as my witness I do not want to spend another dollar on another part from an ET improvement when I can just tune what I got and what I do. As far as getting a cam goes, I have read another post saying that the stock cam is good enough for up to 12 second passes. I am only asking mid 13s. Not too much to ask is it? Let the record reflect that I am going out in a few to G-tech the hell out of my car. I WILL come home with a better time than 14.5! ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

09-03-2001, 07:15 PM	#13
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	3650LB with you in it. I have a LX that is 3060LB with a full tank and with me in it is 3240lbs That is Over 400LBS more! I have run 14.28 That was with 3/4 of a tank of gas and I had a 1 passanger in it so the car was about 3425lb. I would think That your car cant be runing great or some thing. I hope you can get it up and running good soon!!! ------------------ 14.28@103.0 on a G-Tech Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5, NOW it is time for Real power STUFF I Have and will put on after I get everthing: Mac cold intake, 70MM TB, Valve covers (COOL ONES)255 Fuel pump. Next to get: rocker arms,Cam,TFS Heads,Injectors 26,Holley intake, What might I need??? See It at <A HREF="http://www.computerconquest.com" TARGET=_blank>www.computerconquest.com<

09-03-2001, 08:51 PM	#14
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	Stang Runner, well thats why I am helpless here. I dont know where to look or what to change. but anyway..... UPDATE!!!!! Ok I just got back from the running the living shi.t out of my car. I went out on Pratt Whitney(on the way to moroso) and G-teched it. I must of made 8 runs, driving inbetween, so time to cool off, and heres what about i ran.. 1st run launched at 3300...shifted at 5000 what did i get? 5.9 0-60 14.5@101(MPH is always more) 2nd-4th run launched the same shifted earlier 4800. 0-60 6.0 14.44@101. 3rd-? runs launched same shifted at 4500-4600 0-60 6.1 UGH 14.68@100. Figures. Last few runs and some sweat, tears, and cuss words later. Launched at 2200 shifted at 5300 (as was told by some1 on stangenet) 0-60 5.8 14.3@102. Thank you! Not good enough for me! Last run. launched same RPM shifted at 5500 powershifting. 0-60 5.7 14.28@102. This still sux, but I did not know about shifting this high before. Is this because of the heads?? Now if I was at a track and I had time to cool down, maybe 13s are around the corner. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

09-04-2001, 12:12 AM	#15
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	I think I posted earlier, if you are using the factory tach, it's not always accurate. Which is why shifting higher can help. Yes the heads will move your powerband higher as well. A 14.28 with a hot car is a significant improvement over 14.5. Try going to 5800 on the stock tach. The upgraded MAF meter should be helpful, but it will need to be recalibrated for the 19lb injectors, and it's a little big for your application. If you want, picking up a Cobra 73mm MAF on Ebay could be a cheap solution? I haven't priced them. What's your fuel pressure at? I agree, you should be able to get your 60ft to drop a good 2 tenths. Remember 2 tenths on the 60ft is worth up to 4 on the big end. That would put you well into the 13's.

09-04-2001, 01:31 AM	#16
90dpscoupe Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa Posts: 1,407	you have to be loyal to your car, your name is "slowstang" if i called myself that, my car would find out, and get mad, and slow down lol, alright must get sleep, units right though, fuel pressure needs to be adjusted most likely, and with heads, you can probaly shift much higher than before, kinda the whole point in buying them. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: 5spd, 177k miles, steeda water pump pulley, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 next mods:4.10's, slicks.

09-04-2001, 02:22 AM	#17
ed1371 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 469	ok, I am heavier than you (3700 with me in it...)I have significatly less mods than you (no real engine work) and I can run 14.6 your 60' time will make or break a run, you say you dont have traction probs but I dunno... I have to leave at just above idle on street tires... get som subs, get some LCA, get some N2O if you really want to break out of the 14's! Seriously, I think your car is capable of 13's but all the power in the world wont help if you dont have ther right tires! DO NOT GO BY THE STOCK TACH! It is way off, my shift light is set at 5100 rpm...my tach reaches 5500 when the light goes on! want to get a cheap shift light? go to http://harlan.sketchy.net/ they are 35 bucks, easy to install and are programable to whatever RPM you want to shift on... -ed ------------------ My Mustang 91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter,King Cobra clutch, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA: shorties,subs,strut tower brc, Comp eng. 6 point cage, dynomax 2 1/2" exhaust, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC cold air kit, off road h pipe.

09-04-2001, 10:29 AM	#18
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	Yea you guys are right about shifting higher. When I had my gears installed in 2 months ago, I asked for suggestions on where to shift and some peeps on here said to shift earlier than I normally would with the 3.08s and that didnt render me anything other than peeling out more which I thought would mean more power, but after the heads I was powershifting at 5500 at the stock tach. The redline looks like at 5800 on stock tach..so this is where I do it? Since the stock tach is off and all? Unit, my 19lb inj. are working with the stock mass air again. The inj. are stock as well. The only aftermarket induction i have laying around was what I took out yesterday. I took out the 24s and pro-m 77maf which was calibrated for the 24s. Now that I know where to shift I am thinking if putting them back in and shifting right will render me even more improvement. What do you guys think of that? Oh yea fuel pressure is at 38* with 24s and 19s. Should I change it or leave it be? Ed, subs are going in tomorrow (steeda full lengths)! What are LCAs? ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

09-04-2001, 11:16 AM	#19
elma22 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Montreal Posts: 45	As the guys mentioned it before, you need some good tuning to take the advantage of your mods, specialy with the SN95 computers being one of the worst. Here is a link to a website that offers a reprogramable chips. Haven't tryed them myself yet so I can't tell you how effective they are. Give it a look anyways. Goodluck. http://www.tweecer.com/downloads.html ------------------

09-04-2001, 07:17 PM	#20
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	It's hard to give proper advice on shifting when you have the stock tach. Redline is at 5900rpms, and fuel cutoff is 6250. I would bet your stock tach is reading high. Stock fuel pressure is 38psi. With your mods and 24lb injectors to keep the same injector cycle you'd be set right about where you were. With the 19lbers, setting them up to maybe 45psi or so might give you a little better results. You could try upgrading to a fox body computer, but they don't have the electric fan control built in. I think I read somebody offers a conversion harness, but I forgot who. The fox computer will be more aggressive. Otherwise, just get your launches down. Are you dropping or slipping out the clutch?