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#1 |
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![]() Does removing the pump do anything like give you hp or something like that.
is it hard to remove? if not can anyone explain to me how to do it Thanks |
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#2 |
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![]() It doesn't increase power much. But every little bit helps. Yes, it's easy to remove. I think it's only 2 or 3 bolts. You'll have to decide if you want to remove or leave it in place and plug that tube that goes from your exhaust to the passenter side of the motor where all the smog stuff is (vacuum lines, sensors), depending on if you have strict smog laws where you live? Once the pump is removed you can get a shorter belt which is much shorter than the factory belt because there is one less accessory to turn.
The only thing I'm not clear on (anyone??) is once you remove the smog equipment will that constantly trip up codes and make the engine light come on? Is it possible to have all the smog equipment removed and not have the check engine light on? And if the check engine light is on...does that mean that the EEC-IV has gone into safety mode...& my motor isn't running at it's full potential? Sorry to answer a question with a bunch more questions, but since we were on the subject.... ![]() |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Springfield, Ma, usa
Posts: 706
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![]() There is no power gains, see post by 5.0Pony that I just replied to.
Yes, it is easy to take off. I removed mine for appearance reasons, not for performance reasons. I wouldn't advise removing the pump if you plan on running cats or have strict emissions laws. The pump is there to feed fresh air to the cats so they don't clog up with carbon. If you do remove the pump you will need to plug the tube in the h-pipe and the thermacator holes in the back of the heads. As far as check engine light goes Simi Stang, there shouldn't be any problems. Since there are no electrical connections to the smog pump and all it does in blow air to the cats. I can't see how it would cause a problem. If you were to remove all emissions components, EGR and such, then I think will start to run into problems then.
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NewEngland Auto www.baystategearheads.com -91 Mustang Coupe, ex 4cyl (sold) -99 F150, 3" lift, 35" Procomps, Magnaflow exhaust |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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![]() Keep your O2 sensors hooked up. Trash the rest. It didn't make my engine run any better or worse. Mileage was the same too. Engine light did not come one. I did it because the bearings in my pump went out. If you're lazy like me, cap off the A.I.R. tube (ugly rusty tube coming out the back of the heads) with a bypass cap. You don't even have to clamp it because it's a tight fit. If you remove the A.I.R. tube, you'll need to plug the two holes with bolts. Keep in mind that your cats will become fouled up (if you still have them).
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#5 | |
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![]() Quote:
Just last weekend I removed the charcoal canister and the vacuum line that goes to the front of the manifold straight back from the distributor. I plugged the vacuum outlet on the manifold. But there was a sensor right above the charcoal canister that is now unhooked. So I'm wondering if that will cause my check engine light to come on? It's been on for a while now...I haven't gotten around to pulling the codes lately. Basically I was wondering what smog equipment most of you took out when removing your smog pumps, and if you went a step further and took out the charcoal canister, sensors, vacuum lines, etc.? How is it running now? Are your check engine lights on? Also has anyone removed some of those hard vacuum lines that go from the EGR & where the thermactor tube comes up into the engine comparment? If so, which ones can I remove? Should they be plugged? It's been a while since I originally ripped out the majority of my smog equipment, but I'm pretty sure one or two of those hard vacuum lines did go down to some smog stuff...and one of them is broken off right at that rubber connector thing where the 4 hard lines come together. Just wondering if it's ok...or if someone else has some detailed smog equipmenmt removal knowledge to share with me?? |
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