Which smog elim. Kit?

Shotgun28 · 05-03-2001, 11:55 AM

I was in the market for a new smog eliminator kit, and was looking through a few catalogs, and I was wondering if there is a big difference between kits. Example between Ford racing and say another company like Auto-specialties. Just between these two alone there is a $20 dollor difference. If it performs as well, I was thinking might as well get the cheaper one, what do you think. Thanks in advance.

Kevin

------------------
91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip,GT40 P heads, looking at new exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus.

Rick 91GT · 05-03-2001, 12:35 PM

I actually think those kits are a joke unless you have a power adder that needs that pulley for the belt path. I yanked it all and run a shorter belt, right now it hits the alt, water pump, and the crank..I don't have any AC or PS or emissions stuff.

------------------
Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

LX XLR8R · 05-03-2001, 03:22 PM

waste of $$$..
"how bout you give me all your $$ and i kick you i the balls and we call it even"-vegas vacation

------------------
1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..
AIM=onesillynotch

Shotgun28 · 05-03-2001, 04:39 PM

Well I would usually agree with you, but my belt is hitting itself, so I need to get a pulley back into the picture , so really I do need one, but thank you for your comments. My original thought was to stay pulley free, but either because I have A/C still or something my belt is rubbing itself, and I did get a smaller belt 70.5, so my next step is to go back to the smog pulley.

------------------
91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip,GT40 P heads, looking at new exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus.

05-04-2001, 12:56 AM

I bought the Ford Racing smog idler and it works great. If i could do it again, i'd buy the ford one again.

------------------
'84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FRPP aluminum radiator & 180* t-stat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, FRPP smog pump idler

[This message has been edited by 84stangLX (edited 05-04-2001).]

LX XLR8R · 05-04-2001, 08:39 AM

so then try a smaller belt..ive ran it b4 so i know it will work

------------------
1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..
AIM=onesillynotch

QUIN · 05-04-2001, 09:05 AM

i agree with rick and lx. you dont need this kit. easiest way would be to drop the a/c and move the tensioner pully to that side (what i did). im sure i will miss the a/c soon, but i never used it anyway. (anyone want to buy and a/c converted to r134 or whatever the new stuff is?)
if its rubbing now with a short belt, than try to adjust the tensioner pully. that pully is the key to adjusting the belt path.

------------------
Quin, 87 GT,306,forged pistons,edelbrock head\intak,steeda#18cam,1.7rr,MSD Blaster tfi coil,A9L,pro-m75mm,24#inj,accufab65mm,2.5"pipes,hooker headers,dynomax exhaust,3.73 gr,110 lph fp,180*therm,moroso cold air,ASP pullies, weld rims

The beast has awoken!

I see your shwartz is as big as mine, now lets see how well you handle it!

Violent84 · 05-04-2001, 02:07 PM

Another thing you can do is take your stock pump and gut it. That's what I did. All you have to do is pull the back off of it and bust out the little fiberglass fins that work off of the cam and presto. It'll still look stock w/o the possibility of power loss. Just a sugg.

later,
Violent

------------------
84 GT-350, 2.5" Ram air hood, Centerline Pintails, 5-lug conversion, Recaro's, 140 speedo, 8.8 conversion, 3.73's, Motorsport A/C eliminator, Hurst shifter, ASP pulleys, Eibach pro kit, KYB's, Flowmaster exhaust, Long tubes, Flowtech off road h-pipe, .030 overbore, Extreme Energy 268, Ported stock heads, Pete Jackson Gear drive, Weiand Xcelerator intake, Max Motorsports aluminum rack bushings, 3-core radiator,and more to come!

Mach 1 · 05-04-2001, 03:48 PM

I have used the ford idler pulley, and although pricey, it is a quality piece and works well. Some people dont want belt issues, and would rather just run the idler pulley, this is understandable.

I recently came across another way to do this, and it is the best ive seen yet, looks great, and it eliminates the entire alternater mounting bracket (that huge hunk of aluminum), the tensioner pulley, and the smog pump, and it leaves great clearance so you dont have belt rubbing problems(because it eliminates the tensioner entirely). It really cleans up the engine compartment and works well. It is March's alt. pulley kit, part no. 1465, and is around $58.00.

------------------
1993 GT/AOD
'93 Mustang GT

fiveohpatrol · 05-04-2001, 03:58 PM

another thing to try is to take off the tensioner and drill a new hole on the bracket that it mounts to drill it to where it will move the tensioner up (counterclockwise) this fixed my problem, the same thing was heppening to me, its still a little close but it will be ok with the next smaller belt, hope this helps

------------------
88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rockers,intake or ported heads

1985Mustang · 05-07-2001, 12:57 PM

There is no need for any of that. Get an 84.5 or 85" long belt, and reroute it around the crank and water pump so that it makes an "S" shape. Then it will not hit the tensioner and everything still spins the right direction.

------------------
1985 Mustang GT

Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 carb, 9mm FMS wires, 15^ timing, no smog pump, 8.8 w/3.08

red82gt · 05-07-2001, 04:18 PM

1985mustang is right, from the crank, go clockwise around and run the belt up to the alternator, under the tensioner, over the A/C compressor, over the power steering, to the top of the water pump and around back to the crank, if you've got A/C the belt needed is the belt used for cars without A/C. This way the belt turns everything the right way and you even get more "wrap" around the pulleys than the stock routing. So simple, yet so many people don't see it.

------------------
GT-40 heads (ported, polished, + milled), B303 cam, 1.7rr's, JE pistons, Offy intake, Carter AFB 625cfm carb, Flowtech 1 5/8" shortys, Flowtech X-pipe, MAC Flowpath exhaust, MAC pulleys, 373's, subframes, Eibachs+Tokicos, B+M ripper, FMS Clutch, Zoom Quadrant+cable, 17" CSA Ultra rims, 235/45ZR17 Yokohama AVS S4's, MSD 6A ignition+coil, FMS 9mm wires, Carbed, Naturally Aspirated, and Nasty!

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05-03-2001, 11:55 AM	#1
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	Which smog elim. Kit? I was in the market for a new smog eliminator kit, and was looking through a few catalogs, and I was wondering if there is a big difference between kits. Example between Ford racing and say another company like Auto-specialties. Just between these two alone there is a $20 dollor difference. If it performs as well, I was thinking might as well get the cheaper one, what do you think. Thanks in advance. Kevin ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip,GT40 P heads, looking at new exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus.

05-03-2001, 12:35 PM	#2
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	I actually think those kits are a joke unless you have a power adder that needs that pulley for the belt path. I yanked it all and run a shorter belt, right now it hits the alt, water pump, and the crank..I don't have any AC or PS or emissions stuff. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

05-03-2001, 03:22 PM	#3
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	waste of $$$.. "how bout you give me all your $$ and i kick you i the balls and we call it even"-vegas vacation ------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch

05-03-2001, 04:39 PM	#4
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	Well I would usually agree with you, but my belt is hitting itself, so I need to get a pulley back into the picture , so really I do need one, but thank you for your comments. My original thought was to stay pulley free, but either because I have A/C still or something my belt is rubbing itself, and I did get a smaller belt 70.5, so my next step is to go back to the smog pulley. ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip,GT40 P heads, looking at new exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus.

05-04-2001, 12:56 AM	#5
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	I bought the Ford Racing smog idler and it works great. If i could do it again, i'd buy the ford one again. ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FRPP aluminum radiator & 180* t-stat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, FRPP smog pump idler [This message has been edited by 84stangLX (edited 05-04-2001).]

05-04-2001, 08:39 AM	#6
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	so then try a smaller belt..ive ran it b4 so i know it will work ------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch

05-04-2001, 09:05 AM	#7
QUIN Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Chillicothe, OH. Posts: 1,289	i agree with rick and lx. you dont need this kit. easiest way would be to drop the a/c and move the tensioner pully to that side (what i did). im sure i will miss the a/c soon, but i never used it anyway. (anyone want to buy and a/c converted to r134 or whatever the new stuff is?) if its rubbing now with a short belt, than try to adjust the tensioner pully. that pully is the key to adjusting the belt path. ------------------ Quin, 87 GT,306,forged pistons,edelbrock head\intak,steeda#18cam,1.7rr,MSD Blaster tfi coil,A9L,pro-m75mm,24#inj,accufab65mm,2.5"pipes,hooker headers,dynomax exhaust,3.73 gr,110 lph fp,180*therm,moroso cold air,ASP pullies, weld rims The beast has awoken! I see your shwartz is as big as mine, now lets see how well you handle it!

05-04-2001, 02:07 PM	#8
Violent84 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Shenandoah, Va Posts: 34	Another thing you can do is take your stock pump and gut it. That's what I did. All you have to do is pull the back off of it and bust out the little fiberglass fins that work off of the cam and presto. It'll still look stock w/o the possibility of power loss. Just a sugg. later, Violent ------------------ 84 GT-350, 2.5" Ram air hood, Centerline Pintails, 5-lug conversion, Recaro's, 140 speedo, 8.8 conversion, 3.73's, Motorsport A/C eliminator, Hurst shifter, ASP pulleys, Eibach pro kit, KYB's, Flowmaster exhaust, Long tubes, Flowtech off road h-pipe, .030 overbore, Extreme Energy 268, Ported stock heads, Pete Jackson Gear drive, Weiand Xcelerator intake, Max Motorsports aluminum rack bushings, 3-core radiator,and more to come!

05-04-2001, 03:48 PM	#9
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I have used the ford idler pulley, and although pricey, it is a quality piece and works well. Some people dont want belt issues, and would rather just run the idler pulley, this is understandable. I recently came across another way to do this, and it is the best ive seen yet, looks great, and it eliminates the entire alternater mounting bracket (that huge hunk of aluminum), the tensioner pulley, and the smog pump, and it leaves great clearance so you dont have belt rubbing problems(because it eliminates the tensioner entirely). It really cleans up the engine compartment and works well. It is March's alt. pulley kit, part no. 1465, and is around $58.00. ------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT

05-04-2001, 03:58 PM	#10
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	another thing to try is to take off the tensioner and drill a new hole on the bracket that it mounts to drill it to where it will move the tensioner up (counterclockwise) this fixed my problem, the same thing was heppening to me, its still a little close but it will be ok with the next smaller belt, hope this helps ------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rockers,intake or ported heads

05-07-2001, 12:57 PM	#11
1985Mustang Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Knoxville Posts: 20	There is no need for any of that. Get an 84.5 or 85" long belt, and reroute it around the crank and water pump so that it makes an "S" shape. Then it will not hit the tensioner and everything still spins the right direction. ------------------ 1985 Mustang GT Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 carb, 9mm FMS wires, 15^ timing, no smog pump, 8.8 w/3.08

05-07-2001, 04:18 PM	#12
red82gt Sober voice of Reason Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada Posts: 1,514	1985mustang is right, from the crank, go clockwise around and run the belt up to the alternator, under the tensioner, over the A/C compressor, over the power steering, to the top of the water pump and around back to the crank, if you've got A/C the belt needed is the belt used for cars without A/C. This way the belt turns everything the right way and you even get more "wrap" around the pulleys than the stock routing. So simple, yet so many people don't see it. ------------------ GT-40 heads (ported, polished, + milled), B303 cam, 1.7rr's, JE pistons, Offy intake, Carter AFB 625cfm carb, Flowtech 1 5/8" shortys, Flowtech X-pipe, MAC Flowpath exhaust, MAC pulleys, 373's, subframes, Eibachs+Tokicos, B+M ripper, FMS Clutch, Zoom Quadrant+cable, 17" CSA Ultra rims, 235/45ZR17 Yokohama AVS S4's, MSD 6A ignition+coil, FMS 9mm wires, Carbed, Naturally Aspirated, and Nasty!