solid motor mounts

Gonzo GT · 07-08-2001, 07:44 PM

Anybody ever use solid motormounts on a stick car with slicks ? Like em or waste of time and money?

WADS56 · 07-09-2001, 01:34 AM

I have the ASP solid motor mounts. All I can say is that they are strong. My K-member cracked in two places on the drivers side where the mount bolts up.

------------------
347 W/ A-trim 6#'s, Canfield heads, out of the box Victor 5.0 intake, solid roller cam. 11.1 @123mph 1.46 60FT

93lx 5.0 daily driver
MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288

elmir50 · 07-09-2001, 04:43 AM

I have read if you're engine is making over 400 hp then you should not use solid mounts. During a drag launch, trmendous stress will be put on left side of the engine block. The stress can destroy the block and cylinder walls, causing blow by or even a blown head gasket.

07-09-2001, 08:05 AM

This doesn't sound good!!

Solid motor mounts flexing the side of the block!? What tha!

I just put solid motor mounts and a solid tranny mount and I know my motor is making close to maybe more then 400hp....YIKES!!

Everyone told me that solids were the way to go, I really don't like the idea of having to swap them out.

Now, I did but extra bracing on the front of the motor and attached it to the where the sway bar use to bolt up, maybe that will help keep the mounts from taking all of the abuse. Anyone have any thoughts on this????

Thanks,
James

07-09-2001, 08:06 AM

Sorry for all the poor grammer in my above post. Typed it in a very big rush.

1BAD89 · 07-09-2001, 06:39 PM

Don't the hardcore drag racers and the faster guys use solid motor mounts?

07-09-2001, 06:51 PM

my understanding of the 'solid' mount theory is: it is easier to transfer the torque through your motor to your frame, thus creating more torque to the rear wheels....

in a weak situation, something is going to break... so if your using solid mounts in a stang, everything else 'better' be solid or you'll have a problem (and it wont be limited to the motor)..

we used to run solid mounts with turnbuckles connected to the frame, talk about torque transfer...

just my .02

------------------
Black,84 GT,ground effects,shorty headers, 'open' dual exh.,302 HO(no pollution control crap),T5,89 ported heads,edelbrock Performer manifold, Edelbrock 2122 cam,600 Holley, high volume oil pump...

gears (4:10's) coming soon. N2O, soon to follow!!!

elmir50 · 07-10-2001, 12:32 AM

The problem with high horsepower engines and solid motor mounts is that the stress created by a drag launch is transferred just through the motor mounts. This is why it can cause damage. You notice how all big power drag cars have a aluminum front block plate that the engine bolts to and then the aluminum plate is attached to the car. The purpose of this type of engine mount is to spread the twisting torque of the engine over a much wider area. The pulling force on the left side of the block and the compression force on the right side of the block will distort cylinder walls, causing a loss of ring seal and power.

You guys also mentioned that you have additional bracing besides the engine mounts. This is just another way of spreading the stress created by a launch. Yes it does help spread the twisting torque over a wider area. A torque strap from the front of the block will also provide better distribution of the stress.

Gonzo GT · 07-13-2001, 09:36 PM

Thanks for all the info on the solid motor mounts. I 'll definitley take it all into consideration.

rtz · 07-15-2001, 01:31 AM

Yeah, I was going to get some solid motor mounts too till I read this. :/

Guess I'll just run vert mounts or those polyurethane ones now.

elmir50 · 07-15-2001, 05:53 PM

Guys,

I would reccommend the convertible mounts to use on your cars. I got a pair of these from my local ford dealership and they look pretty good. They are much stronger then the stock mounts. I'll let you guys know how they work in a month.

Stang Runner · 07-15-2001, 06:15 PM

I dont ever run Drag tires Should I get rid of my Steel mounts I and Get new Heads & Intake. Would 400HP be to much for my car??? My freinds car eats U-joints and he thinks it is the mounts and the tranny just went out on him now.

------------------
1988 LX 5.0 Was 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.65@101.3 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 3.55, World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Adjustable Cluch Cable, AL Driveshaft, Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks
Engine: Steal Mounts, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back Cooling:3 Core Radiator

elmir50 · 07-16-2001, 01:29 AM

It's recommended that if you are producing 400 or more horsepower then you should stay away from the solid mounts.

07-16-2001, 08:30 AM

If I had to do it over again, I would go with the Energy Mounts, they look strong but still able to absorb some punishment. For the time being I will continue to run my solids, along with the extra front bracing on the motor. I believe you should also take into account, anytime you stiffen the ride or connection from the motor's torque to the frame of the car, you risk uncovering another weak spot on the frame of these cars. Most people have seen what the Torque boxes look like on many mustangs after years of drag racing, very expensive to fix if you don't catch it intime.

I can definitly say, from dragracing perspective, I love the solids. That instant transfer of torque is great.

-James

07-08-2001, 07:44 PM	#1
Gonzo GT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Homestead Pa USA Posts: 21	solid motor mounts Anybody ever use solid motormounts on a stick car with slicks ? Like em or waste of time and money?

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07-09-2001, 01:34 AM	#2
WADS56 gear banger Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: CHICAGO Posts: 1,144	I have the ASP solid motor mounts. All I can say is that they are strong. My K-member cracked in two places on the drivers side where the mount bolts up. ------------------ 347 W/ A-trim 6#'s, Canfield heads, out of the box Victor 5.0 intake, solid roller cam. 11.1 @123mph 1.46 60FT 93lx 5.0 daily driver MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288

07-09-2001, 04:43 AM	#3
elmir50 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada Posts: 413	I have read if you're engine is making over 400 hp then you should not use solid mounts. During a drag launch, trmendous stress will be put on left side of the engine block. The stress can destroy the block and cylinder walls, causing blow by or even a blown head gasket.

07-09-2001, 08:05 AM	#4
stanglx347 Guest Posts: n/a	This doesn't sound good!! Solid motor mounts flexing the side of the block!? What tha! I just put solid motor mounts and a solid tranny mount and I know my motor is making close to maybe more then 400hp....YIKES!! Everyone told me that solids were the way to go, I really don't like the idea of having to swap them out. Now, I did but extra bracing on the front of the motor and attached it to the where the sway bar use to bolt up, maybe that will help keep the mounts from taking all of the abuse. Anyone have any thoughts on this???? Thanks, James

07-09-2001, 08:06 AM	#5
stanglx347 Guest Posts: n/a	Sorry for all the poor grammer in my above post. Typed it in a very big rush.

07-09-2001, 06:39 PM	#6
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	Don't the hardcore drag racers and the faster guys use solid motor mounts?

07-09-2001, 06:51 PM	#7
jerryIII Guest Posts: n/a	my understanding of the 'solid' mount theory is: it is easier to transfer the torque through your motor to your frame, thus creating more torque to the rear wheels.... in a weak situation, something is going to break... so if your using solid mounts in a stang, everything else 'better' be solid or you'll have a problem (and it wont be limited to the motor).. we used to run solid mounts with turnbuckles connected to the frame, talk about torque transfer... just my .02 ------------------ Black,84 GT,ground effects,shorty headers, 'open' dual exh.,302 HO(no pollution control crap),T5,89 ported heads,edelbrock Performer manifold, Edelbrock 2122 cam,600 Holley, high volume oil pump... gears (4:10's) coming soon. N2O, soon to follow!!!

07-10-2001, 12:32 AM	#8
elmir50 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada Posts: 413	The problem with high horsepower engines and solid motor mounts is that the stress created by a drag launch is transferred just through the motor mounts. This is why it can cause damage. You notice how all big power drag cars have a aluminum front block plate that the engine bolts to and then the aluminum plate is attached to the car. The purpose of this type of engine mount is to spread the twisting torque of the engine over a much wider area. The pulling force on the left side of the block and the compression force on the right side of the block will distort cylinder walls, causing a loss of ring seal and power. You guys also mentioned that you have additional bracing besides the engine mounts. This is just another way of spreading the stress created by a launch. Yes it does help spread the twisting torque over a wider area. A torque strap from the front of the block will also provide better distribution of the stress.

07-13-2001, 09:36 PM	#9
Gonzo GT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Homestead Pa USA Posts: 21	Thanks for all the info on the solid motor mounts. I 'll definitley take it all into consideration.

07-15-2001, 01:31 AM	#10
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	Yeah, I was going to get some solid motor mounts too till I read this. :/ Guess I'll just run vert mounts or those polyurethane ones now.

07-15-2001, 05:53 PM	#11
elmir50 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada Posts: 413	Guys, I would reccommend the convertible mounts to use on your cars. I got a pair of these from my local ford dealership and they look pretty good. They are much stronger then the stock mounts. I'll let you guys know how they work in a month.

07-15-2001, 06:15 PM	#12
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	I dont ever run Drag tires Should I get rid of my Steel mounts I and Get new Heads & Intake. Would 400HP be to much for my car??? My freinds car eats U-joints and he thinks it is the mounts and the tranny just went out on him now. ------------------ 1988 LX 5.0 Was 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.65@101.3 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 3.55, World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Adjustable Cluch Cable, AL Driveshaft, Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks Engine: Steal Mounts, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back Cooling:3 Core Radiator

07-16-2001, 01:29 AM	#13
elmir50 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada Posts: 413	It's recommended that if you are producing 400 or more horsepower then you should stay away from the solid mounts.

07-16-2001, 08:30 AM	#14
stanglx347 Guest Posts: n/a	If I had to do it over again, I would go with the Energy Mounts, they look strong but still able to absorb some punishment. For the time being I will continue to run my solids, along with the extra front bracing on the motor. I believe you should also take into account, anytime you stiffen the ride or connection from the motor's torque to the frame of the car, you risk uncovering another weak spot on the frame of these cars. Most people have seen what the Torque boxes look like on many mustangs after years of drag racing, very expensive to fix if you don't catch it intime. I can definitly say, from dragracing perspective, I love the solids. That instant transfer of torque is great. -James