Solid roller cam?

[Five0]

How much is involved in changing to solid roller cam and is there a way to do it so you do not have to readjust the rockers all the time with the solid roller?

Is it worth the money to change?

[Unit 5302]

The cam robs way more power than you'd ever think. Going to a roller setup will give you more horsepower, but I can't advise you on your other questions.

[Five0]

The cam I have now is hydraulic roller and I called comp cams and they said that I will get a big increase in power with the solid roller setup but I am curious how hard the swap is and does anything have to be changed. I am looking to turn about 7000 to 7500 rpm's.

[WADS56]

I'm running a solid roller in my 347. It was kind of expensive to change over from a hydraulic setup. A solid cam puts allot more stress on the valve train so it is recomended to install much stronger parts. One peice chromoly pushrods, titanium locks and retainers, and a good strong valve. You will also need to get a new set of springs for the cam. If you are looking to spin it 7500rpm I would spend the money.

[Five0]

Does anything have to be grinded or machined? The guy at comp cams told me that you have to machine something where the lifters go?

Also did it make a big difference in performance?
What about the sound? I could care less about how it sounds but I am curious.

[Five0]

How high do you spin your motor and what are your cam specs?

Thanks

[Dark Knight]

what else do you have done to the car? if everything else is close to stock, there is no point in going to a solid roller.. it wont work with pedestal mount heads and you WILL have to adjust the valves every so often... more frequently if you plan on driving it every day...
FWIW, the lifters are a couple hundred, and solid roller cams cost a bit more since they're billet...

ok, I looked at what you have done.. you'd probably need to lose the 1.7's... probably better valve springs.. and the titanium retainers.. soldid rollers rev WAY quicker than a Hyd. roller..you could probably use a victor jr. intake too...you might look into a pro-form main body for that 750 too... summit has them down to $99 now ;-)

I had a solid roller in my 289 in the 68 stang, 272*/282* @ .050 lift, .640 total lift... 8k RPM wsa normal.. had it to 8600 a few times..

[Dark Knight]

BTW, isnt that cam a little small for a 347? I'd think it would be better in a 302-306... personally, I'd get a hold of flow tech induction and let them recomend and maybe custom grind a cam for you.. give them the engine specs and what you want the car to do... way better than an off the shelf cam.. ;-)

[WADS56]

Originally posted by Five0
How high do you spin your motor and what are your cam specs?

Thanks

I'm not exactly sure on the cam specs,

int. ex.
.662 .668
252 256 @.50
114 lobe sep.

It is a blower cam but I am now rinning N.A. I shift at 6800.
My best time on the motor is a 11.9 granny shifting at 5900 rpm with a lame 1.8 60 ft. That was the only run I got in before the rear end blew. It has a low 11 or high 10 in it

[Dark Knight]

as for the machine work... are the lifter bores in the roller cam blocks smaller than the earlier hyd. cams? or maybe the bores are taller? not sure in that... ask 'em why next time ;-)

[Five0]

OK when I talked to comp cams they told me that I would need to grind down the place where the bar on the lifters are or it won't clear but I have never heard of this and I may have misunderstood what he was talking about.

I already have a Vic Jr sitting around but went back to the performer rpm until I get another cam that will take advantage of it.

I planed to get a solid roller cam, solid roller lifters, 1.6 roller rockers with 7/16" stud (chromemoly steel pro magnum), stud girdle, and springs.

I have already got good valves and keepers (I just had them changed).

I know the cam I have now is too small, it was the cam I used before I got the 347 but have not had the money to change it yet.

The specs on the cam the told me I need are:

242/248 duration @.050
614/621 lift
110 lba
Cam specs

They have a price for the cam, springs, and lifters for 792.95 and 289.00 for the rockers. I will also need different pushrods, I think.

[Five0]

He also said with that cam I would probably want to shift around 7000 to 7500 rpm's.

[Five0]

Originally posted by Five0
Does anything have to be grinded or machined? The guy at comp cams told me that you have to machine something where the lifters go?

Also did it make a big difference in performance?
What about the sound? I could care less about how it sounds but I am curious.

Anyone else?

[WADS56]

I did not have to do any grinding on the lifter valley to make them fit. I know what he is talking about though, every two lifters are connected together with a bar. Mine came close but some people may have problems.

As far as valvetrain noise go's mine is loud. I know it is adjusted right so that is not the problem. When I am under the hood and it is idileing it's real loud. When I rev and hold it at 2000rpm it will rattle your ears. I have a gear drive though, so that adds to the noise. Think about it... You set preload on a hydrolic cam so there is no room for the rockers to slap around. On a solid cam you adjust the valve lash around .025 when hot so you will get a constand 16 smacks at rapid fire when the engine is on.

[Five0]

Thanks for the help.

Did you notice a big difference in power with the solid roller?