MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums - View Single Post - Solid, Hydraulic, Roller, Non-Roller... Pros and Cons

2FastLX · 12-19-2001, 12:33 AM

I think this guy was trying to say dollar for dollar the roller wouldn't make as much of a difference in power as it would if I'd put the money somewhere else. You're talking $400 for the conversion kit, then $200-$325 for the cam as opposed to about $250 for cam and lifters if I went flat tappet.

After talking to Ed Curtis tonight on the phone he recommended I go with the Crane roller conversion lifters and he likes them over any other roller conversion option. He convinced me to spend the extra money which is better for a low maintenance application.

Thanks guys.

12-19-2001, 12:33 AM	#6
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	I think this guy was trying to say dollar for dollar the roller wouldn't make as much of a difference in power as it would if I'd put the money somewhere else. You're talking $400 for the conversion kit, then $200-$325 for the cam as opposed to about $250 for cam and lifters if I went flat tappet. After talking to Ed Curtis tonight on the phone he recommended I go with the Crane roller conversion lifters and he likes them over any other roller conversion option. He convinced me to spend the extra money which is better for a low maintenance application. Thanks guys. __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241