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Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
PS - I didn't know you were into black girls....lol
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Neither did I!
Okay, so many questions to answer.
First, your starting problem is text book for a fuel system problem. See, when the engine is warm, there is still some pressure, and the engine needs less to start, since it's already "warmed up". The following morning, or any point after say 8 hours or more, the engine has completely cooled, requiring more fuel to start, and the pressure in the system is absolute zero. Thus, hard cold starts.
The letter you shared only confirms what I'm saying in general, but not specifically to you. The point that he made was that because of no check valve, the system doesn't remain pressurized, but the check valve is in the pump, not the regulator. If fuel is going to the tank via the return line after the key is off, it's because the regulator is bad. If it's going back via the supply line, then it's a problem with the pump/check valve.
He is right that race cars don't usually require a check valve, but you car is driven on the street, for distances longer than 1/4 mile, and hopefully for more than 10 or 20 miles in it's lifetime. If your fuel pump and pickup assembly are all aftermarket, and you're sure they don't have any kind of check valve, then that's the cause of your hard starting problem that is slowly but surely eating up your bearings.
I don't recall if I had you check to see which path the fuel was taking when your pressure dropped, but if we already did this, and you determined that the fuel was going back to the tank through the supply line, then forget about the regulator. But, I'd look into a check valve, or a new pump that has one. "Race" parts are often not very healthy for a street driven vehicle, and for the street, you want the system to maintain pressure after the pump is off.
On to the next post...
Fuel pressure is often referred to by it's WOT pressure, because that is the only constant among engines (vacuum will be zero at WOT). The vacuum can fluctuate at idle, and between different vehicles, so the idle setting needs to be vehicle specific. It is almost always better to set the pressure at WOT. In your case, I would say 33 psi at idle sounds about right. Your injectors are too large, IMO, so you need to run lower than normal pressure to keep from flooding it. As long as you are not fuel starved at WOT, then set it at 39 psi with the vacuum line disconnected. better yet, jump the fuel pump wire in your self test connector to ground, and set the pressure to 39 psi with the engine off.
Sooooo, yes, you've been rich this whole time. The negative effects are clogged cats if you have any, and diluted oil. Change the oil and filter right away, and keep an eye on things.
Take care,
~Chris