Stang_ROTY's project status

Stang_ROTY · 07-26-2001, 03:19 PM

So far I can get the car to fire only if I give her some gas (don't necessarily need to floor it). She'll run as long as I keep feeding her fuel. But once I take my foot of the gas, she dies quick. I have no check engine lights on. The engine is REAL hot and boiled over without the rad. cap on using only water as collant. Also, my engine builder complained of getting shocked as he held the TB open and touched the fender which says to me a ground problem. These are the main problem keeping me from taking the car for it's first ride. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated! My combination is below.

A blueprinted and balanced '69 351W block bored and stroked to 393 cubes with a SCAT crank, SRP forged pistons @ 10.5/1 compression. I'm using Edelbrock Performer heads w/2.02 valve, Performer RPM upper intake mounted on a Edelbrock 5.8 truck lower manifold. The fuel injectors are 30lb. FRPP and I have a Pro-M 75MM MAF sensor calibrated for the injectors. The spark is powered by MSD 6AL box with rev limiters. Throttle body is a 70MM BBK piece and I am not running any cooling lines to it. Nor do I have a smog pump. Headers are BBK 351W swap and cats/H-pipe are BBK 2 1/2 going inot Flowmasters. Cooling system is a Fluidyne radiator with a black magic electric fan. ALthough it's not installed right now, I'm using a 195 degree thermostat.

Sensors-I used the ACT sensor between runner 5 and 6 and an ECT sensor which is plugged into the thermostat housing. The ECT sensor wouldn't fit into the manifold itself. Currently, the only open plug on the EFI harness is for the cannister purge which I don't need. I also have the sensors plugged into the TB and the EGR spacer.

------------------
Finally DONE!!
93 GT, 393 stroker w/ Edlebrock Performer heads and EFI, 30lb injectors, Dynamic Roller Mite C4, 8 pt cage, Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, 3.73's, '69 351W block w/SCAT crank.

Coupe Devil · 07-26-2001, 04:12 PM

Glad to hear it's finally running. I'm anxios to see some times and dyno #'s. I would say you are making some serious power. If only you added a blower and maybe a 150 shot, DAMN thats some power. Feel the tension man what a ride. When you get it broke in take it to the track and get some #'s. Sounds fast.

------------------
'93 lx 4 banger, wrecked '90 lx 5.0, w/ t-5. .030 over fully ported and polihed (did that just to see if I could-first attempt at it).

Cocked, locked and ready to rock

Pony Power Forever

MiracleMax · 07-26-2001, 06:29 PM

Is your throttle bypass valve set correctly?

Unplug the bypass valve then set your idle with the throttlebody set screw, and plug the bypass back in (having trouble with the actual name, IAC or whatever you call it). Once you've set your idle then set the TPS.

Is the ignition timing correct? try fiddling with the distributor to see if you can get it to idle, if you can then set the timing and go for the idle adjustment.

jimberg · 07-26-2001, 07:04 PM

Set your idle screw by backing it out until you can slip a .010" feeler gauge between the end of the screw and the stop plate. Tighten screw until you can feel a little tension when you move the gauge. Remove the gauge and turn the screw in another 1 1/2 turns.

The throttle adjustment screw is down by where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body.

It should be able to idle at this point. If it doesn't, it sounds like the IAB is probably bad or not hooked up correctly (or electrical problem as you potentinally may have).

Do you have that big ground strap hooked up to the engine block? Ground wire going from battery to block?

Have you pulled the codes from the computer to see what it may be complaining about?

Thanks for starting the new topic.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

Stang_ROTY · 07-26-2001, 11:59 PM

Got her to idle tonight! Made a small adjustment to the tb linkage and she was all set. But it started to smoke a little out of the pass. tailpipe. My engine builder wasn't around when I noticed it so I shut it down real quick. What was it? Also, how much damage does idling a fresh flat tappet cam do the overall peformance? How should I rev it to break it in?

MiracleMax · 07-27-2001, 11:01 PM

New exhaust system? As things heat up they'll smoke a bit.

for a flat tappet cam, you'll want to get it up and running while varying the engine speed, 1300-2000 rpm is the range I think? anywhosit, don't let the engine just idle while your breaking in the cam, call your engine builder and see what they reccomend, or call your camshaft supplier and see thier recomendations, if its down a half day thats better than a day or two pulling a worn cam

Stang_ROTY · 07-28-2001, 01:06 AM

Took the car for its first ride tonight and she was running real hot. Stock Temp. gauge was running in the middle part of normal for the first time. I also hear a squeaking when I get on the throttle which I think is vac. leak. Seems as if she's running lean too. Do you think I should try the chip I got from JMS??

jimberg · 07-28-2001, 08:46 AM

Get all your vacuum leaks buttoned up before you even try a chip.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

Stang_ROTY · 07-28-2001, 09:25 AM

jimberg- where does your enginge run as far as temp. is concerned? During my first ride last night she got hotter than my old 87 5.0 ever did. The dummy gaue in the dash was reading on the high side of the normal area, but not near the red line. It seems as if the pullys don't charge or cool as well as stock pulleys. I'm going to look into the potential vc. leaks I have as well before I put the chip in. What do you suggest to use, WD40 on the manifold and look for air bubbles?? Sounds like a whistling sound when I hit the gas.

jimberg · 07-28-2001, 01:00 PM

You have the whistling BBK throttle body which is what I have, too. Mine whistles when I take my foot off the throttle, though. I've been told that that is the sound of the air rushing through the air bypass valve. Hook up a vacuum gauge to see what your idle vacuum is. Mine, with an E303 cam, is 12" of Hg. You can try to pinch off vacuum lines coming from the intake manifold to see if it rises.

When I'm driving on the highway, my temp stays at about the second notch from the bottom. I have a 180 degree thermostat and that's about what it stays at I would guess. If it's really hot outside and I do a lot of stop and go driving, the needle will go about horizontal.

If you're not using a thermostat at all, expect the temp to rise since you aren't holding the water in the radiator long enough to let it cool off.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

Stang_ROTY · 07-28-2001, 01:14 PM

Thanks Jimberg. Sounds to me like I have a cooling problem due to the underdrive pulleys I put on. I also think I'm going to need a more powerful alternator. I'm going to try the 180 degree thermo right now. I'll let you know how things work out after i install the good gauges tonight.

07-26-2001, 03:19 PM	#1
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Stang_ROTY's project status So far I can get the car to fire only if I give her some gas (don't necessarily need to floor it). She'll run as long as I keep feeding her fuel. But once I take my foot of the gas, she dies quick. I have no check engine lights on. The engine is REAL hot and boiled over without the rad. cap on using only water as collant. Also, my engine builder complained of getting shocked as he held the TB open and touched the fender which says to me a ground problem. These are the main problem keeping me from taking the car for it's first ride. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated! My combination is below. A blueprinted and balanced '69 351W block bored and stroked to 393 cubes with a SCAT crank, SRP forged pistons @ 10.5/1 compression. I'm using Edelbrock Performer heads w/2.02 valve, Performer RPM upper intake mounted on a Edelbrock 5.8 truck lower manifold. The fuel injectors are 30lb. FRPP and I have a Pro-M 75MM MAF sensor calibrated for the injectors. The spark is powered by MSD 6AL box with rev limiters. Throttle body is a 70MM BBK piece and I am not running any cooling lines to it. Nor do I have a smog pump. Headers are BBK 351W swap and cats/H-pipe are BBK 2 1/2 going inot Flowmasters. Cooling system is a Fluidyne radiator with a black magic electric fan. ALthough it's not installed right now, I'm using a 195 degree thermostat. Sensors-I used the ACT sensor between runner 5 and 6 and an ECT sensor which is plugged into the thermostat housing. The ECT sensor wouldn't fit into the manifold itself. Currently, the only open plug on the EFI harness is for the cannister purge which I don't need. I also have the sensors plugged into the TB and the EGR spacer. ------------------ Finally DONE!! 93 GT, 393 stroker w/ Edlebrock Performer heads and EFI, 30lb injectors, Dynamic Roller Mite C4, 8 pt cage, Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, 3.73's, '69 351W block w/SCAT crank.

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07-26-2001, 04:12 PM	#2
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	Glad to hear it's finally running. I'm anxios to see some times and dyno #'s. I would say you are making some serious power. If only you added a blower and maybe a 150 shot, DAMN thats some power. Feel the tension man what a ride. When you get it broke in take it to the track and get some #'s. Sounds fast. ------------------ '93 lx 4 banger, wrecked '90 lx 5.0, w/ t-5. .030 over fully ported and polihed (did that just to see if I could-first attempt at it). Cocked, locked and ready to rock Pony Power Forever

07-26-2001, 06:29 PM	#3
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	Is your throttle bypass valve set correctly? Unplug the bypass valve then set your idle with the throttlebody set screw, and plug the bypass back in (having trouble with the actual name, IAC or whatever you call it). Once you've set your idle then set the TPS. Is the ignition timing correct? try fiddling with the distributor to see if you can get it to idle, if you can then set the timing and go for the idle adjustment.

07-26-2001, 07:04 PM	#4
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	Set your idle screw by backing it out until you can slip a .010" feeler gauge between the end of the screw and the stop plate. Tighten screw until you can feel a little tension when you move the gauge. Remove the gauge and turn the screw in another 1 1/2 turns. The throttle adjustment screw is down by where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body. It should be able to idle at this point. If it doesn't, it sounds like the IAB is probably bad or not hooked up correctly (or electrical problem as you potentinally may have). Do you have that big ground strap hooked up to the engine block? Ground wire going from battery to block? Have you pulled the codes from the computer to see what it may be complaining about? Thanks for starting the new topic. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

07-26-2001, 11:59 PM	#5
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Got her to idle tonight! Made a small adjustment to the tb linkage and she was all set. But it started to smoke a little out of the pass. tailpipe. My engine builder wasn't around when I noticed it so I shut it down real quick. What was it? Also, how much damage does idling a fresh flat tappet cam do the overall peformance? How should I rev it to break it in?

07-27-2001, 11:01 PM	#6
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	New exhaust system? As things heat up they'll smoke a bit. for a flat tappet cam, you'll want to get it up and running while varying the engine speed, 1300-2000 rpm is the range I think? anywhosit, don't let the engine just idle while your breaking in the cam, call your engine builder and see what they reccomend, or call your camshaft supplier and see thier recomendations, if its down a half day thats better than a day or two pulling a worn cam

07-28-2001, 01:06 AM	#7
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Took the car for its first ride tonight and she was running real hot. Stock Temp. gauge was running in the middle part of normal for the first time. I also hear a squeaking when I get on the throttle which I think is vac. leak. Seems as if she's running lean too. Do you think I should try the chip I got from JMS??

07-28-2001, 08:46 AM	#8
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	Get all your vacuum leaks buttoned up before you even try a chip. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

07-28-2001, 09:25 AM	#9
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	jimberg- where does your enginge run as far as temp. is concerned? During my first ride last night she got hotter than my old 87 5.0 ever did. The dummy gaue in the dash was reading on the high side of the normal area, but not near the red line. It seems as if the pullys don't charge or cool as well as stock pulleys. I'm going to look into the potential vc. leaks I have as well before I put the chip in. What do you suggest to use, WD40 on the manifold and look for air bubbles?? Sounds like a whistling sound when I hit the gas.

07-28-2001, 01:00 PM	#10
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	You have the whistling BBK throttle body which is what I have, too. Mine whistles when I take my foot off the throttle, though. I've been told that that is the sound of the air rushing through the air bypass valve. Hook up a vacuum gauge to see what your idle vacuum is. Mine, with an E303 cam, is 12" of Hg. You can try to pinch off vacuum lines coming from the intake manifold to see if it rises. When I'm driving on the highway, my temp stays at about the second notch from the bottom. I have a 180 degree thermostat and that's about what it stays at I would guess. If it's really hot outside and I do a lot of stop and go driving, the needle will go about horizontal. If you're not using a thermostat at all, expect the temp to rise since you aren't holding the water in the radiator long enough to let it cool off. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

07-28-2001, 01:14 PM	#11
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Thanks Jimberg. Sounds to me like I have a cooling problem due to the underdrive pulleys I put on. I also think I'm going to need a more powerful alternator. I'm going to try the 180 degree thermo right now. I'll let you know how things work out after i install the good gauges tonight.