starting problem
 

I've got a 93 5.0 that has a hard time starting when it is warmed up, i have to pump the gas a couple of times to get it to fire and establish an idle. Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks

The TFI modules are common for hard starts when the get hot. If you know someone with a spare or is willing to swap with you, you could find out. Good luck.

Thanks for the tip, I have heard a liitle about the TFI problems Ford was having. I always thought they were stalling problems, hopefully this will work. I'll give it a shot. I've tried everything else.

Thanks again.

Lethal50H
I did some checking on the net and found that if the TFI is the problem the engine will stall. That is not the case with my lx, it runs fine all the time. It is just it needs some help from the gas pedal to start when it is warm. Do you still think this could be the culprit?

Does anyone else have any ideas?
No bustin' intended Lethal50H.

I think I would put a timing light on #1 spark plug wire get it nice and warm and try to start it while holding the timing light trigger down. If it flashes then you know you have spark there and if it doesnt flash well then you have an ignition problem. If it doesnt flash then you will have to start looking at ignition components. One thing you do need to rule out before the TFI module is the hall effect sensor in the distributor. If you have an aftermarket tach and spliced into the coil wire that is the wire you need to check if has a ground all the time while cranking or it pulses. If it pulses then you know the hall effect sensor is good. The hall effect sensor is basically an magnetic switch that turns the coil on and off. Onto the TFI module. Electronic circuit boards over time do not like heat and vibration. IF you have adjusted timing to the point of which it is pointing at the thermostat housing this is bad for the TFI module because of the excessive heat and will shorten the lifespan because of it. TFI modules will do really interesting things while still working. There is really no way to test them that I am aware of. Buying a new one is not a bad idea because if it doesnt fix this problem you may end up needing it down the road sooner or later. After all that checks out good you need to start looking at fuel. Make sure you have at least 40lbs of fuel pressure when you first turn the key to the run position. One thing you can try is get the car warm and let it sit for awhile. Turn the key to the run position and back off 3, 4, or maybe 5 times before you start it. If it starts right away then you may have a fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump bleeding down to fast. Side note Aeromotive and Paxton fuel pressure regulators bleed down right away after you shut the car off. This is due to there design internally and is normal operation due to the fact that they do not have a check valve like a stock one does the ports are too large to have one and they feel its actually a restriction being there. Hope this helps. Keep us updated.


Brad

Thanks for all of the tips.
I think I am going to start with checking the fuel pressure. It seems to be more fuel related than ignition. The car is all stock for now, so that eliminates any screw ups I could have caused.

I'll keep ya posted!
Later

Keeping you posted, I replaced the Idle Air Control, I,ve run it for a day and noticed it is starting alot better when warm. I am hoping that was the problem. Now my only issue is it has a hard time establishing the idle at warm startup. It takes about five to ten seconds to establish an idle. Besides that she runs and idles fine. Any tips on what could be causing that. The throttle body is clean and no signs of vaccum leaks.
FYI, I assume that in startup mode the computer opens the valve to lean it out when starting warm. I guess this acts like the choke on a carb. There were no codes in the computer for the IAC being faulty, but replacing it seemed to help. Does anyone know if my assumption is correct?

Later
You know what they say about assuming!