Starting Problem

[stangnut]

I have an 83 Mustang G.T. 5.0 4 BBl. When cold car starts and runs fine, but when warmed up and shut off, it will start within a few minutes of shut down, but if it sits 10 min to 90 min it will not start. There is no spark. Have replaced key lock cylinder, battery, plugs, wires, coil, & duraspark. Any ideas? Can't take it anywhere, it leaves me everytime. Any help appreciated.

[bigwhitecobra]

OK here are some quick thoughts. What kind of distributor do you have? If by chance you have a Mallory, there is a good chance the Ignition Control Module is going bad....I should know I've had the same problem before and found out that was the case for me. Not too bad to replace it, but expect to run about $89.

If you have a Ford points style, good luck......I have no clue. Me and points system don't get along.

MSD ignition? Call customer service and they will walk you through the problem.....outside of these, it could be anything, but most likely sounds like a ICM problem. Hope this helps.

Later.

[rwhite65]

So I take it the car turns over, just totally loses spark? How did u figure this out? If you do have the Mallory set-up, when I had to replace my module, I also installed a piece they sell that is suppose to help it last. So far, no problems 4 years and running.
Ryan

[stangnut]

yes no spark, I pullled #1 plug wire and used spark tester. turns over but will not start. Plenty of fuel flooded it the first couple of times it happened. It does start to fire for a split sec. when I let the key go back to on. weird huh?

[Capri306]

Please read the sticky at the top of the Blue Oval Lounge.

Not trying to be rude, but this belongs in the Windsor Power Forum. Thanks.

Having said that, yeah, this is weird! I would double-check your connections @ the Duraspark module, and be SURE the grounds are EXCELLENT! Otherwise, it's just pulling too much current and will cause failure such as this. I can't stress that enough, as I have first-hand experience in the older Fox-bodies losing ground connections. After that, I would look at the ballast resistor wire that's in the dashboard (behind the instrument cluster). If that wire has burns or is shorting to ground, it'll cause ignition problems up the ying-yang; I've been in this situation, too! To identify this wire, it's a typically LONG-ARSE wire, red in color (as far as I have seen), and usually has the words, "RESISTOR WIRE" or something similar printed upon it in silver or black ink. I've pinched this wire between the steering wheel support brackets before, and it was pretty cool having a fireworks display with smoke right in front of me. One way to verify this type of problem is to check for battery voltage AT THE MODULE AND THE '+' SIDE OF THE COIL, whilst the ignition switch is in the "RUN" position. I assume you have a pinout of the Duraspark module, so you'll know where to check, right? Okay, moving on.....

The only other possibility I can come up with off the cuff is that maybe the ignition switch (NOT the cylinder) has problems. They've started more than a few Fords on fire.

[bigdaddy999]

it was already said, but i would try and start cheap with the ignition switch. I just had a similar problem, and it turned out to be the switch. it's about $10 at autozone.

[tarmon8r]

Now, if it begins to start while cranking and then doesnt after you release the key from the starting position, i would bet dollars to donuts its your ballast resistor. During cranking, your coil will recieve full power, but after starting, the circuit switches over and power is reduced by going threw the ballast resistor. A quick check is to bypass the ballast resistor with jumpers and see if it starts and runs.