Starting Problems
 

When I start the car, the starter sounds screwed. It almost sounds like it is missing gears on the flywheel and then catching, over and over again until it starts. Once it is warmed up, I get nothing when I turn the key to crank it, for at least a couple of tries. Then it finally turns over, and sounds the same as the cold start. I replace the starter 2 days ago, thinking that was the problem, and it is still there. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Caymon

Anybody???

I'm having trouble understanding your description.

Have you checked to make sure the teeth on the flywheel are all good? Are you sure you have the correct starter?

I have not checked the flywheel yet. The starter appears to be the same as the one that was on it already. I just started having this problem out of the blue a couple of weeks ago. I figured that it was just time to change the starter. So I did, and it didn't help at all. I don't think it is the flywheel because sometimes it (the starter) does ablolutely nothing when I turn the key. All the usual dash lights come on and the fuel pump primes, but it does nothing when you turn the key all the way over. Doesn't even make an attempt to start. When it does filally start, it almost sounds like the power to the starter is cutting in and out. How can you test the solenoid and/or a relay? Do they have a relay or just the solenoid? I apologize for the vague description, I don't know any other way to describe it. Thanks.
Caymon

Actually, that was a much better description.

it sounds to me like it's your clutch switch. Next time it "does nothing", make sure it's in neutral, and while holding the key in the start position, pump the clutch pedal rapidly, even side-stepping it if necessary, and see if it starts to catch at all. If it does, the problem is with the clutch switch, and it either needs to be adjusted or replaced (more than likely replaced).

Take care,
~Chris

Thanks Chris. I'll post the results tomorrow when I get back to work. I have no internet connection at home. I's just po white trash!!!;)
Caymon

BTW, what exactly is side-stepping the clutch pedal?

Popping the clutch. With the pedal depressed, move your foot to the side to release the pedal, rather than backing your foot off. If it is the switch, this jolting action may cause the switch to work just long enough to make the starter begin to crank. If it does, you know the switch is bad.

I did exactly what you said and I think it is the switch. I tried to find it and couldn't. I thought I did, and unplugged whatever it was, and it still cranked. I looked it up in the Chiltons, but it doesn't tell you where it is. There is a little something mounted next to the quadrant, but that's what I already unplugged. If anyone knows where it is, please enllighten me. Also, colors on the wires souldn't hurt. Thanks for the help.
Caymon

It should be at the very top of the clutch pedal.

The only thing I saw at the top of the clutch pedal was a grey plug with a (plastic) rod going through the back side. There was a peice of something around the rod about 1" from the free end. As you depress the clutch pedal, the free end of the "rod" would move in toward the plug, as though the pedal were pulling it. When you let off the pedal, it would come back out. On the other side of the plug, there were two plugs plugged into it. I couldn't get a very good look at it because of the back wrenching position I was in. Correct me if I am wrong, but, the clutch switch should only have 2 wires coming to and from it right? Can't you bypass the switch instead of replacing it? I'm sorry for the description, but that is the best I can do without a digital camera. The other plug I was talking about was on near the clutch quadrant above the gas pedal.

That's the right switch. There were minor changes over the years, but it should have one electrical connector with 3 wires going into it. All 3 wires will probably be red with a light blue or white tracer. Two wires will go to one side, and one wire to the other. Splice all 3 wires together to bypass the switch permanently.

Take care,
~Chris

Thanks so much. I'll check it out and let you know what happens. Do me a favor and check this out and let me know what you think please. Thanks again for the help.
Caymon

Icut the plug off and put all three wires together with a wirenut, and it is doing the same thing. Do you think it could be the solenoid? Thats the only other thing I can think of. Thanks for the suggestions.

Caymon

Not really. That's not what happens when a solenoid goes bad. What about the ignition switch?

You said you did exactly what I told you, and you thought it was the clutch switch. Why? What happened when you did what I told you to (pumping the pedal)?

When I was pumping the cluthc, after a couple of times, it would catch and turn over. When it would turn over, it would still sometimes sound like the power was going in and out, and sometimes it sounds like it is grinding almost., and sometimes it would sound like it should. I'm at a loss for words. I still have my truck to drive, but I don't want to get into the staging lanes at the track and not be able to start my car. If there's anything else you can think of, please throw it out there. I'm up for any suggestions right now. Thanks for the help.

Caymon

battery terminals tight and clean?

Yep. That's one of the first things I looked at. Thanks though. I have been known to do things like that in the past.
Caymon

Do this:

Attach the alligator clip end of your test light to the little wire that goes to the solenoid (unplug it from the solenoid), and wedge the pointer tip of the test light against the negative battery post.

Now try and start the car, but watch the test light. It won't make any noise at all, let alone start, but we don't care right now.

If everything inside your car is working properly, the test light will light up every time the key is in the start position. It should be as smooth as a household light switch. If it is, then replace the solenoid, if it flickers, or doesn't light up, it's in the ignition switch.

Take care,
~Chris

Thanks. I'll check it out and get back with you probably first thing in the morning when I get to work.
Caymon

So I tried what you said and here's how it went. The first 4 or 5 times it came on flawlessly. The next time or two it came on great and then started flickering. When it was flickering, I could hear what almost sounded like a relay clicking, with every flicker, under the dash. The next couple of times, I got no light. Then it was random. Sometimes perfect, sometimes flicker, sometimes nothing.:confused: What do you think? Thanks for the suggestion.
Caymon

Sounds like the ignition switch to me.

When you say ignition switch, is that actually where you put in the key and all associated wires, or just a part of that system?
Caymon

The switch, not the lock and tumbler. It's on the steering column, and is held in place with anti-theft screws.

Take care,
~Chris

Is that a dealer item or can I get that at O'reilley's? I'll probably replace it this weekend. I'll let you know the results. I appreciate all your help Chris.

Caymon

Should be available everywhere. try calling.

OK, so I've replaced everything I can think of except the lock & tumbler assembly, and it is still doing the same thing. I replaced the ignition switch and same thing. I thought about the solenoid and replaced it, same thing. The only other thing I can think of is maybe there is a short somewhere in the wiring between the steering column and the solenoid. If you have any other suggestions, please throw them out there. I'm up for anything now. Thanks for all your help so far.
Caymon

It has to be between the ignition switch and the solenoid, the test with the test light determined that. It's time for you to start inspecting the wiring, and look for frayed edges. Not fun, but necessary.

There is a wire on a harness under the dash near the ignition switch that is bare at the plug. The wire itself is silver not copper. It goes to a plug that resides about 3" from the switch. I'll try to take a pic on my lunch break at 11:00 and attach it. Let me know what you think after the pic. Thanks man.
Caymon

Here's the first one.

Here's another.

Yet another.

This one is to give you a better understanding of exactly where it is. What do ya think. It kind of looks like it is supposed to be like this, but I'm not sure.

I don't recognize it, but I don't think it's related. If I were you, I would make sure the tranny was in neutral, disconnect the coil, and while holding the key in the start position, investigate the wiring under the dash. Gently grab and jiggle some wires until it makes a difference, and then investigate. There is a bad connection somewhere between the ignition switch and the red/blue wire at the solenoid, and you're just going to have to try and find it. If you'd rather, you can unplug that wire from the solenoid, and jump it to your test light inside the car so that you don't have to drain the battery while testing by having the starter crank. Either way, you need to jiggle different wires until you find some that directly affect the starter wire when moved. Then go from there.