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stock connecting rod question?
I was wondering if it would be a good idea to reuse the stock rod bolts? I bought new arp rod bolts but now I don't want to spend a $100 getting them put in. Can I get by a year with the stockers. This is the first time the motor has been apart. Or am I asking for trouble. 92 stock shortblock,trickflow track heats,tfs stage2 cam,victor jr,650cfm,100shot...thanks......
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Re: stock connecting rod question?
I would not reuse them. It could end up costing you more in the long run if one of those heads snap off. Those bolts are stretched after torqued and if you use them again, they will stretch more and more likely to yield (snap). Just my opinion.
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Re: stock connecting rod question?
That's not the answer I was looking for. But I better quit being cheap. Spending money is the name of the game in this hobbie. :D
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Re: stock connecting rod question?
Agreed, ALWAYS go with new hardware, it's cheap insurance in the long run.
Rebuilding a motor without new hardware is like taking a crap then not wiping |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
Is it worth it to spend the $100 to have the new rod bolts put in my stock rods, or should I look into buying a new set?(so i'll have $150 in stock rods).
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Re: stock connecting rod question?
Theres nothing wrong with stock connecting rods. If you reuse the rods you HAVE to resize them. The big ends get egged shaped and new bearings will become egg shaped in a few miles.
I agree NEW bolts. But without resized rods/new rods, its a waste of time either way. So if its cost effective to get new rods with bolts that may be the way to go. |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
What rpm range are you expecting to run? Use new bolts for sure with the resized stock rods. Above 6000 rpm, I would suggest better than stock after market rods as well.
I use stock rods with Pioneer rod bolts, but I limit my rpms to 6000. Rev |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
Definately get the ARP bolts pressed in at your machine shop. They have to do a little bit of clearancing on the rod to get them to fit but it's worth it! One of weakest links in the small block ford is the puny stock rod bolts. The rod itself is pretty strong, but the bolts aren't. Make sure they aren't over-torqued either when you assemble them.
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Re: stock connecting rod question?
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Well, I brought them down to the machine shop with my pack of ARP bolts. He'll install the new hardware and resize them. I would be really pissed if I used the old hardware and something let go.
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Andy |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
Just wondering why an inside micrometer wouldn't pick up on the out of round big end? No experience or opiinion here, just wondering. I always have mine resized or new rods. Always get new bolts stock or after market depending on piston speed.
Rev |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
Well you probably could, but an inside mic just isnt the right tool for the job. The indicator thats built in to the rod reconditioner might spin halfway around if the rod is a half a thou out.
Andy |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
Rods will come new from the factory out of round, cranks and everthing else for that matter. Here lately Ive sent back two (brand new) 4.3L chebie cranks.
I have fixed many "good enuf" motors. I don't waste my time without a machine shop. No offense taken by anyone, we all do things our own way. |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
Andy you are correct that an inside mic is not really the right tool for the job. I don't work in an auto machine shop so an "indicator that is built into the rod reconditioner" is not exactly what I use but it is the same thing more or less. Let me say that I know you are not trying to pick a fight, while it is on my mind. I don't know you to be a smart a$$. Back to the point, You could use an inside mic but the results will be shady. Same goes for a telescoping gauge. A bore gauge would show the "ovalness" if it has the right indicator on it. Not one of those cheap a$$ ones you can get for $20. I use a bore gauge to check mine with and I have also indicated them just as you would on a rod reconditioner. I even check the distance between centers on my rods. A rod that is 1/2 thousandths out of round (.0005") will work just fine on a street car. But I would not want it in my racing engine.
Rev, an inside mic wouldn't really work because they only measure to the nearest tenth (.0001). You might measure it to be round but the next guy will say it is a half thousandths out. It's a "feel for it" kind of thing. And the other reason is because it would just plain take too long. |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
Asking my opinion, there is no choice. Rebuild your rods and use ARP bolts!!! Rebuilding your rods is just smart insurance. Cheap, easy and in my opinion a necessity, not a nicety. Definetly cheaper than redoing it over after a rod bolt let go. Especially with a little shot of N2O, because its so easy to turn up the wick after you get used to it. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You can do what you like, its your motor and money.
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However if you replace the rod bolts, they should be re-sized after pressing in the new bolts. Also check the price on a new set of rods http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...193&CtgID=3182 I bet that may be close to the price you will pay for the new bolts, and the labor to install/resize the rods. |
Re: stock connecting rod question?
I wish I would have known the price for new ones. I would have done just that. At times it seems a person could spend all day on these computers pricing one part out, and before you know it the whole day goes bye..I hate to complain, but the aftermarket is almost too big.
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Re: stock connecting rod question?
I would not suggest reusing rod bolts, you end up paying more for the problems that you could have than it would cost to get them installed.
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Re: stock connecting rod question?
This is some great dialog on the stock rods and bolts, and timely. I've got my parts gathered and I will start assembling it all shortly. I intend on using stock rods after shot peening them and have a set of the ARP-Pro Series rod bolts to hold it all together. In addition to whats being said, I would like to suggest having the rotating assembly balanced afterwards. I am also having a set of K&B .030 over pistions, and a new harmonic balance. For me I think it's rather manditory, but even just changing bolts could in theory change the balance. Just my two cents worth.
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